New Product: PES - Better Helix Bolts

[ZRP Engineering]

Here at PES we were tired of stripping out the helix bolts on the Polaris secondary clutches and having to pay a crazy price from Polaris to replace them. They just raised the price to $8 each!!

We knew there was a better way so we sourced our own solution. Our bolts use a larger drive (T-30 vs T-27) which helps prevent stripping and our bolts also feature a Torx-Plus drive design which maximizes bit surface area to prevent stripping and can be used with the traditional Torx bits you already have or you can upgrade to a Torx-Plus bit for even better grip.


In summary: You get a much better bolt for only 1/4 the price.

See Pricing on our website or in the swapmeet here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3954742#post3954742

 

[skibreeze]

Or, just use some heat on the factory bolts when removing them for the first time. I've installed a bunch of helixes doing turbo installs and I haven't stripped out a single bolt this way.

 

[Sage Crusher]

Here at my shop we switched at the beginning of the season to installing PES bolts to ALL my clients secondaries - when the time comes to pull a spring or just general cleaning-
I don't have to worry about stripping the head out any-longer, or cussing the heat applied was not enough.
These truly take the headache out of the removal process.
We don't have to apply ANY heat to remove these- the bite on the head is so much better applied and yes, loctite is applied to the treads and internal threads chased before installing.......
Simple fix- and I think months ago Mountainhorse had a thread for a heads up on these bolts or something very similar to them...
Great product for sure.

S/C

 

[AndrettiDog]

F'n helix bolts are always nasty. Tough to get an angle on them.

 

[sledheader]

I just did my helix for the turbo and gave the bolt heads each a couple good whacks with a hammer first and they came right out?

 

[Indy_500]

Or, just use some heat on the factory bolts when removing them for the first time. I've installed a bunch of helixes doing turbo installs and I haven't stripped out a single bolt this way.

Why the hate? You might not strip yours out, but Bob did and now Bob has a better alternative than stock. Kudos to PES for offering a better option at a better price, not like there is much money to be made selling a few bolts, most companies won't make the effort to offer simple products like this saving you time from tracking them down from a hardware supplier.

 

[ZRP Engineering]

Or, just use some heat on the factory bolts when removing them for the first time. I've installed a bunch of helixes doing turbo installs and I haven't stripped out a single bolt this way.

Sounds like this product may not be for you then.
Not everyone has problems with these, but many do so here we are

 

[Scott]

Why the hate? You might not strip yours out, but Bob did and now Bob has a better alternative than stock. Kudos to PES for offering a better option at a better price, not like there is much money to be made selling a few bolts, most companies won't make the effort to offer simple products like this saving you time from tracking them down from a hardware supplier.

I don't think it's hate. It's just that he's had different experiences.

 

[Scott]

Sounds like this product may not be for you then.
Not everyone has problems with these, but many do so here are

Totally possible. I seem to get a mixed bag when I pull mine. Sometimes heat works, some times it's not needed. Sometimes NOTHING works.

I think your product offering is GREAT. Thank you.

 

[skibreeze]

Why the hate? You might not strip yours out, but Bob did and now Bob has a better alternative than stock. Kudos to PES for offering a better option at a better price, not like there is much money to be made selling a few bolts, most companies won't make the effort to offer simple products like this saving you time from tracking them down from a hardware supplier.

No hate at all. This is a forum to exchange ideas and different people have different ideas and solutions. I have learned a ton from other people here and I have shared my experiences for years now and will continue to do so.

Between heat and/or a manual impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) I have never needed anything else and once the screws are removed 1 time, they are never as hard as they come from the factory. IMO, learning proper removal the first time eliminates the need for different screws and the headaches of stripping them out in the first place. Now, if somebody has already screwed the pooch and stripped them out, PES is making a great replacement.

 

[LongHorn XC]

No hate at all. This is a forum to exchange ideas and different people have different ideas and solutions. I have learned a ton from other people here and I have shared my experiences for years now and will continue to do so.

Between heat and/or a manual impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) I have never needed anything else and once the screws are removed 1 time, they are never as hard as they come from the factory. IMO, learning proper removal the first time eliminates the need for different screws and the headaches of stripping them out in the first place. Now, if somebody has already screwed the pooch and stripped them out, PES is making a great replacement.

I have found using a good snap-on quality bit is the key factor here. Cheap bits might not work as well.

First time taking them out, apply heat, take a rubber mallet and tap in the snap-on bit nice and tight. She will come right out. No longer need heat after first removal.

 

[POLZIN]

I'd have to assume its a better quality fastener than the stuff Polaris uses too!

 

[deschutes]

I will likely buy these, thanks for sharing.

However, I have found that aside from not using heat the first time, most issues come from people using a T25 on the factory bolts, rather than a T27. T27 is not part of a lot of the standard Torx kits, and the T25 seems like it fits if you aren't aware.

Another huge advantage to these upgraded bolts is that a T30 bit is going to be easier to find than a T27 in a pinch.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I will likely buy these, thanks for sharing.



However, I have found that aside from not using heat the first time, most issues come from people using a T25 on the factory bolts, rather than a T27. T27 is not part of a lot of the standard Torx kits, and the T25 seems like it fits if you aren't aware.



Another huge advantage to these upgraded bolts is that a T30 bit is going to be easier to find than a T27 in a pinch.

A standard torx bit (what you find easily) will work in a torx plus screw but you don't get the full benefit of the torx plus design........



The snap-on tapered torx work great for a tight fit (standard torx)

The bit you need.

 

[The Bob]

If you work somewhere, or have, that does clutches you will definitely run into some that seems like nothing will work, heat, manual impact, drill, haha.

I was just happy to see 30 Torx instead of the crappy 27. I don't know if you guys run into it, but seems like 27 is the odd man out when purchasing some torx's sets. I will admit I sometimes buy ****ty sets just for the 27 cause I know its going to get messed up, only to find out the kit didn't even come with the 27. I will say the Snap On 27 I purchased does seem to work the best, not to mention being able to return it for life.

Will be ordering a bunch asap!

 

[Anthony Oberti]

This is actually a great idea! Thanks PES. Another great product you guys offer.

 

[green_denali]

bit

I have found using a good snap-on quality bit is the key factor here. Cheap bits might not work as well.

First time taking them out, apply heat, take a rubber mallet and tap in the snap-on bit nice and tight. She will come right out. No longer need heat after first removal.

I got some snap on bits & they have worked flawlessly. The bit I had before the Snap on, don't know what brand it was, actually broke in half while trying
to take out the torque screws.

 

[mountainhorse]

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[Sage Crusher]

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Thanks MH- there are the ones I was referring to
S/C