NOS for the XP pros and cons
- Thread starter Hotboat
- Start date
Guy i was riding with had the Boondocker kit on his 146xp and had mininal tweaking. Gave it a 50HP shot. Climb like no other! 
We all know the cons unfortunately
We all know the cons unfortunately
i'm running it on my xp, but have only hit the button 6 times so far. 4 times it worked like a charm, twice it almost stopped dead and I limped it down the hill, then the sled ran fine again (one of those times I got an overheat error, the other time nothing). If I was to do it again I would probably do twin pipes and a head first.
What kit did you go with???Also did you get your issues worked out???
B
Brotha NOS
New member
NOS kit
I use a Holtzman NOS kit on my XP 885. The principal behaind this kit is that the NOS pressure is a constant 300 psi regardless of bottle heat. The fuel adjustment works like a charm. It was very easy to dial in. Once it is dialed in you never have to change anything and your NOS blast is constant. I ran the same system on my 04 REV with a 900 Crankshop for 3 years and had no engine problems. NOS is worth it on any sled.
I use a Holtzman NOS kit on my XP 885. The principal behaind this kit is that the NOS pressure is a constant 300 psi regardless of bottle heat. The fuel adjustment works like a charm. It was very easy to dial in. Once it is dialed in you never have to change anything and your NOS blast is constant. I ran the same system on my 04 REV with a 900 Crankshop for 3 years and had no engine problems. NOS is worth it on any sled.
I'm installing Bondockers on my 07 rev, has anyone used the manometer for setting the DPM pressure or does everyone just run the sled and adjust the screws by feel.
Good question, I run the Boondocker also. I just installed it and did 1-2 second burst the first part of the day. then I tried a 4-5 second run and it seemed to run strong. Be sure to run at least 96 octane!!!!!!
As good as that sounds, I wouldn't screw by feel.... I have a digital monometer and used it with my boondocker kit. Best bet is to dial it in on a dyno. I did this with my 01 zx and it rocked.
I kinda have some concerns with running a BIG HP nitrous shot on an XP. The old 800 would just back off timing if RPM was to high, now it's more of a real rev limiter and when you hit 8600 rpm or 8500 rpm it actually misfires or boggs anyways it's all bad.
I run direct injected Nitrous with a NOS system with a bottle heater. I have a gauge attached to the top of the bottle. I turn the heater on when we leave the trail head (about 600 psi full) The heater will bring the bottle pressure up to almost 900 on a real cold day, and when I hit the button BAM it comes alive.
What I don't understand is how someone says they run a 50 HP shot with a boondocker or Boss Noss kit? just by tweaking the screw is going to tell you the size of the shot??
What I don't understand is how someone says they run a 50 HP shot with a boondocker or Boss Noss kit? just by tweaking the screw is going to tell you the size of the shot??
Hey there Hatcher! I can't speak for any other kit then boondocker but, tweaking the screws on a boondocker manifold only changes the amount of fuel that will be added to the engine when the button is hit. In order to get more nitrous on that system you have to change the nitrous jets in the manifold. So if someone is saying they are running a 30 HP shot they propably have a 3 hole and a 4 hole jet in there manifold, and if another guy is claiming 50 HP he's probably got a 4 hole and a 5 hole jet in the manifold.
I hope this helps you out.
I was told I should adjust the fuel screws on the manifold until I see 8 to 9 inches of water on the manometer. Does this sound correct?
thanks for the x-planation.
I have the boondocker on my XP and every time I hit the button it instantly hits the rev limiter. If I run a lower clicker number it doesn't run as good when it's not on the button. Any suggestions from those of you that have them on already? I would like to get my rev limiter removed, but I don't wanna be out of a ride while my MPEM is gone. I am getting between 7 and 8 inches of water on the monometer.
Don't Quote me, but If I remember correctly 6.5-7.0 is perfect (on the boondocker kit). Can anyone else confirm this.... Team Buck it sounds like you have your almost bang on. Can you tell us, How many turns out the screws are on your manifold, and how many holes are in each nitrous jet?...
On my ZX each screw was 3/4 of a turn out counting from both screws turned in all the way.
I think the cure for your lower clicker problem is a set of quick clickers. That way it's super fast to clicker down when you want to get the most from your nitrous and then super fast to clicker back up for your regular riding..... I think the only other way to remove the rev limiter is to get a MPEM box from the race department but I'm not totally sure on that.
I have an old water manometer, do I just support the back of my sled rev it up hit the button and adjust the screws until I get my proper water level?
What I did was, hook up the electrical to battery (quad battery) and then proceeded to dail it in from there with out even running the sled... Beware after every time you hit the button that the nitrous jet doesn't freeze off and plug the little holes in the jet, you may have to use compressed air and blow them off every time you do a test.
I hope that helps.
Can I hook up straight to the nitrous solenoid or does the whole sled need to be powered up for DPM operation?
I just tee'd into the DPM line with my manometer, powered up the solenoid with a battery and when I activate the nitrous I only get 2 inches on the meter no matter how far I adjust the screws in or out? Any advice?
Its an old 3 foot tall meter with a 3 foot long hose.
Its an old 3 foot tall meter with a 3 foot long hose.
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To be honest I haven't used a water manometer, mine is a digital one, and Yeah I just tee'd into the dpm lines...
Give me some time and I will find out who makes mine. (manometer)
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