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New to me 2011 Pro RMK

Vincenthdfan

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Hey everybody,

I got a pretty good deal on a used 2011 Pro RMK the other day. One owner, 2500 miles, never been apart.

I factored a preventative maintenance top end into the cost of the purchase since original owner was riding on borrowed time in my opinion.

So, even though he recommended I ride it through this season and tear it down in the summer I couldn't hold off, figured I'd do a quick top end job and have plenty of time to ride it this winter....yeah, right. :face-icon-small-dis

I should know me better than that by now. Being an aircraft mechanic of 30 years has made me a big proponent of preventative maintenance.

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So...I start out pulling the top end apart (cant believe how much crap you have to pull outta the way to even get to the top end!

By the time I got to the top end my hands and arms were itching and scratching so bad I couldn't stand it.

Turns out that was from all the fiberglass insulation coming from under the pipe's heat shield....it was all stuck to the oily goo that collected in the pan from the vent pipe on the exhaust valves.

It was so nasty by the time I got down that far that I decided I had to pull the motor and clean all that crap out...just couldn't stand it.

See, this is how it goes, so instead of quality time out riding (I do have other sleds to ride, but I'm too busy wrenching & reading!), Im in my shop tearing my new purchase apart! Ugh
 
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The other part that sucks about the research, teardown, rebuild process is that there is so much conflicting information out there on these 2011, 2012 800's.

I have read, and read, and read thread after thread about the best way to prevent grenading your motor.

I'm turning the oiler up.

Getting a vented oil cap.

Read all about Indy Dan Long Rod motors.

Read about RK TEK Drop In Kits.

Read about MTNTK Fix Kits.

Called a rental company in West Yellowstone that uses the MTNTK Kits exclusively and they love them.

So...I buy a MTNTK Kit, call the local independent sled shop about honing my monoblock for me.

He tells me he wishes I had talked to him before buying the MTNTK Kit because of the problem with Wiseco piston skirts collapsing in short order.

Ugh...so much conflicting information out there about these damn motors!!

He says, the stock pistons work great for well over 1000 miles and the MTNTK Kit Wiseco's are going to be sacked out and slapping the cylinder skirts in 1000 miles, requiring changing again?

He also thinks the plate to raise the monoblock gets rid of the low end torque on these motors

Seriously?? I'm to the point anymore, I don't who, or what to believe??!! :juggle:
 
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In addition to the top end, I'm going to pull the loose heat shield from the pipe and wrap it with titanium wrap.

Then I'll reassemble the heat shield over top of the Titanium Wrap and clamp it all back into place so that it doesn't get that damn itchy, scratchy fiberglass all over everything again!!

Also going to re-route the exhaust valve vent line back to the exhaust can outlet area of the right shroud...that will let it splooge to its hearts content all over the place without messing up the motor, pan, shields, etc, etc...

Any advice for other things to do while I'm at it or first hand advice about how well your engines have held up with MTNTK Kits would be much appreciated at this point...I really need the morale boost!!

Thanks!
 
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I recommend putting 3 five gallon buckets under the sled. One under each ski and one under the track. This will lift the sled up and your back will love u for it.
 
Daaamn, you tore that thing apart.

- If you ever need to remove your coolant again, unscrew the thermostat housing on top of the engine. Put the housing/hose in a bucket. Then take your air hose, wrapped in a rag and shoot it into the engine. All your coolant will come out into the bucket and not all over in your belly pan.

- MTNTK kits are just fine and work well. The Wiseco piston skirt thing is BS.

- You'll want to upgrade your motor mounts, if they haven't been upgraded already.

- Thoroughly check your cylinder skirts for cracks. The 2011 blocks were thin.

- Check you reeds and replace if necessary.

- You typically don't need to hone nicasyl cylinders. It's actually a bad idea in many cases. Unless you can feel scratches with your fingernail, just clean up with a green scrubbie and thoroughly wash with hot soapy water.

- Don't route your exhaust valve line out with the exhaust. It can get plugged up with snow and ice. Put a small vented bottle on the end, if you want to catch the gunk.

That's all I can think of for now.
 
Your dealer is full of it the mtntk kits work great . I also like the rkt stuff

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Look into upgrading injectors if it still has the blue tags on the injector harness.

Replace fuel and oil filters.

Check exhaust valve diaphragms for cracks/hardness.

If you vent your tank you most likely wont have to turn up your oil pump. Mine was turned up when i got it and i have turned it down a fair bit since venting the tank.

Replace both clutch springs if they haven't been touched, wouldn't hurt to have both clutches balanced also (primary at minimum).
 
Has the primary clutch been changed ? if not throw it away, it will break, buy a new one and have it balance. What is the gearing in the chain case ? many of the 11's were geared down.
 
Has the primary clutch been changed ? if not throw it away, it will break, buy a new one and have it balance. What is the gearing in the chain case ? many of the 11's were geared down.

Holy crap...that's one I hadn't heard yet. :face-icon-small-sad

So, besides rattling stock pistons breaking skirts off cylinders, oil caps creating a vacuum, brass oil pump drive gears stripping out on the crank, now I should preventatively replace primary clutches??

What have I gotten myself into? Sure hope riding this thing is worth it... :face-icon-small-dis

Maybe I should have just stuck with my "Army Tank" Yamaha Apex MTN Sled?? That thing is literally indestructible at least.
 
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Don't worry about the primary breaking, getting it rebuilt/balanced is a good idea though depending on miles. I am still running mine, only 2400 miles though.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Mtn tk is the most copied kit out there for a reason , Clutches give them a good cleaning scotch bright works well for the sheaves , new springs, check weights and pins , install I delrin washer in driven clutch, Check motor mounts and put some lock tite on the bolts ,up date motor mount bushings , 19/45 gearing ,TRS thermostat up grade and change out your EV springs and install some BPR9 EIX plugs

Now if you want to wake it up a bit install MtnTk head or find a PA head for your altitude and a good clutch kit and a HPS can for a little better sound and don't forget the Muff Pot

Money is just fun tickets the more you got = more fun
 
Don't worry your not the only one doing a rebuild in the start of the season. My pro has about 980 miles on a new warranty motor and it already was showing signs of damage. It might of been OK for this season but warranty expired in October so I wasn't going to chance it. I'm going with an Indy Dan top end. Nobody else on the market right now gives out a warranty on a top end. Plus I want to try out the new HG7 cylinder plating that he offers. Good luck with the rebuild and yes you definitely will enjoy the pro ride chassis once you get a chance to ride it!
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Don't worry your not the only one doing a rebuild in the start of the season. My pro has about 980 miles on a new warranty motor and it already was showing signs of damage. It might of been OK for this season but warranty expired in October so I wasn't going to chance it. I'm going with an Indy Dan top end. Nobody else on the market right now gives out a warranty on a top end. Plus I want to try out the new HG7 cylinder plating that he offers. Good luck with the rebuild and yes you definitely will enjoy the pro ride chassis once you get a chance to ride it!
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Damn!!

Misery loves company I suppose, lol.

Now I don't feel so bad.
 
If that is the exhaust side of the piston??? Looks like the exhaust valves are hitting piston. Talk to Indy Dan about this , he has fix and I also do the valves every time I do a Polaris top end. At least talk to Dan about this problem!!!
gtwitch in wyoming
 
Yes it is. I haven't heard of the fix. Didn't even know it was an issue until now. Both pistons had score marks in random spots all over. But this one was the worse. I'm guessing there were burs around some of the ports? I really tried to baby this motor since the last one shelled out a cylinder skirt. Not really happy with Polaris quality control. But this also was a warranty motor so maybe it was on their side.

What causes the power valve to hit the piston?

Sorry not meaning to highjack your thread...
If that is the exhaust side of the piston??? Looks like the exhaust valves are hitting piston. Talk to Indy Dan about this , he has fix and I also do the valves every time I do a Polaris top end. At least talk to Dan about this problem!!!
gtwitch in wyoming
 
etrr

JoNE, the cause of the exhaust valve contacting is a polaris design flaw in that the base of the valve at the end of the shaft/stem beats out the aluminum bottom of the seat area in the cylinder thus allowing the guillotine to come closer to the piston as miles/time goes on and 2500 miles things are getting there. Indy Dan has a process to take care of the guillotine face and I have a similar process when I do my engines.
gtwitch in wyoming
 
I found one of my exhaust valves was just floating, the nut had come completely off of it.

Luckily it hadn't caused any damage...yet.

This is part of why I'm such a proponent of preventative maintenance.

Some people ride for years and do nothing with dumb luck (this sleds previous owner)....I however, do not have such dumb luck.

I'm just not one of them...
 
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