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New motor from BRP

Guys gotta have things they dream of!
true and if they come with belt drives some day then cool but I don’t think they’re as reliable as chain drives. plus when I’m out riding I’m not thinking “man this sled is great but it could be so much better with a belt drive”. I’d rather see that R&D money spent on other things.
 
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The 9r is over hype big time. Our group had one for 2 weeks and the dealership and us spent hours clutching it. Best it could do was pull a sled length on a matryx 850 out the hole. then the 850 realed it in to half a sled and they stayed there. The 850 has trs clutching, the best kit for your polaris. The 9r had factory weights/ epi weights and both the high and low elevation helix and a couple spring changes. This was at 2000-4000'
 
true and if they come with belt drives some day then cool but I don’t think they’re as reliable as chain drives. plus when I’m out riding I’m not thinking “man this sled is great but it could be so much better with a belt drive”. I’d rather see that R&D money spent on other things.

Less rotating mass. Belt drives give quicker throttle response.


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Less rotating mass. Belt drives give quicker throttle response.


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Takes a decent dose of placebo inducer of choice along with the belt drive to notice much of a difference.

Chains are cheaper, lasts longer, (as long as the correct one is used), and takes a minimum of work to maintain, there are lots of stuff needing fixing before the chain case, (again, as long as the correct stuff is used and no one has cut the drive shaft in two).

I see Cat advertises their belt on the catalyst is meant to last the life span of the sled, I'm looking forward to being amazed if that's true!
 
People who have installed belt drive, have allways said that you can feel the difference. When I ask more questions, it finds out that gear ratio on those belt drive is always shorter than stock gearing. Ofc then the sled feels more revy. Same thing as you would gear down your chain case. With same gear ratio, there is very little difference. Chain is superior what comes to reliability and a lot cheaper to change ratio if needed.
 
People who have installed belt drive, have allways said that you can feel the difference. When I ask more questions, it finds out that gear ratio on those belt drive is always shorter than stock gearing. Ofc then the sled feels more revy. Same thing as you would gear down your chain case. With same gear ratio, there is very little difference. Chain is superior what comes to reliability and a lot cheaper to change ratio if needed.
Meh, I disagree. Chains are heavier (rotating mass), require fluids (resistance), and increase heat throughout. And they need adjusted way more than a belt drive. Chains have continued to become a thing of the past and will continue. Doo will move to a belt drive. Rasmussen has been testing for a couple years now.
 
People who have installed belt drive, have allways said that you can feel the difference. When I ask more questions, it finds out that gear ratio on those belt drive is always shorter than stock gearing. Ofc then the sled feels more revy. Same thing as you would gear down your chain case. With same gear ratio, there is very little difference. Chain is superior what comes to reliability and a lot cheaper to change ratio if needed.
Ive put on many belt drives with same gear ratio and everyone can feel the difference in acceleration.
 
Well to put in into perspective, two identical sleds on my deck at -20C chain driven sled just rolled down the ramp in reverse idling with no rider, my belt driven sled had to be pushed down the ramp idling in reverse. No I don’t ride the sled down, it’s not necessary.
It was my one and only belt drive. They used to have a big advantage in rotating mass, but with these lightweight sprockets from the factory it’s not as big as a weight gap. I have more confidence in a chain on load changes than a cogged belt for this application.
I despised the wider belt drive compared to the chain. Doo would have to do a total redesign to put the BD inside like Polaris and cat, as I mentioned, doo looked at a belt drive years ago.


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People who have installed belt drive, have allways said that you can feel the difference. When I ask more questions, it finds out that gear ratio on those belt drive is always shorter than stock gearing. Ofc then the sled feels more revy. Same thing as you would gear down your chain case. With same gear ratio, there is very little difference. Chain is superior what comes to reliability and a lot cheaper to change ratio if needed.
I've snapped two chains in my time on sleds. Haven't broken a belt since I've been running them. Proper gearing for the situation is key whether using a belt or chain. Some sleds need geared up and feel like they pull harder when done so with the belt drive too.
 
Well to put in into perspective, two identical sleds on my deck at -20C chain driven sled just rolled down the ramp in reverse idling with no rider, my belt driven sled had to be pushed down the ramp idling in reverse. No I don’t ride the sled down, it’s not necessary.
It was my one and only belt drive. They used to have a big advantage in rotating mass, but with these lightweight sprockets from the factory it’s not as big as a weight gap. I have more confidence in a chain on load changes than a cogged belt for this application.
I despised the wider belt drive compared to the chain. Doo would have to do a total redesign to put the BD inside like Polaris and cat, as I mentioned, doo looked at a belt drive years ago.


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This!

Dry rubber to metal friction is significantly higher that wet metal to metal!!

A one stage wet chain drive has an reflectivity in the high 90-percentage range, there isn't much room for power gain by swapping it for something else.
 
Well to put in into perspective, two identical sleds on my deck at -20C chain driven sled just rolled down the ramp in reverse idling with no rider, my belt driven sled had to be pushed down the ramp idling in reverse. No I don’t ride the sled down, it’s not necessary.
It was my one and only belt drive. They used to have a big advantage in rotating mass, but with these lightweight sprockets from the factory it’s not as big as a weight gap. I have more confidence in a chain on load changes than a cogged belt for this application.
I despised the wider belt drive compared to the chain. Doo would have to do a total redesign to put the BD inside like Polaris and cat, as I mentioned, doo looked at a belt drive years ago.


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I suspect this had more to do with track or clutch drive belt tension. Belt drives are usually a little loose when cold and shouldn't drag much, if at all.
 
I suspect this had more to do with track or clutch drive belt tension. Belt drives are usually a little loose when cold and shouldn't drag much, if at all.

Nope, that gates belt is a stiff SOB. I have been dealing with that gates carbon well before they made it on a sled.


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Well to put in into perspective, two identical sleds on my deck at -20C chain driven sled just rolled down the ramp in reverse idling with no rider, my belt driven sled had to be pushed down the ramp idling in reverse. No I don’t ride the sled down, it’s not necessary.
It was my one and only belt drive. They used to have a big advantage in rotating mass, but with these lightweight sprockets from the factory it’s not as big as a weight gap. I have more confidence in a chain on load changes than a cogged belt for this application.
I despised the wider belt drive compared to the chain. Doo would have to do a total redesign to put the BD inside like Polaris and cat, as I mentioned, doo looked at a belt drive years ago.


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I don't doubt your experience. But in running temperature there is no huge difference. Personally I rather take durability over that small advantage of weight/rolling resistance. Amount of belt drive failures I have seen compared how much they have been used, makes chain superior.
 
Chains don't stretch like a belt??
I’ve never seen a stretched quickdrive belt. I chased stretching chains for many years though.

We towed out 3 chaincase sleds last year. Broken chain, broken case, carnage.

Swapped one belt after a sled got a loose bolt stuck under the lower pulley and the belt got eaten.

(5 chaincase sleds, 12 quick drive sleds in the group)
 
This!

Dry rubber to metal friction is significantly higher that wet metal to metal!!

A one stage wet chain drive has an reflectivity in the high 90-percentage range, there isn't much room for power gain by swapping it for something else.
Why can't I edit my previous post?

Obviously I meant EFFECTIVITY, not reflectivity :cool:

Anyways. Only time I had any real trouble with a chaincase was on my -13 Boondocker where I apparently got an after market top sprocket that didn't match the chain pitch. blew 2 chains in quick succession before figuring things out. Otherwise I haven't had a single chain related problem on any of the BRP or Polaris sleds that I have had after that. Usually don't even need to change the chain before i swap sleds at around 4-5000km. I remove the chain for a thorough inspection at least once a year, change oils a few times more also. (use whatever cheap engine oil I happen to have around) Oil change takes a few minutes and costs the equivalent of a dollar or two in oil.

Going by the service/change interval of the QD belt on the Polaris sleds I would have to change at least one belt in the time I own a sled and those belts are not cheap.

As I said earlier. There are plenty of stuff that needs fixing before they need to add another belt to the sleds.

On the Cat, Did they say it has some sort of adjustment feature for belt length. Didn't understand fully if it was a "fluid adjuster" or if it just had fixed positions to accommodate different gearing? I'm assuming the corresponding adjuster can be found on the secondary side or otherwise the shaft will be out of alignment for all positions but one.
 
^i believe the engineer explained it has like 3 preset positions for different gear ratios, loosen a couple bolts to move it. youguys wouldnt like that though, no gear oil smells the rest of your day.
 
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