New track for my Pro

[Laundryboy]

I've decided on putting a C.E. 9174m with 7 tooth drivers on my 2014 Pro. Is an anti stab kit a must? I thought I read somewhere that as long as you maintained the factory recommended track tension you'd be fine, but can't find where I read it. Also what about trimming the rails? What does that mean and how do you do it?
I'm also wondering what kind of effect this gearing change will have on the clutching. Anyone have advise?
I can't find much information about this from the search function.

 

[tinkerjohnson]

Track change

I'm looking at the exact same idea except I'm going to run the center drive avid drivers and center punch the track. I would rather do it that way than cut the rails and install the anti stab kit, still pondering on the ce 2.5 or the power claw 2.6. As far as clutching goes probably minor changes maybe required I used to change gearing all the time on my chain case sleds with not much changing on clutching

 

[mountainhorse]

Punching or cutting a track voids the warranty from Camoplast, according to the Camoplast Factory... unless your vendor is willing to warranty it on their own (IMO, get it in writing).

Not sure why there is the reticence to trimming back the rails... or running anti stabs...but to each their own... The Doo, Cat, Yami and even the Factory Polaris IQR's run short nosed rails. The Anti Stab also helps the track to roll easier.

I've run trimmed rails without anti stabs...NO issues.... I like the idea of rollers at the tips.

I'm running the 9174M on one of my sleds this year... 7 tooth "Power claw" style drivers, Anti stab kit, stock rails trimmed back and a track carrier wheel set to keep the inside of the track from slapping the top cross-tube of the front swing arm.

Trimming the rails is easy with a hacksaw or sawsall.
I like to pull the skid for the pre season disassemble/clean/grease BUT I've done it in the sled too.
If you have a lot of miles on your sled... now is the time to send in your shocks for service.

From a previous post.

No offset axle needed.

Trim the rails back for the drivers... and ONLY use the Avid drivers like those shown in this photo... the original style AVID or Wahl anti-ratchet drivers will not work with the 917X tracks or the X3's.

Make sure that you run the same factory specified track tension as shown in your owners manual that came with the sled... do NOT run the track loose.

Trim the rails back like this
The Anti-Stab shaft REPLACES the stock lower limiter-strap shaft using the stock lower limiter-strap shaft holes.

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[mountainhorse]

BTW...The driver alone will change the gearing in a favorable way and help the clutches work more efficiently.. no need to change clutching if yours is already ideal for your riding.

RMK/Assault (chaincase models) 20/42 gearing
Stock ratio: 2.10:1
With 7 tooth 3"-pitch drivers, Realized final drive ratio 2.28:1 (near ideal IMO)


Pro RMK with Quick drive (belt drive)
Stock Ratio . 2.09:1
With 7 tooth 3"-pitch drivers, Realized final drive ratio 2.27:1







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[Laundryboy]

Thanks Mountainhorse for that info. it was exactly what I was looking for. Do you have anymore info. about your carrier wheel set up?

 

[richracer1]

I just got done putting the 9175 (CE 162 x 15 x 2.5) in my Pro. Trimming isn't hard at all, just make sure you bevel the rail tips (top & bottom) and the hifax. Here's some pics of one I did on my '09 700. Key is to remove just enough of the rail to clear the extroverts and still enough rail to support the anti-stab. Also, make sure no part of the rail sticks out in front of the anti-stab wheels.







Here's actual pics of my Pro with the trimmed rails:

 

[Laundryboy]

What's your opinion of carrier wheels in the tunnel?

I just got done putting the 9175 (CE 162 x 15 x 2.5) in my Pro. Trimming isn't hard at all, just make sure you bevel the rail tips (top & bottom) and the hifax. Here's some pics of one I did on my '09 700. Key is to remove just enough of the rail to clear the extroverts and still enough rail to support the anti-stab. Also, make sure no part of the rail sticks out in front of the anti-stab wheels.







Here's actual pics of my Pro with the trimmed rails:

 

[richracer1]

Can't see why they wouldn't hurt, but the stock skid has a set up (not wheels) so the track doesn't hit the front arm upper tube. I left mine stock. I remember seeing the kits to do this, but don't remember who sells it.

 

[xmk1080]

Mountainhorse do you get any vibration from the "power claw" style drivers?

 

[mountainhorse]

Carrier Wheel.

Do you have anymore info. about your carrier wheel set up?

Here is what is available off the shelf from Wahl Bros.
http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=19740

Check out this thread for more info with pics etc.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369642

NOTE: This is not run because of trimmed rails... You run it because smaller drivers can bring the inside of the track closer to the top of the front swing arm....Especially the drive nubs...This adds a bit of extra protection.

I'll be putting up more info when I finish my sled build for the season.

 

[mountainhorse]

VIBRATION WHEN CHANGING TRACKS/DRIVERS

Mountainhorse do you get any vibration from the "power claw" style drivers?

Nothing pronounced...The PC style drivers do not ride on top of the metal clips...so there is no driver to clip contact... with the PC style...just rubber to rubber until it starts to ratchet and then the tooth will touch the clip.

A lot of people assume that when they install toothed drivers (AKA Extro or Combo drivers)...that the driver is causing the vibration.
That may not be the case....

Here are some other things that cause vibration when switching tracks/drivers

1) Taller lug tracks often clear when sled is warm dry...but the paddles slap at any ice snow buildup after running because of less clearance or stiffer lugs, this is more pronounced

2) Because of the decreased lug tip clearance there is actually "pulsation" from the paddles pumping air and air/snow mix out the front of the tunnel.

3) With a smaller driver... the internal drive "nubs" can actually rub on the front swing arm...Especially when you are not running correct factory track tension...these nubs "buzzing" on the tube make for vibration.
Loose tracks loose performance... don't let anyone tell you that because they can pull the track around on a lift easier with a loose track that this allows for more power to make it to the track... a sled on the stand and a sled on the snow are two different things.

4) If both the extro teeth and internal drive teeth are not centered in the windows and between the nubs... you will get vibration there... BE carefull and TRIPLE check that the drivers sit center between the internal drive nubs and are not rubbing on the sides of the track windows.




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