Not getting enough RPMs

[Iceman56]

Okay I got a little time to look at it this morning... Checked compression both sides were 120+psi this is good right? I should not have to worry about the piston being scuffed right? Think I am still gonna take the powervalves off and clean them so maybe have a look anyways.

Okay Jones you were asking about black marks on the clutches after a quick inspection the top of the sheeve on the primary has black on it like the belt hasn't run that high on the sheeve, then I rotated the clutch and about 1/2 to 1/3 of the sheeve has no black what so ever like the belt is going all the way up right there.... I take it this isn't right? What would cause this??

 

[Iceman56]

I would agree with everyone above about checking clutches and power valves but there is also one other thing to check / change that is going to sound crazy.

I have two buddies that had the exact same issues your describing. Clutches were checked / cleaned as well as the power valves. Everything was clean and good to go and it still did what your talking about.

They were told to put a new set of plugs in and see what happens. Low and behold after a new set of plugs, no issues, problem solved.

Like I said, I know it sounds a little strange but it worked.

Good to know I will try that as well, plugs are cheap for the peace of mind... Thanks

 

[Iceman56]

I can't help much but I also have a 2013 163 with the Carl's Clutching Kit. I hold 8300 - 8400 RPM in all snow under load. It also backshifts like a dream. Their kit includes helix, springs, belly buster weights and you can also have them machine the clutch faces for a little added extra. My sled clutches perfectly and the clutches run much cooler than the stock setup. It is not an expensive mod and it really works!

I have thought about a clutch kit and wouldn't mind trying one, but I think I should figure out what my actual problem is before I try one

 

[m8matt]

I have a 2013 pro 163. I notice if my track is kept right at spec from polaris it hold rpm better. If it's a little loose it will hunt rpm during WOT climbs. I think it has something to do with the track rubbing when it comes around the drivers. It's a quick easy check to at least remove it from the list of possibilities.

 

[JonezyBones]

Okay I got a little time to look at it this morning... Checked compression both sides were 120+psi this is good right? I should not have to worry about the piston being scuffed right? Think I am still gonna take the powervalves off and clean them so maybe have a look anyways.

Okay Jones you were asking about black marks on the clutches after a quick inspection the top of the sheeve on the primary has black on it like the belt hasn't run that high on the sheeve, then I rotated the clutch and about 1/2 to 1/3 of the sheeve has no black what so ever like the belt is going all the way up right there.... I take it this isn't right? What would cause this??

Its hard to say without seeing. Any way you could snap a pic?

Is it just a little streak of black or a full on outline of the belt? Sometimes if you get some rub marks on your clutches it could mean your out of alignment.

Engine mounts could be wearing pre-maturely torquing your engine when under load.

 

[Iceman56]

Its hard to say without seeing. Any way you could snap a pic?

Is it just a little streak of black or a full on outline of the belt? Sometimes if you get some rub marks on your clutches it could mean your out of alignment.

Engine mounts could be wearing pre-maturely torquing your engine when under load.

Here is a lil vid I took to show the mark I was talking about on the top of the sheeve. Hopefully you can see it alright

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1fr2i80zdk

What you think?

 

[Iceman56]

I have a 2013 pro 163. I notice if my track is kept right at spec from polaris it hold rpm better. If it's a little loose it will hunt rpm during WOT climbs. I think it has something to do with the track rubbing when it comes around the drivers. It's a quick easy check to at least remove it from the list of possibilities.

Will do I have yet to tighten the track... Thanks

 

[TCPSOUTH]

Very closely check your rollers and weight bushings. Make sure you don't have a weight starting to roll sideways and dig into the clutch. Good luck.

 

[JonezyBones]

Here is a lil vid I took to show the mark I was talking about on the top of the sheeve. Hopefully you can see it alright

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1fr2i80zdk

What you think?

Id say those marks are just from belt slippage. If your clutches were really out of alignment it would be more consistant than that. But your belt does seem to be riding high up on your primary. Definitely pull the cover off your primary and inspect everything thoroughly at the least.

 

[Iceman56]

Very closely check your rollers and weight bushings. Make sure you don't have a weight starting to roll sideways and dig into the clutch. Good luck.

Will do.... Thanks

Id say those marks are just from belt slippage. If your clutches were really out of alignment it would be more consistant than that. But your belt does seem to be riding high up on your primary. Definitely pull the cover off your primary and inspect everything thoroughly at the least.

Are you talking about the marks down deep in the primary? Did you see on top of the sheeve how part of it is black and then rotate it and the other part has nothing, like the belt is going higher there?

Yeah gonna take the cover off and have a good look at everything

 

[800poodragon]

What should I be looking for when looking through the secondary? I don't think there is any black marks I will look today for sure... No have never cleaned power valves. Do they need to be cleaned after 700 miles?

I would clean power valves every 500 miles. Does make a difference. Should also take a scotch brite pad or something like that and clean the clutch shives. Primary and secondary. Do not use chemicals as they can leave residue that causes problems.

 

[JonezyBones]

^^^ What he said. Clean those suckas.

The black high up on the primary could be from a damaged spring. Id go down and buy a new one since you'll be in there anyway. $20 is about what they cost. SLP blue with pink stripe or Green with pink stripe. I believe the blue/pink is identical to what stock is. I put a green pink in this season and I'm liking the higher engagement RPM. Its your call.

 

[Iceman56]

I would clean power valves every 500 miles. Does make a difference. Should also take a scotch brite pad or something like that and clean the clutch shives. Primary and secondary. Do not use chemicals as they can leave residue that causes problems.

^^^ What he said. Clean those suckas.

The black high up on the primary could be from a damaged spring. Id go down and buy a new one since you'll be in there anyway. $20 is about what they cost. SLP blue with pink stripe or Green with pink stripe. I believe the blue/pink is identical to what stock is. I put a green pink in this season and I'm liking the higher engagement RPM. Its your call.

Took off the cover, the spring looks like it has really been eating into the cover and the other side of the clutch... It has ate a lot of aluminum out.... I think this may be a problem I am gonna take my uncles primary and try it on mine... his only has 100 miles...

Got the Powervalves out soaking in some degreaser... spark plugs, black/purple secondary spring, powervalve gaskets, and clutch puller all ordered.... Hope this fixes it... Thanks for all the help

 

[pj8556]

might be worth reading the $28 upgrade thread on this Pro RMK section....

 

[800poodragon]

Took off the cover, the spring looks like it has really been eating into the cover and the other side of the clutch... It has ate a lot of aluminum out.... I think this may be a problem I am gonna take my uncles primary and try it on mine... his only has 100 miles...

Got the Powervalves out soaking in some degreaser... spark plugs, black/purple secondary spring, powervalve gaskets, and clutch puller all ordered.... Hope this fixes it... Thanks for all the help

Let us know how it goes

 

[Iceman56]

Let us know how it goes

will do

 

[ak]

Since your approaching the 1,000 mile mark replace both clutch springs, that's about as long as they last.

 

[winter brew]

The black marks on you clutch are common and normal. The bottom marks are from the belt rubbing at idle and the initial slip at engagement before the sheaves squeeze the belt. The mark at the top if from going fast...once it gets to full shift the sheaves touch (or spring coil bind, whichever occurs first), and the sheaves can no longer apply side pressure to the belt so it will begin to slip at full shift.
Likely springs losing tension, engine dropping in power or a combination of things. Was the temperature warmer than usual when you saw lower RPM?

 

[1Mike900]

Maybe they are warped or untrue? Would need a dial indicator to see, but I would highly doubt it. Is the other side the same? Mike

 

[Iceman56]

Since your approaching the 1,000 mile mark replace both clutch springs, that's about as long as they last.

Yep gonna do that... Thanks

Maybe they are warped or untrue? Would need a dial indicator to see, but I would highly doubt it. Is the other side the same? Mike

I haven't got my Polaris clutch puller yet so really can't look at the other side to good.

The black marks on you clutch are common and normal. The bottom marks are from the belt rubbing at idle and the initial slip at engagement before the sheaves squeeze the belt. The mark at the top if from going fast...once it gets to full shift the sheaves touch (or spring coil bind, whichever occurs first), and the sheaves can no longer apply side pressure to the belt so it will begin to slip at full shift.
Likely springs losing tension, engine dropping in power or a combination of things. Was the temperature warmer than usual when you saw lower RPM?

Yeah the primary spring is definitely binding in the aluminum bad it has ate a lot of aluminum out...

Yeah it was a bit warmer out then normal