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Nothing else matters if primary clutches won't stay on our sleds

I keep preaching to Lap your P22 to the crank end.... torque to min. 140 ft lbs...the stock 85 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs is not enough!!! Lapping is critical as well...make s abetter seat on the clutch and crank....takes 5 min..I have a video on my instagram on how....not had a customer have one fall of that did that!!!
If only we could get the Polaris assembly team to adopt your procedure?
 
they don’t improve quality because at least in part, people keep buying them. I’d like for them to pull their heads out of their asses because I’d like to buy one at some point.
 
I keep preaching to Lap your P22 to the crank end.... torque to min. 140 ft lbs...the stock 85 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs is not enough!!! Lapping is critical as well...make s abetter seat on the clutch and crank....takes 5 min..I have a video on my instagram on how....not had a customer have one fall of that did that!!!
Whats your instagram
 
It kept cool enough but think it will be like every other sled in icy conditions. Curious to see polaris in really icy conditions because 24 scratchers work stellar
Rode icy trails Saturday. 2 Boost 165's A 23 and a 24. The 24 was way cooler than the 23. The 24 scratchers are much better and was similar temp to the 24 Doo with the snowflap on.
 
Rode icy trails Saturday. 2 Boost 165's A 23 and a 24. The 24 was way cooler than the 23. The 24 scratchers are much better and was similar temp to the 24 Doo with the snowflap on.
Put 24 scratchers on my wife's 23 9r.
Also tried bleeding brakes on 24s. Didn't change a thing.
 
If only we could get the Polaris assembly team to adopt your procedure?
they did send out a solid clutch bolt and tell the dealers to torque to 150 Ft lbs and then take it out and install the stock bolt torque are 110. ft lbs...no need the stock bolt will take 150 ft lbs. grade 8 bolt... OR just send out solid shaft clutch bolts!!!!! keep at 150....I talk with Polaris all the time.
 
they did send out a solid clutch bolt and tell the dealers to torque to 150 Ft lbs and then take it out and install the stock bolt torque are 110. ft lbs...no need the stock bolt will take 150 ft lbs. grade 8 bolt... OR just send out solid shaft clutch bolts!!!!! keep at 150....I talk with Polaris all the time.

Stock Polaris clutch bolt isn’t solid? Is it aluminum?


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what are the thoughts on Ti bolts? yes, no? issues with warranty if the clutch granades?
torque spec on them?
 
Stock Polaris clutch bolt isn’t solid? Is it aluminum?


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I think he's referring to the shank - the way the clutch bolt necks down on the standard clutch bolt. I'm not sure why they're that way, but they all are. There's another bolt Polaris sent to dealers with a straight shank down to the threads; I saw a picture in another thread, but can't remember which one. By the way, I totally agree this isn't a place for Ti. Ti clutch cover bolts are potentially a good investment because it's not highly stressed and they're out on the periphery of the clutch, so they make a much bigger contribution to rotating inertia. The clutch bolt makes very little, by comparison.

Anyway, this sounds like the kind of place for a max effort, high-strength bolt. That makes me wonder if anyone's contacted ARP. You'd probably need a run (at least 100, give or take) for them to do it, but I know they do custom orders in small enough quantities for "little guy" sellers. I doubt it'd be a total solution to the P-22's woes, but if I had a P-22, I'd pay good money for one. I guarantee if ARP made it, you'd have a much stronger bolt than the OE bolt. If it put an end to the self-detaching clutch problem, maybe Polaris's accountants would cry uncle and pay the price, but they'd probably force the engineers to make up that cost by cheapening something else...
 
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