That's what I was kind of afraid of, you would think that it still should have pulled good under boost. Well, I'll get some new reeds, put her together and see what happens. Maybe, just maybe, this is all that is wrong with it.
Need help with my turbo.....long post. Please help
- Thread starter snowmanx
- Start date
That's what I was kind of afraid of, you would think that it still should have pulled good under boost. Well, I'll get some new reeds, put her together and see what happens. Maybe, just maybe, this is all that is wrong with it.
You have DETONATION happening! when you loosen plugs that is a HUGE sign.
You can have detonation and not have any aluminum on the plug electrode or damage to the piston but trust me, you have detonation.
The cylinder heads will need to be reshaped with maybe lower compression.
Big bores are much more prone to detonation and may need a bigger squish gap, possiably a slightly smaller squish band width and maybe lower compression.
Less timing may help but normally a better cylinder head design will work better to rid the motor of dentonation.
You can have detonation and not have any aluminum on the plug electrode or damage to the piston but trust me, you have detonation.
The cylinder heads will need to be reshaped with maybe lower compression.
Big bores are much more prone to detonation and may need a bigger squish gap, possiably a slightly smaller squish band width and maybe lower compression.
Less timing may help but normally a better cylinder head design will work better to rid the motor of dentonation.
K
Klimbing Kitty
Well-known member
Hey Snowmanx
I was having the same problems as you pretty much down to a T. I could not find the problem until today it showed its true face. It was probably cracked on the bottom and I could not see but here it is....
I was having the same problems as you pretty much down to a T. I could not find the problem until today it showed its true face. It was probably cracked on the bottom and I could not see but here it is....
L
little_orange_cat
Active member
hey bring that thing over here and ill fix her up for yaHey Snowmanx
I was having the same problems as you pretty much down to a T. I could not find the problem until today it showed its true face. It was probably cracked on the bottom and I could not see but here it is....
H
hatchers
Well-known member
those reeds look good to ride, ive replaced a few and those dont look bad at all.....but id still replace the two that are bad and put the new ones on top as the top ones get the heat damage
i also have a few y-pipes that look like that, well not that bad, but they did crack at the bottom where you cant see without removing it or using a mirror....this was directly the fault of the stupid boondocker hard mount between the pipe and turbo
i also have a few y-pipes that look like that, well not that bad, but they did crack at the bottom where you cant see without removing it or using a mirror....this was directly the fault of the stupid boondocker hard mount between the pipe and turbo
H
hatchers
Well-known member
ok i just read the original post....
how many miles on this sled?
how many miles on the fuel pump?
new turbo kit?
stock fuel pump?
when my fuel pump was going out last year: the sled would run great for 1-4 hrs....then it would die at idle and be very hard to start, fuel pressure was freaking out and very low, adjusted fuel pressure regulator to keep riding....then i got towed back for the last 4 rides of the season. she would always start up fine in the shop later until the very last time, she did start but the fuel pressure was freaking out and raising and lowering my rpms for obvius reasons and the fuel delivery was changing
but i would be more concerned with your A/F not working.....examine wiring and use a small 9 volt battery, plug this battery up to the fuel pump and pull the cord, see what happens.....then plug up 9v to the a/f guage
good luck
how many miles on this sled?
how many miles on the fuel pump?
new turbo kit?
stock fuel pump?
when my fuel pump was going out last year: the sled would run great for 1-4 hrs....then it would die at idle and be very hard to start, fuel pressure was freaking out and very low, adjusted fuel pressure regulator to keep riding....then i got towed back for the last 4 rides of the season. she would always start up fine in the shop later until the very last time, she did start but the fuel pressure was freaking out and raising and lowering my rpms for obvius reasons and the fuel delivery was changing
but i would be more concerned with your A/F not working.....examine wiring and use a small 9 volt battery, plug this battery up to the fuel pump and pull the cord, see what happens.....then plug up 9v to the a/f guage
good luck
My Y-pipe looks good, but you reminded me I was going to take the heat shield off and see if there are any cracks in the pipe.
It's an aftermarket fuel pump I believe. About 400 miles, if that, on everything.
I'll keep everyone informed.
Thanks for the help.
It's an aftermarket fuel pump I believe. About 400 miles, if that, on everything.
I'll keep everyone informed.
Thanks for the help.
Just wondering why this would be more of a concern for you? Not that it isn't a concern, but I sure would like to get it running.
I took the heat shield off, hoping to find a big crack, but the pipe, like the y-pipe, are both solid, not even a hint of a crack.
That's it for a day or 2, until I get some reeds and put her back together, and then I'll start checking some of the other stuff mentioned.
P
product tester
Well-known member
the green red light at idle means injector failure, green blue is the pressure sensor is stuck on.
H
hatchers
Well-known member
again, hook up a 9 volt battery to the fuel pump and see what fuel pressure you get, pull the rope and see how it idels
H
hatchers
Well-known member
well, where does OVS take in the 12v for the a/f gauge?.....hooking up a 9 volt battery to the a/f gauge itself will narrow down this issue
I agree sounds like det
I would take a compression check even though what you can see from the exhaust valve ports looks good. When the green & blue are on at idle it indicates that it is sensing boost (a backfire can shoot some oil residue up into the blue line from your PL box) you need to blow it out. It can also keep your box from sensing boost. I would say your reeds are your hard to start and poor idle problem but I think you have stuck the rings on a piston. As far as your a/f gauge not comming on (if you mean not lighting up at all) I would suspect the fuel pump (low fuel pressure) possibly causing such a load on the electrical as to keep it from coming on. Free advice, you get what you pay for. I am just guessing on the a/f gauge but the other two symptoms I have personally experienced. Good Luck!
now it won't hardly idle at all, sputters, little backfire, then dies = low compression at least one cylinder.
the PL box, on occasion, would show green/blue at idle = restriction in PL box pressure sensor tube.
as soon as turbo would kick in the boost needle would spike, then cut out, then surge again, spinking, then cut out = pressure tubing from throttle body boots to blow off valve cracked or off. (builds boost,blow off valve opens, builds boost, blow off valve opens etc.)
The engine light starting coming on as well, no pattern, sometimmes flash three times, others 6, and so on = engine coolant temp sensor or wires. (does your system have an enrichment switch wired into the sensor wires?)
Fuel pressure seems weak. Before all this it was steady at 41#, now, at 1200 RPM, it is down to aobut 25#, if I rev it to 2000rpm it comes up to 40# = low voltage or defective pump (check voltage at pump) fuel pressure at 10 psi boost?
For some reason my A/F gauge isn't lighting up either = low voltage (same circuit as fuel pump?) if so fuel pump or wiring for it.
I checked the plugs, they were loose = detonation (lack of fuel) (too much boost for fuel & load)
I would take a compression check even though what you can see from the exhaust valve ports looks good. When the green & blue are on at idle it indicates that it is sensing boost (a backfire can shoot some oil residue up into the blue line from your PL box) you need to blow it out. It can also keep your box from sensing boost. I would say your reeds are your hard to start and poor idle problem but I think you have stuck the rings on a piston. As far as your a/f gauge not comming on (if you mean not lighting up at all) I would suspect the fuel pump (low fuel pressure) possibly causing such a load on the electrical as to keep it from coming on. Free advice, you get what you pay for. I am just guessing on the a/f gauge but the other two symptoms I have personally experienced. Good Luck!
now it won't hardly idle at all, sputters, little backfire, then dies = low compression at least one cylinder.
the PL box, on occasion, would show green/blue at idle = restriction in PL box pressure sensor tube.
as soon as turbo would kick in the boost needle would spike, then cut out, then surge again, spinking, then cut out = pressure tubing from throttle body boots to blow off valve cracked or off. (builds boost,blow off valve opens, builds boost, blow off valve opens etc.)
The engine light starting coming on as well, no pattern, sometimmes flash three times, others 6, and so on = engine coolant temp sensor or wires. (does your system have an enrichment switch wired into the sensor wires?)
Fuel pressure seems weak. Before all this it was steady at 41#, now, at 1200 RPM, it is down to aobut 25#, if I rev it to 2000rpm it comes up to 40# = low voltage or defective pump (check voltage at pump) fuel pressure at 10 psi boost?
For some reason my A/F gauge isn't lighting up either = low voltage (same circuit as fuel pump?) if so fuel pump or wiring for it.
I checked the plugs, they were loose = detonation (lack of fuel) (too much boost for fuel & load)
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Okay, so if it were detonation, why would it just stop running. Everything withthe engine looks good. Did a static compression, (throttle bodies were off, but that shouldn't make a diff), and both cylinders were the same at 105#.
I'm not saying that maybe I didn't have some detonation, and I will take some corrective action for that, but I don't think that is my issue.
Once I get new reeds I'll check the other things you guys suggested.
thanks again for all the help.
I'm not saying that maybe I didn't have some detonation, and I will take some corrective action for that, but I don't think that is my issue.
Once I get new reeds I'll check the other things you guys suggested.
thanks again for all the help.
Okay, so if it were detonation, why would it just stop running. Everything withthe engine looks good. Did a static compression, (throttle bodies were off, but that shouldn't make a diff), and both cylinders were the same at 105#.
I'm not saying that maybe I didn't have some detonation, and I will take some corrective action for that, but I don't think that is my issue.
Once I get new reeds I'll check the other things you guys suggested.
thanks again for all the help.
More than likely detonation did not make the motor quit running But it will in a ugly fashion if you continue loosening plugs. Unless you just so happen to forgot to tight your plugs when you installed them, but I will guarantee that motor is detonating.
Is 105 a good number on these turbo motors? seams somewhat low but I know high boast motors run less compression.
To me it sound like a stuck ring on both cylinders, they sometimes can get stuck with any real damage to the piston.
I think its worth pulling the cylinders and make sure they are not partially seized in the ring groove.
Are you still running stock pistons? wiseco are easier to stick but will handle detonation awhole lot better.
Did the motor run with the 105 pumping pressure before shutting it off and bringing it home?
D&D's race turbo 1200 at sea level runs 120+ octane (VP Import) with 15-16lbs boost, I know higher elevations need less octane but you may still need to back off on the boost until you run at high elevations.
This just hit me, these motors have knock sensors and I believe they do go into limp mode if the ecu can't pull timing out enough to stop the knock. maybe a dealer could pull up all the fault codes for you
Knock sensors as in for detonation? I thought only the 800s had that feature?
K
Klimbing Kitty
Well-known member
Great info guys. Much appreciated
ah, well I might be wrong on the 1000's I will see if I can dig that up
Agreed, there has been some real informative threads lately, esp on Turbos. Sure am learning a lot!
Thanks to everyone who has contributed, I appreciated it. Hope we get this thing figured out.
my service manual did not come with a wiring diagram but I dug this up on a web site with a arctic cat spec sheet for a 08 m1000 here is part of it:
GRAB A HANDFUL. YOU'RE GONNA FEEL IT.
With the Pipe Sensor, Knock Sensor, and EFI mapping refinements, these engines are clean, powerful, and sharp.
•ENGINE TYPE, DISPLACEMENT (CC) COOLING AND CYLINDERS: 2-stroke, 999, liquid, twin
•BORE X STROKE (MM): 90.3 x 78
•LUBRICATION: oil injection
•IGNITION: 3D
•CARBURETION: 50 mm throttle body batteryless EFI
•EXHAUST: APV with tuned pipe, pipe sensor and canister
so it looks as if they infact they do have knock sensors (for detonation)
GRAB A HANDFUL. YOU'RE GONNA FEEL IT.
With the Pipe Sensor, Knock Sensor, and EFI mapping refinements, these engines are clean, powerful, and sharp.
•ENGINE TYPE, DISPLACEMENT (CC) COOLING AND CYLINDERS: 2-stroke, 999, liquid, twin
•BORE X STROKE (MM): 90.3 x 78
•LUBRICATION: oil injection
•IGNITION: 3D
•CARBURETION: 50 mm throttle body batteryless EFI
•EXHAUST: APV with tuned pipe, pipe sensor and canister
so it looks as if they infact they do have knock sensors (for detonation)
