Newbie tips for trailering in snow

[SpencerA]

So this will be the first season I pull a 24ft aluminum enclosed trailer.

Besides going slow, slow, and slower and keeping a safe distance what tips can you give me?

Running a Tahoe with blizzaks and trailer has brakes on both axles and toyo observe snow tires. I'm running a P3 Brake controller. Have weight distribution hitch and air bags. If roads are really icy I won't even consider going. Road grade isn't too bad and plowed and sanded. Vehical weights more then trailer but not by much. Only putting 2 sleds in trailer max.
How do you guys set up your brake controllers? By the time I get to the snow where I ride its not like I have a place to pull over and play with adjusting it. Last thing I want is to not have it properly set and have some bad situation.

 

[AZ800]

You're going to need to play with the brake controller in the snow a bit, IMO.
Different brake controllers and condition/effectiveness of the trailer brakes will affect how fast the trailer brakes will lock up.
24' alum trailer with only 2 sleds will be fairly light weight. Guessing about 4k lbs with sleds loaded up.
In general on slick roads you want to keep the trailer braking pressure pretty light so as not to lock up the trailer wheels during braking. I'd set the brake controller initially to where the trailer brakes barely activate and then adjust up the power from there if you need more braking. You still have the manual control to use to apply trailer brakes to straighten the trailer if it starts swaying and you can always use the manual control to help slow down, knnowing that if on slippery roads, if the trailer brakes lock up you can just let go of the controller to keep the trailer from coming around on you.

Bottom line, much lighter braking pressure on the trailer controller on snowy roads.
With Blizzaks on the rig and snow tires on the trailer you'll be fine. Better equipped than alot of setups heading up the hill.

 

[SpencerA]

Thanks AZ800. My trailer is has quite a few upgrades so its pretty heavy for aluminum 3800lb dry. So I figure with sleds and gear I'm around 5200-5500lbs. I want to say my Tahoe is around 6klbs if I remember right dry weight.

 

[Vert]

Shift into 4 wheel as soon as you get into snow or ice.
Your first time in snow, set your controller up weak and use the manual lever to go full brake. adjust it up little by little until you get lock-up and then back it off a little more. you might have to play with it a little..

Lastly....

When in doubt throttle out!

 

[SpencerA]

So If I encounter a steeper grade should I manual shift so I don't risk spinninng out when down shifting? And what about going down hill should I do the same?

 

[Vert]

I don't recommend downshifting on a downgrade...if you dont know your shift points and/or the amount of traction you actually have, you risk sendin yourself into a 4 wheel skid...which can be corrected with throttle, but may cause pinch marks in your seat..

 

[94fordguy]

Lots of good tips on road driving, but you need to also remember that when you're in the unplowed snow park or after a long day with snow down low, that trailer will be an ANCHOR to get out of the lot if the snow starts stacking up, so park in an efficient way where you won't have to worry about getting out too badly. My trailer is 5K lbs loaded and my truck is about 7500 lbs and if the lot isn't in good shape, there are times that you really start to wonder.

Test your trailer brakes so you know what to expect, and always give WAY more following distance than you would ever think is necessary under normal conditions.

I definitely prefer to downshift on the descents (PRIOR to beginning them actually) and go SLOW to retain better control, but I've never felt a need to manually shift when climbing. I'm sure everyone has their own personal preference. Depending on the road and the situation, it's often good to hit a climb with some speed incase you do begin to lose traction, then you can slowly throttle back and let your momentum help you to crest the top.

 

[SpencerA]

All great points guys. Going up the hill is not my biggest fear its going down. I would feel much better with a longer wheel base but my Duramas will have to wait till next year. It seems like such a fine line of having my trailer brakes tuned just right. Not much room for error on that. I think thats why I will avoid the really bad days and weekends until I feel comfortable.

 

[volcano buster]

I use mirror extensions on my half ton.

Get your trailer loaded and make a dry run for about 20 miles on the flat to get a feel for how it handles the road, corners, stopping, backing up, all the usual stuff. That way when you decide to head up the hill you will already have the pucker factor dialed in. It will quickly get adjusted when the road surface changes, but that first drive will help.

On this test drive, if you have any hills to play on, try manually gearing down before starting down the hill. On mine, I can drop or add gears with a rocker switch so I like the idea of the engine braking coming off the hill instead of tapping or riding the brakes all the time. Then if you need just a little bit more slowing effect, I can ease into the brake controller. This slows things down in a straight line (if it isn't sheer ice) and helps test the braking. If this method doesn't promise any slowing, then you better start thinking about a plan B.

Make sure you have adequate tongue wait. I had to upgrade my sled in 2005 for that reason...

 

[XXL]

I always carry a set of light chains for my trailer too, I hate it when they pass you going downhill!!!

 

[SXViper]

Trailer Brakes

A quick rule of thumb given to me regarding trailer brakes is on a flat section of road coast along at roughly 5 mph. Very light if any pressure on the accelerator. Then manually activate the trailer brakes and the truck should come to a gradual stop.

Icy uphills momentum and smooth consistent throttle is key.

Downhill the trick is to slow long before you need to. slamming on the brakes just prior to the apex of a corner typically does not end well.

Lastly, there will be people who regardless of actual conditions will be in a panic to get by you. Try to keep a steady pace ignore the fact that their bumper is on your trailer and when there is an appropriate place in the road slide over and make it easy for them to pass. Then when you see them a half mile up the road stuck in the ditch be sure to honk and wave.

 

[Blk88GT]

If you have the option to manually downshift on a hill, I find it helps quite a bit. I find that if the roads are slick, I control the upshift sometimes when I'm heading up a hill and picking up speed.

I've got the P3 in my Duramax and it sure makes braking a lot more seamless compared to conventional controllers.

It sounds like you've done some research into your towing setup, I'm sure it'll pay off for you.

 

[priest lake rmk]

Fold the mirrors in and forget its behind you.

 

[SpencerA]

If you have the option to manually downshift on a hill, I find it helps quite a bit. I find that if the roads are slick, I control the upshift sometimes when I'm heading up a hill and picking up speed.

I've got the P3 in my Duramax and it sure makes braking a lot more seamless compared to conventional controllers.

It sounds like you've done some research into your towing setup, I'm sure it'll pay off for you.

On your P3 do you turn your Boost off? What voltage did you start with and work down from in snowy conditions? Someone mentioned in the book it said start with six?

 

[Blk88GT]

I haven't towed either trailer in the mountains in the winter (I have a deck) but I'd have to double check the numbers, I think I've got the boost turned up for one of my trailers and off for the other.

 

[snowman557]

AS said before make sure you have enough tongue wait
else your trailer will start to weave and that is not fun!!
we pull a 5 place enclosed and have stopped before along the
road to throw more of r gear up towards the front of the
trailer

 

[SpencerA]

I would assume I have enough weight on the front. I put one sled up front and the other in the rear. I know rig sags pretty darn good on the front before my air bags kick in leading me to believe I have plenty of weight in the front. I''ve only driven it around town with the two sleds in it. I'll be sure to play with it on the highway before making the trip to insure my load is even.

 

[SpencerA]

AS said before make sure you have enough tongue wait
else your trailer will start to weave and that is not fun!!
we pull a 5 place enclosed and have stopped before along the
road to throw more of r gear up towards the front of the
trailer

By chance did you have a weight distribution hitch when it started swaying?

 

[Vern]

the best thing i can say is just use your head and don't go any faster than u feel comfortable but don't over think and get yourself panicked, just stay calm and adjust your driving for the road and conditions as u see fit. i got no advise on trailer brake controller setup as I've never used one, i have an old school open 4 place that has no brakes so we rely on truck brakes alone which just means being more aware of what's goin on around us. i have some pretty steep windy climbs that are often snow covered and on the climbs i like to get up some steam to prevent downshifting and on the down hill, i know you probably don't have this option, but in the dmax i like to let the allison do its thing and use the grade braking to ease down the hills.

 

[Goinboardin]

Tongue Weight

From what I've read, and experienced towing a 4500lb boat setup a few thousand miles in my 1/2ton Ford, you want your tongue weight to be between 10-15% of the total trailer weight. So with a 6k enclosed, shoot for at least 600lbs on the truck's ball. The boat I towed, when first brought home, had about 10 pounds tongue weight and was a nightmare. Had to shift the axles rearward a few inches to get it right, but once I did it was very smooth sailing.