Need a quick hand from anyone with a twisted setup.

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Redoing a turbo setup on my dads m7 sled that had an aero and puked so putting a garret on it. anywho, doing an oil injection deleted and wanted to use the oil pump to feed the turbo like twisted does it. got the turbo mounted up nice and high, and gravity fed lines with a decent sized resiviour inline feeding into the pump, my question is how are all the lines tied together to feed the turbo?? does anyone have any pictures of the setup or just a decent explenation?

thanks,
Nick

 

[WyoBoy1000]

The oil line from the bottom of the tank goes to the oil pump and the oil pump "out" lines go to the turbo input, the turbo output is hooked to the oil tank, twisted oil tank has a tube inside that goes forward and down so it wont suck oil upside down or on real steep stuff. I'm not sure how the lines are hooked up right off the oil pump, cant remember if they all hook together or if one is just hooked up. Make sure you drill the case and run a line to the center cavity with the check valve in it.

 

[slash]

PROBABLY JUST WITH Ys and ts you know two into 1

 

[backcountry yardsale]

On my m8 the 2 oil pump output lines t'd into 1 single line which feeds the turbo oil input. Twisted turbo facebook page has a ton of install pics and detailed instructions

 

[hatchers]

making your own oil injection to be feed for the turbo can be tricky, it seems cat used a different oil pump every year and engine size, i would find someone who has that year M7 and talk to them, im sure you know about the case feed tube right?

another thought: an ideal oil feed to these garret turbos is 1 drop every 2-5 seconds, it might take forever to purge out all the air in the oil lines, and sometimes it wont purge if you have too much air, those brass fittings are also check valves and need a sizeable amount of force to break the check ball and allow flow, or you can unplug each line and somehow jam em all with as much oil as you can, quickly reconnect all lines, then start the sled and wait forever...make sure to hold the turbo compressor so it wont spin without oil, i just use a huge socket wrench and duct tape it to the turbo as to free my hands

ill try to find some picks, but they are of a 2008 M8

 

[hatchers]

2008 M8:
-blue line is the drain from turbo res, or supply to oil pump, this line has a tiny common fuel filter found at any NAPA
-both clear lines are the supply to turbo or discharge of oil pump

 

[Radski30]

I have a Benson made pump on my M7. Shain is familiar with it, and I bet he can get one. There was a problem with the stock M7 pump pumping the oil for the turbo. I can't remember if it pumped to much pressure or not enough.

Anyway, it works much better with the benson pump installed in it. It always seems to have pressure and lubrication.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

hatch, thanks for the pictures, that looks almost exaclty like mine does, except mine has 2 outlets on the top, but i just t'd them all together to feed the turbo. as for priming all the lines. i have a pretty big syringe that makes a lot of pressure, so hooking it to the feed line into the pump and applying pressurized oil, and holding the turbo still should ideally get it moving a lot faster... hoprefully. i have delt with purging oil lines with higher pressure electric pumps and it can be a pain, luckily its warm out and should flow a lot nicer then doing this in the dead of winter.

when you say case feed tube, would you be referening to running an oil line down to the bottom oil line on the bottom center of the case? i know on the doo's when you delete the pump, to keep the shaft alive you keep a tall clear tube with oil into it for that line to make sure it has an oil bath around the bearings.

 

[hatchers]

yes the case feed remote res thing you're talking about is the similar to what im talking about, except mine is just a tube that needs not maintenance, not sure if it would work on the M7

 

[catmanm7]

Here is mine, I kept my bottom line to the motor case, I tied the 2 lines together with a T from grainger. I had a hard time finding a t (1/8x1/8x1/4) so what I did is left a piece of the stock hose on the pump, and slid a 1/4 line over the top of it. See pics. This is all on M7, you can see more pics in the member build section.

The rest of my pics may be at home. Ignore the yellow hoses, those of for fuel and oil primers. Top black hose is for turbo cooling, middle clear is top of turbo oil, and bottom is oil feed.

 

[catmanm7]

Make sure to tie the pump open so that its always pumping.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

got it hooked up last night. I dont have pictures, but will explain how i did it and my understanding of whats going on.

ziptied pump WOT, so its moving as much as it can. the m7 pump as pictured has the 2 on top and one on bottom, i just blocked off the one on the bottom and plugged the case hole. is this just the oil bath for the pump shaft and shouldnt use oil??? it seemed like i should just be able to leave that one hooked up and it would just keep oil on the pump shaft in the center, but i have never been inside of it so have no idea. it seems like leaving that one hooked up would be a good idea, i just dont want to run my very small oil resivour out if its using oil and run the turbo dry. catmanm7, i thought you have ridden your sled by now so you might have some insight to this??

hatch, i read the twisted install on the facebook page and saw the line he had pictrues of tapping into the side of the case, the part i dont get is wtf does it do??? it goes from something no longer getting oil to something that is freshly tapped into?

 

[Tonysnoo]

Here is mine, I kept my bottom line to the motor case,

The rest of my pics may be at home. Ignore the yellow hoses, those of for fuel and oil primers. Top black hose is for turbo cooling, middle clear is top of turbo oil, and bottom is oil feed.

I did mine M7 big bore similarly. Never had a problem with water pump gears. Did my TM8 the exact same way. I use about 3-4 oz of oil per ride so constantly adding clean fresh oil.

One easy way I dealt with fittings: Buy some Clippard 1/8 barb by 10-32 threaded. It takes no time to drill and tap any kind of big fitting or block to make compact custom oil manifolds. I even took a piece of alluminum and drilled it to match the top two pump outlet fittings. I then cross drilled it and installed a barb so that I didn't have a bunch of Ts in the circuit.


Hey Catman I see a hobbs switch. Does the system build enough pressure to trip it and what PSI rating do you use? (Sorry to hijack)

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

alright, so it does use oil.. well my setup is mainly just running a long section of 5/8" drain line from the turbo stepping down with a pretty large clear inline filter, so my whole system only holds a few ounces of oil. i was finding it rather hard to mount an decent sized resivour in there. i could T a large clear line into my drain tube from the turbo and use that as a sort of filler tube/resivour.

 

[Tonysnoo]

hatch, i read the twisted install on the facebook page and saw the line he had pictrues of tapping into the side of the case, the part i dont get is wtf does it do??? it goes from something no longer getting oil to something that is freshly tapped into?

I think the principle is to use the pooled up oil in the bottom of crank case and allow it to flow over to the cavity where the water pump shaft/gears live. With the pulses helping push the pooled up oil down the drain, it should work great. I've never tried it, but it's obvious there are lots who have.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

hmmm... now i get it... i think i will just hook the bottom line back up and make a small resi/filler type deal. i have seen a lot of slick little 3-4 oz bottles on doo oil delete setups which im more familiar with, so i can try to source something like that.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

The line bottom line, (the one people usually drill the case and hook back up to the center section,) When piston comes down it forces very little fluid into the center cavity and the check valve on the center cavity keeps it from leaving the center. The seals in the center cavity are more like piston rings and will let fluid pass back and forth from the center to crank case. I would do it the twisted way because its proven. I did a delete once and didn't do it and it cost me the month of feb and $1800.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

interesting... i guess the twisted way is going to be lower maintinance as its not going to allow the turbo setup to use oil which, in the case this is going to be for my dad and he preferes minimal maintinance, its not a bad idea, not having to constantly check the turbo oil level. thanks for the explanation, now that i get how it works, im more comfortable with doing it that way. time to go and do some drilling/tapping.

 

[catmanm7]

When my motor was apart, I did request for it to be drilled. Yes it does use oil, I had a lot of help from tonysnoo so everything he says is how mine is setup. I top off oil every other ride, I have boondocker tank so i definately have more oil capacity. I also used a small filter inline with my oil pickup tube right off the tank. Better safe then sorry, that is why I did it this way.
Tony- its not hooked up, and I think that one is 5psi, I need a smaller psi but will probably never hook one up anyway. Thanks for the help.

Also, are people saying twisted does NOT use the bottom of the case for oiling? Maybe he caps it off or does he do a grease zerk. I am sure things continue to change, but just wondering.
Get pics of your setup, I have changed so many things from the time I started the build until now. I have ridden half a dozen times, I am almost 90% sure that my Pure Logic box isnt hooked up right and my 2:1 regulator was the only thing that saved me. I havent had time to redo the electrical. I would like to see your setup and maybe get some ideas. Also, what turbo are you using?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Twisted drills and taps the case and hooks the line from the case to the center cavity with the oem check valve at the center.

If you drill the case make sure no debris stays in the case, most say to use grease on the drill bit to collect the left over, I would think you would drill most of it then add grease for the last little bit and maybe even poor some premix into the cylinder to wash it out.