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Here is some info that everyone on here should read about dielectric grease and why you need to be careful where you are putting it, specifically on your ground and wire connections.

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

Dielectric grease is typically a translucent, grey substance that is insoluble in substances such as ethanol, methanol, mineral oil, and water. It is soluble, however, in the industrial solvent methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and mineral spirit. It is important to note that dielectric grease will melt silicone rubber over time, and thus should not be used on connectors, such as o-rings, that are made of this rubber.

While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.


Dielectric grease is most widely used as a sealant for spark plugs, and is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. The grease not only helps the boot slide onto the ceramic portion of the plug, but prevents dirt, moisture, sand, and other foreign objects from contaminating the seal, and compromising the electrical current. Dielectric grease is also commonly used on the gaskets of multi-pin connectors in car and marine engines.


http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm
 
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thanks for that info, but it doesnt help me right now. i cant get it to start, i cleaned the ground off and put it back on, put my new exhaust sensor on. and it wont start, has spark but wont start. last time it ran, it ran for a few seconds then slowly died, i restarded it for like 2 seconds, then nothing again.
 
i seriously dont know whats wrong with this thing, it wont run yet has spark. gonna work on it with my dad tomorow but i have a feeling were not gonna get anywhere.
 
thanks for that info, but it doesnt help me right now. i cant get it to start, i cleaned the ground off and put it back on, put my new exhaust sensor on. and it wont start, has spark but wont start. last time it ran, it ran for a few seconds then slowly died, i restarded it for like 2 seconds, then nothing again.

Have you checked fuel pressure ??? I know it wasn't the problem with the lights but since it died and you have spark my first thaught to get it running would be to check for fuel maybe try to dump a little gas in the plug holes and see if it will fire on that ????
 
I'd be willing to bet it's your stator. Mine did the same thing last year...three main legs went to ground (ran without headlights for a bit too long). The sled still ran, good sometimes and crappy others. The rest of the stator tested fine. Theres a test procedure in the deep snow manual, but the easiest way to tell is to test the three main legs(yellow wires) to see if there is continuity to ground. If so, order a new one from partspitstop.
 
thanks for that info, but it doesnt help me right now. i cant get it to start, i cleaned the ground off and put it back on, put my new exhaust sensor on. and it wont start, has spark but wont start. last time it ran, it ran for a few seconds then slowly died, i restarded it for like 2 seconds, then nothing again.

That is what mine did after it sat a few months without starting it. I couldn't get it started to save my life. I noticed I had the had warmers turned on and when I turned them off it would start and then run for a few seconds and die. Took three or four tries but it finally ran. I'm going to make up a jumper to plug in so I can prime the fuel pump next time.
 
I'd be willing to bet it's your stator. Mine did the same thing last year...three main legs went to ground (ran without headlights for a bit too long). The sled still ran, good sometimes and crappy others. The rest of the stator tested fine. Theres a test procedure in the deep snow manual, but the easiest way to tell is to test the three main legs(yellow wires) to see if there is continuity to ground. If so, order a new one from partspitstop.
X2 mine did the same thing drove it 60 miles home. ran like crap. no lites or gauges. put new stator problem solved.
 
allright well tonight me and my dad worked on this baby, i think it wasnt starting because i dont have my suspension on and the sled was tilted backwards, it didnt have much gas in the take so it must be that.

we dumped gas into intake and it started, then we unplugged fuel filter and my dad cranked and fuel came out (after we lifted back end, and added more gas).

i didnt try and start it after we tested every wire for continuity, everything is ok. but my stator has continuity but some resistance, what are the three yellow wires supposed to show? (shows around 8 ohms)

another thing is how do i test my gauges with a 12v battery to make sure they work?


another thing is we wernt able to check the wires going to left hand controls, so high/low beam,reverse and my gauge toggle, how do i take it apart? and has any one ever have it short out?


thanks alot.
 
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allright well tonight me and my dad worked on this baby, i think it wasnt starting because i dont have my suspension on and the sled was tilted backwards, it didnt have much gas in the take so it must be that.

we dumped gas into intake and it started, then we unplugged fuel filter and my dad cranked and fuel came out (after we lifted back end, and added more gas).

i didnt try and start it after we tested every wire for continuity, everything is ok. but my stator has continuity but some resistance, what are the three yellow wires supposed to show? (shows around 8 ohms)

another thing is how do i test my gauges with a 12v battery to make sure they work?


another thing is we wernt able to check the wires going to left hand controls, so high/low beam,reverse and my gauge toggle, how do i take it apart? and has any one ever have it short out?


thanks alot.

Manual says charge coil (yellow wires) resistance should be .13 ohms +/- 15% and no continuity between any yellow and ground. Sorry, can't seem to figure out how to link up the diagram.

For reference, here are the other tests for the stator:

Crank position sensor - 5 tooth (white/green and green) 190 ohms +/-15%, 2 tooth (white/red and white) 190 ohms +/-15%

Coils - Green/red and green 15 ohms, green/red and brown/white 30 ohms, brown/white to ground

Injectors - blue/yellow and blue/yellow 2.4 ohms

Hope this helps
 
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ask and ye shall receive :face-icon-small-ton


statorspec.jpg

statortest.jpg

stator.jpg
 
you can run your gauges and lights on your sled w/o the sled started by applying 12vdc to the factory 3 plug harness.

the color of the wires are red/with a white stripe and brown (no middle wire in harness)

there are only 1 of these white 3 prong harnesses, and its right next to the fuel pump prime harness

"Diagnostic Plugs"
 
bad news

allright well im seriously depressed now, we checked evrything that we could. the stator didnt have continuity to ground, but between wires im unsure of what ohms were because my dads meter doesnt go low enough, but on 200 ohms it was showing .6 ohms.

sled runs, but no voltage STILL. im seriously tired of this thing, my reverse even works.


If the voltage regulator was burnt, would the sled have voltage? how would it run?



If the stator was bad, would the sled still go into reverse and run fine?

If the ECU was bad, would it go into reverse?



i just dont know what else to do. :frown:
 
did you check the wires i stated above to see if the gauges power up?

is the only thing your know doesnt work the gauges?
 
allright well im seriously depressed now, we checked evrything that we could. the stator didnt have continuity to ground, but between wires im unsure of what ohms were because my dads meter doesnt go low enough, but on 200 ohms it was showing .6 ohms.

200 ohm range should work also i have a $600 fluke and a $27 mastercraft meter both show same readings on my stator just the fluke steadys out faster not a big deal

if memory serves me correct only need 1 plug in ecm to run sled we had one left out of my buddies last year when we were troubleshooting his stator (we both lost stators last year) cant remember what didnt work though but it did run

make sure ALL stator readings are good

good luck
 
allright well im seriously depressed now, we checked evrything that we could. the stator didnt have continuity to ground, but between wires im unsure of what ohms were because my dads meter doesnt go low enough, but on 200 ohms it was showing .6 ohms.

sled runs, but no voltage STILL. im seriously tired of this thing, my reverse even works.


If the voltage regulator was burnt, would the sled have voltage? how would it run?



If the stator was bad, would the sled still go into reverse and run fine?

If the ECU was bad, would it go into reverse?



i just dont know what else to do. :frown:

It's running, therefore it's producing (some)voltage. And yes, even if the stator is bad (in some cases), the sled will run normal. Have you pulled the fuel tank? When I pulled mine, most of the VR wires were pinched pretty bad. Might be something else to check.
 
It's running, therefore it's producing (some)voltage. And yes, even if the stator is bad (in some cases), the sled will run normal. Have you pulled the fuel tank? When I pulled mine, most of the VR wires were pinched pretty bad. Might be something else to check.

yea we tested like every single wire, still dont know what it is.
 
Let us know the results after you hook up power to the harness. Make sure both headlight bulbs are good too, one of the other guys had electrical issues caused by a bulb being out. Sounds strange but who knows on these sleds.
 
I have another Question for you. Have you pulled the fuel tank off and checked the wires? I just pulled mine today and had a few wires under the tank that had almost worn through.:face-icon-small-sho
 
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