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Mt tamer set up?

m1kflyingtiger

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I am trying to get the mt tamer on my t-pro to hop up on top of the snow with little luck. Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as far as baseline set up to get me close?

Skid has exit shocks, 1/4" preload on the center, 1/8" on rear, limiter strap in the 3rd hole and still trenching like crazy.
 
Call Alan from timbersled he will help sort out the trenching problems. I had similar probs with my apex setup.
 
I'd be willing to bet part of it was just the snow conditiions at Lost the past couple of days. Today was terrrible for us. Afew few inches on dry on top of a crust layer. Stay on top of the srust, and you're golden. Cut through it, and you cut a trench that went out of sight! That, and if you are still running a short track (155) on a turbo, what do you expect? Ask dougie how a 155 works vs Johns 163 or 174 lol. Night and day difference. You run that much hp in the deep, you had batter have the track to go with it. Or stay in the hills on the groomed trails.
 
I'd be willing to bet part of it was just the snow conditiions at Lost the past couple of days. Today was terrrible for us. Afew few inches on dry on top of a crust layer. Stay on top of the srust, and you're golden. Cut through it, and you cut a trench that went out of sight! That, and if you are still running a short track (155) on a turbo, what do you expect? Ask dougie how a 155 works vs Johns 163 or 174 lol. Night and day difference. You run that much hp in the deep, you had batter have the track to go with it. Or stay in the hills on the groomed trails.
I definatly did expect some trenching, and I think i found a big chunk of my problem. I didn't trim the rails when I put the anti stab in and the center wheels of it were hitting the center driver. I'm really hoping that was my issue.

My last ride was Tuesday at lost with a stock pro and he wasn't having nearly the issues I was.
 
I'd be willing to bet part of it was just the snow conditiions at Lost the past couple of days. Today was terrrible for us. Afew few inches on dry on top of a crust layer. Stay on top of the srust, and you're golden. Cut through it, and you cut a trench that went out of sight! That, and if you are still running a short track (155) on a turbo, what do you expect? Ask dougie how a 155 works vs Johns 163 or 174 lol. Night and day difference. You run that much hp in the deep, you had batter have the track to go with it. Or stay in the hills on the groomed trails.
I definatly did expect some trenching, and I think i found a big chunk of my problem. I didn't trim the rails when I put the anti stab in and the center wheels of it were hitting the center driver. I'm really hoping that was my issue.

My last ride was Tuesday at lost with a stock pro and he wasn't having nearly the issues I was.
 
skid

Are you running a x1 rear shock? If so i have the same set up and the rear spring is preloaded 1/2 " just on install. Taller body cap on the x1 than the xo. Could not get any transfer what so ever. Also run the front track shock spring with amost no preload. Dealing with allan now on a fix.
 
Are you running a x1 rear shock? If so i have the same set up and the rear spring is preloaded 1/2 " just on install. Taller body cap on the x1 than the xo. Could not get any transfer what so ever. Also run the front track shock spring with amost no preload. Dealing with allan now on a fix.
Yes I am running the X1 rear shock. ill try loosening the center preload a bit more next ride. keep me posted on allens fix.
 
skid

One thing he said to try on the polaris only is that you can run the rear shock in the rearward hole in the skidframe. This will soften up and allow more transfer.
 
Just wondering if anyone has more ideas yet? I tightened up the limiter strap, and lostened the springs. Going to try softer valving tomorrow, but it's still trenching like crazy. It keeps the skis down on hard pack but as soon as I get in fluffy stuff it just starts digging.
 
timber sled

Just put on the evol and float 2 shock kit. Sent the exits back. Much better, sled pops out of the powder and does not trench. Up to your waist powder. What is your rear shock spring installed lenght with the adjuster bottomed out? Mine was 9.5 inches. It was already preloaded 1/2 " just on install.
 
Just wondering if anyone has more ideas yet? I tightened up the limiter strap, and lostened the springs. Going to try softer valving tomorrow, but it's still trenching like crazy. It keeps the skis down on hard pack but as soon as I get in fluffy stuff it just starts digging.

Did you ever get your skid figured out? Mine has been good although I am going to try positioning the rear Exit shock in the rear hole on the rails to soften up the ride a bit.
 
I've got it somewhat fugues out. Swapped out the rear spring from a 350 to a 310, sucked up the limiter strap to the second hole, and softened everything up and it does a lot better. It still needs a little work as far as playing with the clickers and front shock preload to find my happy spot. I still don't feel it gets on the snow as good as stock did, but it's close and the coupling is amazing. I've hit jumps up hill in chest deep powder, almost coming to a dead stop, and between the turbo and skid she kept the nose down and walked up and out of it.
 
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Try going to an even softer rear track shock spring. My XP 163 is running a 250 with that skid which has become their standard spring rate for that application. If the rear shock won't compress due to the high spring rate then the sled won't transfer. The skid needs to transfer in order to let the front end out of the snow. After that you can set how much coupling you desire. Let the limiter out one or two holes as well. That's right; the front of the skid acts as the pivot point about which the sled transfers. If you have it sucked up so far that it's buried in the tunnel, all of the weight is on the skis and the rear of the skid which can aggravate the problem. Allow the front shock to bear some of the weight of the machine.
 
How do you tell what spring you have?

There is a numeric code on the spring. If I remember right it's 288 xxx 1000. Now even if I got the order wrong, 288 is the diameter in inches without decimals, and 1000 is the free length, again no decimals and the other number (xxx) is going to be the spring rate in Lbs/inch.
 
Normally the spring rate is marked on the end of the spring. You will have to loosen it up or take it out to see what it is.
 
There were no numbers on mine or a slip from timbersled when they sent the new one. I took it to my local shock guy and he put it on the dyno...told me what it was, and what the new one was.
 
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