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Nearly Vintage MM700 track length question

MPI makes a fix for this, being an aluminum tube that you drive inside the existing post

This is not a permanent fix!!! Use a piece of black pipe and hammer it into the post and weld the top of the pipe to the handle bar plate mount.................SRXtreme
 
If you are going with extovert drivers you may as well install an 01 and newer drive shaft while your in there. Also on 97-99 mountain max rear skids that have had the skid relocation kit done have some issues when going over a 144 track length. We had one with a 151 that had no ski lift when complete and a 144 sled that worked great. The 151 sled was a giant snowplow. We put a transfer enhancement kit in it and that really helped but then It liked to ratchet the track even with extros. The track had to be ran very tight to compensate for this. It was creating a lot of drag. You could really feel the difference in drag when you got off the 151 sled and got on the 144. We ended up converting the 151 sled to the 2000 and newer H arm and then it started to work correctly. Soon after we went to a 156 and it still worked great. It would really be worth getting a 2000 and up H arm and setting the skid up just like a 2000. You can go any length track with that setup no problem. If you are worried about running one of those stock 141 yamaha tracks with the crackes at the base of the lugs dont worry. They last for a long time that way. Actually you want to trim about half the paddles off those tracks anyway.
 
Good info and SWEET NAME! Look at all your green dots now!

If you are going with extovert drivers you may as well install an 01 and newer drive shaft while your in there. Also on 97-99 mountain max rear skids that have had the skid relocation kit done have some issues when going over a 144 track length. We had one with a 151 that had no ski lift when complete and a 144 sled that worked great. The 151 sled was a giant snowplow. We put a transfer enhancement kit in it and that really helped but then It liked to ratchet the track even with extros. The track had to be ran very tight to compensate for this. It was creating a lot of drag. You could really feel the difference in drag when you got off the 151 sled and got on the 144. We ended up converting the 151 sled to the 2000 and newer H arm and then it started to work correctly. Soon after we went to a 156 and it still worked great. It would really be worth getting a 2000 and up H arm and setting the skid up just like a 2000. You can go any length track with that setup no problem. If you are worried about running one of those stock 141 yamaha tracks with the crackes at the base of the lugs dont worry. They last for a long time that way. Actually you want to trim about half the paddles off those tracks anyway.
 
Great info! Now this is the kind of stuff I am looking for on this sled.

So, since I have a 141" Yamaha track (cracked paddle bases and all) is it worth buying a 144" track, or should I just use the 141"?

I have heard the 141" and 144" camo challengers work much better than the 141' yamaha track.

Ok, I'll watch for a 2000 and newer drive shaft and some 8 tooth Wahl brothers drivers. Let me know if you see one.

Yup, now I remember, I broke the drive shaft on my 98 MSRX.

Thanks

Frosty
 
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