need more boost on powderlites stg 2
- Thread starter khk
- Start date
yeah... i would check out your lines going from the engine to the controller then to the wastegate, a pinhole in that line can really cause a lot of trouble!
Were you running more the 10 lbs prior??
Make sure your controller is working proper, try blowing air through it and make sure its bleeding air off when adjusting knob etc..
Leaks?? Check intercooler some have been known to crack on the weld that goes across the tubes near the top of intercooler..
Adjust wastegate 1-2 turns on rod..
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brettr3006
New member
Mine was the same. I found that the waste gate linkage was out of adjustment. Shortened the rod a few turns, also had a spare boost controller in the trailer so we changed that out too. Now she makes big boost! I think the biggest problem was the linkage but the new boost controller stayed in.
very true, if the rod is out of adjustment, then the wastegate actuator can only work the flapper in the turbo enough, therefor, limiting your boost.
I had the same problem with mine. I adjusted the rod two turns and gained a couple pounds with the controller open but with the controller turned shut it stayed the same. So my minimum is almost the same as my max boost. I've traced everything from the turbo up to the intercooler. I've checked the intercooler for cracks but can't find anything.
The next thing to do is to simply unhook the controller completly and see if you can get the maximim boost of the turbo without the acuator opening the wastgate. I''ll probably check that out this week.
The next thing to do is to simply unhook the controller completly and see if you can get the maximim boost of the turbo without the acuator opening the wastgate. I''ll probably check that out this week.
Are you saying that you are going to unhook the line to the wastegate and then see how much boost it makes? If so I would recommend against doing that if you value your engine.
Removing your controller should give you the same amount of boost you had with it on as the controllers are setup to bleed air out as you turn the knob clockwise. So essentially having it cranked out all the way will net you the same boost as hooking the line directly from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator.
removing the controller and just hooking the wastegate actuator straight to the a boost line of your intake side should show you if its your controller or your wastegate.
if boost shows the same then you either need to adjust your wastegate arm, or you that is the amount of boost the wastegate is set at and your controller is bad.
if boost shows the same then you either need to adjust your wastegate arm, or you that is the amount of boost the wastegate is set at and your controller is bad.
Removing it it will NOT give you the same as with the controller on if the controller is bad. In order to check it I have to unhook and be very careful when coming up on the boost. I really have no other options at this point considering when I shortened the rod it now it closed the wastgate that much more , that my minimum boost is a couple pounds too much now.
I disagree. All the boost controller does is bleed off some air pressure coming from the compressor housing so that the wastegate actuator does not open as much. They are designed to fail to the lowest boost pressure which is exactly the same pressure as if you were to hook the line straight from your compressor housing to the actuator.
No I agree thats what the controller does BUT IF the controller for whatever reason is not bleeding enough air....... I know its bleeding on the bench but I don't know what its doing on the sled in action. Like I say, when opening the controller I have no diff whatso ever in boost levels like it's not even there.. By shortening the rod it starts coming up on boost but my minimum boost is too much with the controller closed and actuator open. Too get my minum back I need to lengthen the rod the two turns I shortened it by.
I would suggest upgrading to a new controller anyway if its the powerderlites kit. The one that comes with feels very low quality and would be worth replacing. I would pick up a turbosmart manual boost controller and be done with it.
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/
No I totally agree with ya, but I wanna pinpoint this and at least get a replacement from Dave since this thing hasn't worked from day one. I've run most of the winter content at 10 pounds , I go to turn it up for the mountain trip in Fernie in Feb and still I got ten pounds........YAA! At least there I got away with the 12 pounds I got by shortening the rod....LOL. This summer I'm gonna fine tune the whole installation to my liking after spending a winter on it.
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youd47
Member
Mines doing the same thing. What kind of elevation are you running? I think a lot of my problems picked up after the 4th gen map. I've adjusted waste gate and gotten 12 lbs but something is definetly wrong. I've had to drop weight in the primary to get RPM's. I plan on replacing boost controller, but I wonder if this map just doesn't work at elevation.
I installed the turbosmart controller and it seems to work alot better and doesn't ice up.
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LOYTOY
Member
i agree!!
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seano700
Active member
Boost Leaks
I had similar issues last year not being able to make more then 10psi, no matter what I did with the controller or wastegate. Over the summer I found the 1/2" line from the intercooler that ties into the throttle bodies had came off on the throttle body side (tough to see). After repairing that the machine ran totally different and pulled way harder. This year I found the short charge tube had almost wore through from rubbing on the sub frame just above the clutch. A buddy once had the motor side of the throttle bodies pop out, but that was an apex. Things to check anyway. I also upgraded my boost controller to a turbo smart all in one unit (no tee fitting, for ball and spring) it works really good. I can run from 10-17lbs boost using just the bleed off.
Anyone on this forum running the new stage 3 green injectors? I have them and up high at 6000+ft and 14+pounds of boost they work really good. At home 1500ft and @ 12 psi it runs a 10.5 AFR which seems a bit rich, does anyone have a better map for these injectors at low elevation and low boost? Even running rich like this I picked up 4-500rpm with no other changes, so I think these are the answer once dialed in.
I had similar issues last year not being able to make more then 10psi, no matter what I did with the controller or wastegate. Over the summer I found the 1/2" line from the intercooler that ties into the throttle bodies had came off on the throttle body side (tough to see). After repairing that the machine ran totally different and pulled way harder. This year I found the short charge tube had almost wore through from rubbing on the sub frame just above the clutch. A buddy once had the motor side of the throttle bodies pop out, but that was an apex. Things to check anyway. I also upgraded my boost controller to a turbo smart all in one unit (no tee fitting, for ball and spring) it works really good. I can run from 10-17lbs boost using just the bleed off.
Anyone on this forum running the new stage 3 green injectors? I have them and up high at 6000+ft and 14+pounds of boost they work really good. At home 1500ft and @ 12 psi it runs a 10.5 AFR which seems a bit rich, does anyone have a better map for these injectors at low elevation and low boost? Even running rich like this I picked up 4-500rpm with no other changes, so I think these are the answer once dialed in.
