This!
Dry rubber to metal friction is significantly higher that wet metal to metal!!
A one stage wet chain drive has an reflectivity in the high 90-percentage range, there isn't much room for power gain by swapping it for something else.
Why can't I edit my previous post?
Obviously I meant EFFECTIVITY, not reflectivity
Anyways. Only time I had any real trouble with a chaincase was on my -13 Boondocker where I apparently got an after market top sprocket that didn't match the chain pitch. blew 2 chains in quick succession before figuring things out. Otherwise I haven't had a single chain related problem on any of the BRP or Polaris sleds that I have had after that. Usually don't even need to change the chain before i swap sleds at around 4-5000km. I remove the chain for a thorough inspection at least once a year, change oils a few times more also. (use whatever cheap engine oil I happen to have around) Oil change takes a few minutes and costs the equivalent of a dollar or two in oil.
Going by the service/change interval of the QD belt on the Polaris sleds I would have to change at least one belt in the time I own a sled and those belts are not cheap.
As I said earlier. There are plenty of stuff that needs fixing before they need to add another belt to the sleds.
On the Cat, Did they say it has some sort of adjustment feature for belt length. Didn't understand fully if it was a "fluid adjuster" or if it just had fixed positions to accommodate different gearing? I'm assuming the corresponding adjuster can be found on the secondary side or otherwise the shaft will be out of alignment for all positions but one.