what did the top of your pistons look like? what about your plugs? what kind are you running? 8s or 9s? bad fuel? sounds like you had an air leak somewhere?
NO OIL IN GAS ON FRESH MOTOR???
- Thread starter bm919mx
- Start date
Check out this post and what the dealer told him about mag side melt down.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194471
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194471
the exhaust sensor basicaly an o2 sensor just measures the amount of air fuel in the motor. to me it looks like you have an air leak into the motor. warped jugs head or base gaskets. was the base gaskets installed the right directions with the ribs upward? i wonder if while the motor was running and you sprayed carb cleaner on it if it would bog or die when you found the leak?
Actually all the stock sensor does is read the exhaust Temp.
If you have a propane gas torch you can take it and point it around the gaskets on the engine. Not lit, just want to clarify that, just gas on. If the engine speeds up you have a vacuum leak.
If you have a propane gas torch you can take it and point it around the gaskets on the engine. Not lit, just want to clarify that, just gas on. If the engine speeds up you have a vacuum leak.
Last edited:
that is kinda what i was wondering with the carb cleaner. wonder if any of that would help out. i think that i would just have the dealer do the motor so if it melted down again it would be there fault! wonder if you could just find a used motor?
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
I wouldnt put fuel injector cleaner or octane booster in a fuel injected sled.
Wonder if the dealer would even cover it. They would probably say it was your fault. Carb cleaner works but I would be very Leary about spraying down on the mag side because if could go right into the stator. I've used the little bernz-o-matic torch to find vacuum leaks on cars many times. We had one set up with a rubber hose on the end that we could aim around on the engine when there was a suspected leak.
octane booster is a waste of money unless you are running the compression you need. fuel injector cleaner is just isopropanl alcohol. one of the only problems that i can see with that is the alcohol will break the oil down but the oil isnt introduced with the fuel for long enough for it to break it down. any other thoughts on that?
There are products made specifically for snowmobile use. If it isn't made for snowmobiles than do not put it in, it can do serious damage to your engine.
I just checked the Amsoil website and found this info which could be contributing to some of the burned down sleds.
Ethanol
Ethanol in fuel has a tendency to absorb water and separate from the gasoline, sinking to the bottom of the gas tank, where it quickly degrades and creates gum, varnish and other insoluble debris that can plug fuel flow passages and negatively affect engine performance. When this ethanol/water mixture is pulled
into the engine, it creates a lean burn situation that increases combustion chamber temperatures and can lead to engine damage.
The Owners manual has this to say
"If you use non-oxygenated fuel, Polaris recommends the regular use of Isopropyl-based fuel system deicer. Add one to two onces per gallon of gasoline to prevent engine damage resulting from fuel system icing and lean fuel mixtures. Never use deicers or additives containing methanol. Polaris also recommends the use of Carbon Clean Plus. See page 109 for part numbers of Polaris products.
If you use oxygenated fuel containing ethanol, additional alcohol deicers or water absorbing additives should not be used.
From the owners manual on Break-In
"No single action on your part is as important to long, trouble-free machine life as proper break-in of a new or rebuilt engine. Premix the first tank of gasoline with one pint of Polaris injection oil for each five gallons of fuel. This, in addition to the lubrication supplied be the injection system, will assure proper engine break-in.
Caution
Excessive heat build-up during the first three hours of operation will damage close-fitting engine parts. Do not operate at full throttle or high speeds for extended periods during the first three hours of use. Vary the throttle openings and machine speeds to reduce friction on all close-fitting machined parts, allowing them to break in slowly without damage."
"No single action on your part is as important to long, trouble-free machine life as proper break-in of a new or rebuilt engine. Premix the first tank of gasoline with one pint of Polaris injection oil for each five gallons of fuel. This, in addition to the lubrication supplied be the injection system, will assure proper engine break-in.
Caution
Excessive heat build-up during the first three hours of operation will damage close-fitting engine parts. Do not operate at full throttle or high speeds for extended periods during the first three hours of use. Vary the throttle openings and machine speeds to reduce friction on all close-fitting machined parts, allowing them to break in slowly without damage."
thanks for the useful post. just got done with my motor yesterday not to much fun. i think that i will be putting oil in the gas just for peace of mind if anything. also i noticed that when i bypassed my exhaust valve controller and plugged the brass nipples pto side had exhaust smoke coming from it and mag side had nothing. took the valve all back apart and the bellows and gaskets were still good. any reason why this would do this? my motor really only has about 10 minutes on it. all i did was let it warm up to about 125 then shut it off and let it cool then i warmed it up again and rode it down the drive way and back. found that my cable for the oiler was messed up and need a new one.
B
bustamove
Active member
i wanted to use octane booster as i have the slp heads. i did use spi pistons...... im thinking that wasn't a good choose.. i don't know about the gas here in BC canada, it did have 4 months old gas in it.. but i topped it up with 94 octane. there was no lip with the stock base gaskets. i used the three bond sealant they call for. i will post up some pics of my engine in another thread... this time it blew up BADLY
saw your pics looking kinda painful would it be cheaper just to get a new salvage motor?
