My '06 RAW Chassis Build

[TrailRebel]

Well, I figured I'd finally post this on SnoWest, now that there is an end in sight to my build. This project started last March, I was forced to take a few months off in the middle of summer, and I got back on the ball in October.

The reason for this build started because I NEEDED to do something in regards to the ice build up problem that the '05's and '06's are notorious for, as well as the high temperatures these machines run on hard-packed trails. On the MFD, I only ever used the "engine temp" mode on the digital side, and the "normal temperature" was consistently between 145*-165*. If I wouldn't watch the temperature closely, at slower speeds and/or poor snow conditions through towns, those numbers would quickly rise to uncomforting levels...and force shutdowns in most cases. Granted, this wasn't 100% of the time, as long as I rode in excellent conditions, or any type of off trail days, the engine temperature was right on the dot near 130*. However, with tons of cooling snow, forced unwanted circumstances...a 40# block of ice to form between the rear cooler up to the bulkhead. In one instance, this block came loose and was forced further forward with the track, and wedged itself between the bulkhead and the track...I was lucky this happened at a slow enough speed where it didn't cause a loss of control. From that point on, I racked my mind into what I could do to solve both problems with one fix.

My first thoughts were to just get a double pass cooler and tie into the cooling system somewhere between the rear cooler and the bulkhead. This would definitely be the "easy way out", but felt like it may be an issue bleeding the air out, and it would add more weight to an already heavy machine. It would, however, give me the opportunity to remove the right-on-next-to-useless front radiator to compensate some of said weight, but it felt more like a band-aid than a permanent repair. Plus, I never liked the look of the rear plastic racks and they constantly broke.

My plan? Find a RAW tunnel and make it fit. This presents a lot of problems in itself. The biggest of which was how to get the coolant hoses under/in front of the gas tank. Easy answer is to get a different tank. The problem is, is that any of the newer tanks are intended for sleds that run their injectors at 58 PSI...I have a four injector '06 that runs 116 PSI...A pump that I'm pretty sure won't fit into the opening of the newer style tanks. The solution...an '07 RMK 700 tank...a hybrid, if you will, between the identical size of the '05-06 tanks and the same exact fuel pump ran in '05. The differences being the pump motor itself and the capacity. The larger capacity causes yet another issue...the steering hoop won't fit the taller tank. I could have just re-welded the tabs that keep the tank tight, but if the hoop would ever break for some unforeseen reason, modifications would need to go into it to get me back on the trail. The solution? A steering hoop/overstructure form an '07 RMK. Only hiccup would be that I'd need more parts to make it work...the console parts in front of the riders' knees. I've always really liked the way the RAW RMK's looked, so all of this together enticed me to go through with everything, and start looking for parts.

The parts list that I've used:

'07 RMK 700 tank
'07 RMK 600 overstructure
'09 Assault Tunnel top/cooler
'09 Body plastics + bumper
Stock seat
Stock suspension
'07+ bulkhead cooler
Better Boards
'07+ Aluminum console vents
'07 RMK 700 console

Without further adieu, here's my build:

The ice block




The result of the ice block




The teardown...I had a PTO seal blow out on me last February





Mocking up the new overstructure

I drilled the holes on the bulkhead where the carriage bolts are supposed to be, then used a small, flat file to square the holes off



Mock up of the '07 tank with the '06 seat




I'm reusing the sides of the stock tunnel. This way, suspension mounts won't need to change for the stock skid. I rough cut the top off, and marked the tunnel 0.741" from the top, and gave it to a good friend of mine, who put each side in a shear press and knocked it down to my exact dimensions.

 

[TrailRebel]

I'm not using the perimeter cooling anymore, as I think it would look tacky as all get out running a crossover tube near the back of the tunnel. Plus, it would be a restriction running the stock one(13/16") inline with the tunnel cooler(1"). So I cut out a hole for the newer style bulkhead cooler to run parallel with the rest of the system.




I welded up all of the holes where the original suspension brackets were, and I'm in the process right now of straightening and flattening the tunnel sides.

 

[05900]

More More More OMG that should be killer! is it done yet??

 

[TrailRebel]

More More More OMG that should be killer! is it done yet??

No, it's not done quite yet...but it's getting closer!!!

One of my other obstacles was the steering shaft and the new overstructure/steering hoop. The RAW style is intended for a straight shaft, while the '05 wouldn't be an issue because it only had two injectors, the '06 is a problem because it has four. I kept the same '06 shaft and it's mounts, and made a custom bracket at the top of new steering hoop.





The bracket is getting cleaned up and going in for powdercoating. The bracket is two pieces of 3/16" flat stock butt-welded together and each piece was bent 10* to accommodate the different angle between the shaft itself and the angle in which a straight shaft should be in the case of the newer RAW chassis'. The reason I went this route, because again, if the shaft or the overstructure need to be replaced, all modifications are bolt-on-ready.

 

[guidoxpress]

great job man.

I like the part where you kept the sides of the OEM tunnel, pretty slick idea...but you will not get any of the benefits of the newer style running board options or easy snow removal from the area...should have went with the Skinz Running boards

my only other concern at the moment, (cause you know as well I do, you don't know your issues till your at that point of the build, lol) is the steering hoop rigidity...

when I did the dragon steering hoop conversion on my 06 rmk 900 turbo...I busted that hoop in 3 different places...you MUST use the engine brace supports to get the strength, the MAG side isn't an issue and can be doubled with the OEM 900 engine brace...I see you have the one on the PTO side installed as well, but I think I tried that but it hit the secondary so I didn't use it...that was the first break I had...

second was the area where you added that plate for the steering column...I did a similar deal as yours and it busted the top of the hoop (yours looks too thin and will end up bending..trust me)...third spot it broke on me was the MAG side just above the engine brace...

what console are using, Dragon? you will have to make a small bracket that supports the console cause it doesn't touch the steering hoop like the 900 console does (you can buy it for cheap from the dealer also...

keep it up man...I have a 2010 dragon chassis I wanna do my next 900 build on, but also have a Fabcraft 900 tunnel assembly, so pretty torn on what direction to go..lol...

let me know if I can help at all!!

 

[TrailRebel]

great job man.

I like the part where you kept the sides of the OEM tunnel, pretty slick idea...but you will not get any of the benefits of the newer style running board options or easy snow removal from the area...should have went with the Skinz Running boards

my only other concern at the moment, (cause you know as well I do, you don't know your issues till your at that point of the build, lol) is the steering hoop rigidity...

when I did the dragon steering hoop conversion on my 06 rmk 900 turbo...I busted that hoop in 3 different places...you MUST use the engine brace supports to get the strength, the MAG side isn't an issue and can be doubled with the OEM 900 engine brace...I see you have the one on the PTO side installed as well, but I think I tried that but it hit the secondary so I didn't use it...that was the first break I had...

second was the area where you added that plate for the steering column...I did a similar deal as yours and it busted the top of the hoop (yours looks too thin and will end up bending..trust me)...third spot it broke on me was the MAG side just above the engine brace...

what console are using, Dragon? you will have to make a small bracket that supports the console cause it doesn't touch the steering hoop like the 900 console does (you can buy it for cheap from the dealer also...

keep it up man...I have a 2010 dragon chassis I wanna do my next 900 build on, but also have a Fabcraft 900 tunnel assembly, so pretty torn on what direction to go..lol...

let me know if I can help at all!!

The reason I kept the 900 tunnel sides and didn't go with the newer RAW was because I'm keeping it a 144"...pretty hard to find a complete RAW RMK chassis that isn't junk!!!! There are WAY more 151"+ track RMKs available. I really wish that I could find one just for the running boards, it would end up WAY cleaner, in my opinion. In the meantime, I've just received some better boards that I'm going to slap on there...

A larger concern for me as well is the RAW steering hoop. I've read numerous stories of these breaking at the most inopportune times. I'm running this one this year, I have a spare, and I plan on making one of chromoly or maybe just thicker mild steel later down the line.

Guido, I REALLY appreciate your input, it means a lot to me. I'm a big advocate of constructive criticism!!!! Keep the opinions coming!!!!

 

[guidoxpress]

who said that was constructive?? lol. jk...

i know someone with a chromoly RAW steering hoop, engine braces and the dragon running board supports that is selling them. was $200 but i bet you can work a deal.
send me a Pm for a reminder and i will send the link to you. i know him well. you will just have to redue the part where the steering column connects.

only otherthing i can see from the pics...
you BETTER not be runing those skis lol...get grippers already!! Zero pros will work fine, what about a skid setup? you can go with Assault 144 rails for direct fit and newer look, find some zero pro shocks and get the heavy torsion springs and your MONEY!

keep it up man, nothing like building your own sled the way YOU want it...i have TONZ of respect for that over some of the other so called "sled builders" out there

 

[TrailRebel]

Progress has been slow, but steady lately. Everything is going smoothly.

The suspension brackets are formed to run between the side of the tunnel and round up to the top of the tunnel, which won't work because the top of MY tunnel is now a cooler. I had a friend shear them down, so they only run up the sides of the tunnel now. I don't have updated pictures of these yet, but I had to weld the holes of the original self-piercing rivets that Polaris used at the factory to install the sled, which measure out to about .214" when the self-piercing rivet is drilled out. A lot of the holes cannot be moved over, and solid aluminum rivets need a hole about .190".


I also got the bulkhead cooler all buttoned up. This picture is with the bulkhead cleco'd up, but I used Polaris "gold", hardened rivets for the final install.


The tunnel sides are pretty much all straightened up from the welding of all the original bracket self-piercing holes. I'm playing around with sand paper grits to get a nice looking, yet maintainable finish...last year I polished the 9 to a mirror, but it starts to look like crap once it sees the trail. I'm hoping to find the best of both worlds this time!!! I'm also cutting out the foot traction dimples for the Better Boards.

 

[guidoxpress]

man this really makes me wanna do the RAW build i was planning on instead of using my extra Fabcraft tunnel...but this RAW build will be for my girl friend and be Black/Pink...LOL...

keep it up man, your doing some awesome work.

 

[Franz]

Looks like you did your homework on this thing, I will enjoy watching it come together. Keep up the good work!

 

[TrailRebel]

Here's a picture of the completed and ready-to-install suspension brackets. I was going to have them powdercoated, but I live across the street from a place that does white/yellow/black zinc plating, as well as black anodizing, so I had my parts yellow (hexavalent chromium) zinc plated...my last job, I worked with these guys daily, and they did the work for me for an OUTSTANDING price, that couldn't be beat. If anyone would like to use them, they're a job shop with walk-in's welcome, as well as daily UPS/Fed-Ex shipments.

Sussex Zinc Plating
www.szpinc.com
4940 N. 125th Street
Butler, WI 53007
262-781-4615

Ask for Jim or Kevin, let them know Justin sent you.

 

[TrailRebel]

I got some more work done today...it seems like I only have time and energy to work on this on weekends!!! I finished "rough" polishing the tunnel sides, made the Better Boards cutouts, and did a crapload of math/calculations for rivet locations putting it all together. I'm really, really hoping to have the tunnel riveted together by the end of the day tomorrow!!!

 

[TrailRebel]

Another update from my weekend progress!!! First and foremost, I'd like to address a few issues I've come across with the Better Boards. 1) The general consensus of fellow members as well as other individuals, who have installed these on the '05-'06 RMK's, are to make one single large cutout. The issue with this is that there isn't adequate room for a hole, rivet, or the drill chuck. A rule of thumb is that any (small) hole must have one-and-a-half times the distance from the edge of sheet metal to the hole center (3/16" hole needs 9/32" from edge to center). If only the windows are cutout, there is adequate room in between to install a rivet. 2) The radius of the bend on the Better Boards is MUCH tighter than that of the OEM boards. If it was the other way around, it wouldn't be an issue at all, but to get both the side of the tunnel and the bottom of the tunnel (running board) riveted, I fear that riveting the Boards on now will cause wows or kinks in the unsupported tunnel sides. The side holes are drilled into the tunnel sides, I left the bottom ones undrilled, and as soon as I have the tunnel sides, console supports, and suspension bolted/riveted in, I'll start working on finalizing the Better Boards.

Here's a picture of the Better Boards and the area that is impossible to drill straight. I drilled from the backside of them, but couldn't debur the front. I used a carbide tool attached to my dremel.



When installing the front suspension bracket, I placed a drill bit through both the holes (tunnel and bracket) to make sure they were EXACTLY aligned when I drilled and riveted. You'll be able to see a scribed line across the tunnel side, so the remaining bracket will be in the same exact spot as it was originally.


All the holes got drilled, brackets got cleco'd in.


Here's the final result of the rivets. I used aluminum solid rivets from Hanson Rivet. I ordered them long, and cut down all of them to my needs. Solid rivets need to be roughly 1.5 times the diameter long, plus the length of the base metals. If anyone wants or needs information about solid-buck riveting, just ask...I've spent more time than I'm willing to admit to in researching and practicing...It's an awesome fastening system, and truly an art. From here on out, I don't plan on using anything else in anything I do for permanent fastening.

 

[TrailRebel]

The tunnel sides/top/bulkhead is now one piece!!! The major work is done, with only a few more hiccups. The RAW chassis has aluminum lower console portions, which I have, but I need to figure out where in the bulkhead and running boards they get riveted onto. Because I'm using the RAW overstructure, the angle of which compared to the original style angle is different. This presents a problem with mounting things like the airbox and the ignition coils. I'll likely need to fab up some brackets to get these to work; but nothing too permanent, though, because I'd like to integrate the clutch guard like the RAW's do, but the wiring will be too short. This entire project has been a TON of reverse engineering, but fun, nonetheless!!!!

Getting the side lined up with the bulkhead




Top lined up to the bulkhead, and riveted on with Polaris rivets


Setting the top to the sides.



Installed chaincase, drive shaft, jackshaft, rear suspension and track.


It's coming together...

 

[guidoxpress]

Looking good brotha.

As for the raw steering hoop, it's MUCH weaker then the 900 hoop..I snapped mine in 3 places..I'm sure you will end up breaking it also, some guys had then custom made from chromoly..

When I converted to the raw belt cover (refer to my 06 900 build thread in my sig for pics)...I had to extend all the wiring as well, I used old wiring harnesses and basically made extensions so I could unplug them and it would be normal..but some did extending and I had to tap wire to wire...just be vigilant of your connections and grounds..I messed up my hand warmers the first time and it was a pain figuring that out, lol

 

[TrailRebel]

UPDATE: It's done.

I'm sorry, I had the best of intentions to document all of my progress and post it here on SnoWest. The last three weeks have been a HARD push to just get this done, and I was successful. I didn't even take pictures until AFTER I rode it last weekend.

I'll post the single picture that I have, and for those of you interested in the progress, I'll give details:

The (stock) exhaust was a concern getting back into the OEM location. With the RAW hoop, it's mandatory to run the support bars for strength, but the brackets for the exhaust interfere. The rear bracket was extended lower to a different part of the bulkhead. The front bracket needed to stay in the same location, so the support bar had to be notched for clearance. I welded part of a tube to the notched area.

The '07 Dragon RMK tank is very similar, but the differences have been painstaking. Where the voltage regulator mounts for the 900's, interferes with the tank. There was NO WAY to get around it...luckily, I bought a different clutch cover ('07+ IQ) which worked out nicely, because that was going to be the new home to ALL the electronics. The only issue with that is the injector wires aren't long enough. I did plan on mounting all the electronics to the clutch guard this summer, but I didn't think I'd need to do this to get the sled going. It's just way easier this way, because there wouldn't have been a clean location for the coils anyway. This summer I do plan on taking apart the entire wiring harness, because some of it kind of hangs out in left field under the hood...I just want to clean it up some. It is awesome not having to stuff wires and worry about rubbing when the ECM was in front of the tank!!!

The stock airbox is a definite no-go with the new tank and the 09 plastics. Before I knew I was going to NEED to use the '07+ clutch guard, I was mocking up fenders, nosecone and the stock airbox to the plenum...it does not fit nice...a lot of modification would need to go into the airbox to make it fit. My solution was to go back to the FnI intake...which is just flat out loud when trail riding...IMHO. And again, the '07+ steering hoop doesn't play nice for bracketry to hold the 900 intakes. I made a very simple bracket to hold the back of the FnI. Anyone who has installed the 09 plastics realized that the stock air plenum doesn't fit well either...my solution was to take the boot off of the magneto side, cut out a quarter inch and glue the boot back on. Done deal!!!

I mentioned earlier in this thread that I'm running the '07+ bulkhead cooler in parallel. The problem that I ran into was that the bulkhead cooler has a hose input and output of 5/8", the tunnel cooler has a hose input and output of 1", while the thermostat hose output size is 7/8". I found a tee that's 1/2" X 1" X 1" and forced the 7/8" hose onto it. I used Gate's PowerGrip SB thermoplastic hose clamps...which are awesome!!!


Hindsight is always 20/20, which has ran across my mind a lot within the past month. This next list is what I wish I would have done different with this build:

I should have waited for a 144" RAW RMK to come up for sale, and used that chassis with my bulkhead. Although I don't need a lot of running board like some of you mountain riders do, it's really nice real estate to have, and anyone can be more comfortable with more board. There's a lot more options for running boards on RAW RMK's than there is any other sled.

I put a lot of effort into making my 900 as authentic of a RAW chassis as possible...I wish I could have spent more time (and money) into buying a '08+ tank and seat. I wasn't sure if I could have gotten my fuel pump into that tank, so I settled on something I was more confident on. I could have eliminated two injectors and saved A LOT of headache...a 58psi fuel pump and a straight steering shaft.


CONCLUSION:

I rode about 150 miles on the sled so far. This thing is a blast to ride!!! It feels a lot more nimble on and off trail. I'm not sure if it's the steering hoop, the (24/41) gearing, the 5/8" suspension mod, or the lighter chassis. I don't really care. This sled was fun before I did anything to it, and it's just a fricken blast now. I hit some really nice trails and some really crappy ones, and I'd say 90% of the time, the temperature guage read 128*. On really crappy trails, I was smelling hyfax burning from passing sleds, and the temperature guage read 145*. I'm so extremely stoked about that!!! Even better yet, no ice block!!!

I learned a lot of stuff about the IQ chassis, mostly because of all the reverse engineering I've done...not to mention the excellent information on SnoWest...so thank you. To a lot of you, I envy the fabrication skills, ideas, wealth of information and dedication to our sport. To anyone who may have any questions about this build, please post it to this thread, so more people can learn from my quests, conquers, mistakes and mishaps.



-TrailRebel

 

[guidoxpress]

Good work buddy. You did a lot of what I did. It's not an easy task but very doable, there's things I wish I would have done dif as well..maybe one day lol.

As for the raw belt cover and installing electronics on it, I like it a lot, no bs wiring to look at who you don't need to...you will have to get dragon spark plug wires at custom ones, cause the 9 plug wires are too short. I can't remember what I did for the injectors, but I know I made an extension for sure..whether it was out of old injector wires or what, but it's plug and play and removable..and the VR wiring is to reach the stator, so I made another removable extension there.

Props to you, I wish I did the raw tunnel but my VE tunnel was worth it to me lol. My next sled build will be like this but a 06 RMK 700 (755) and completely raw chassis minus the bulkhead..debating on steering hoop still, I'm too burley for those things, lol.


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[TrailRebel]

..debating on steering hoop still, I'm too burley for those things, lol.

I'm a firm believer that the steering hoop just needs to be supported. Polaris intended the hoop gets supported by the aluminum console, the tunnel tube supports, the bulkhead cross supports and for it to be riveted to the "horns" of the bulkhead. From what I've seen, a lot of hoop failures are from sleds with modified console vents. I have no hard evidence backing this up, but everyone that I run this idea past, examines the hoop further and determines that "I'm on to something"...It's just my opinion!!!!

 

[guidoxpress]

Ttt for the guy asking about a raw build. This is the only official one I know of. Mountain horse never finished his I assume?


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[TrailRebel]

I thought I remembered hearing about MH parting his out a couple of years ago!

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