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Machine Shops who can make drive shafts?

Not everyone has the tools to make a shaft but I would think that most people know someone that has the tools to make one if you really wanted one. I would make one for a good friend to get him back on the snow. It seems that I make parts for friends all the the time on a Saturday night just so we can ride on Sunday again. What I would not do is make parts for people that I have no idea who they are and may come back and bite me in the end because it broke or something. It would be very different if I had a company insurance policy to hide behind that protected me in many cases.
 
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Although this is great outside the box thinking... I'm not sure if the solid Hex shafts would be as rigid and resist flexing like a tubular steel driveshaft would.... especially with the kind of track tension that the PRO needs to run to keep the track from ratcheting.

Flex of the driveshaft would equal runout of the QuickDrive pulley...Run-out of the quick drive pulley would lead to short belt life.

The reason Polaris went to a hydroformed tubular splined driveshaft in 2005 was not for the minute weight savings, IMO, it was for the improved rigidity of the drive shaft.

IMO... The best solution, IF you are going to substitute a drive shaft in a 2013 PRO RMK, would be a tubular driveshaft from a 2010 RUSH, 2011-2012 RUSH/SB/RMK, or 2013 Standard RMK.... of course with the appropriate drivers.

My 2 cents.

OK guys, i think this hex shaft is a good idea speaking of runout!! I just recieved a brand new 2012 shaft right out of the box. with bearings on both ends i put it in a v-block jig that i made and spun the shaft. I WAS SHOCKED THAT THE SPLINED END IS WAY OUT OF TRUE!!!

a hex shaft is can be manufactured with no runout, where is these welded and 3 piece driveshafts have loose tolerances that will not work with the belt drive!!!!
 
Any one contact cmx about there shaft and is it a direct replacement for the 13 and if so how much does it cost!?!
 
Coffee...

After I win the Powerball tonight I will pay you $50,000 to produce shafts for all the 2013 owners who have a downed sled:)

Sound ok with you?


Nope wouldn't even cover my cost to buy equipment to start producing them from home. Then I would have material cost and labor.

With a five to seven minute cycle time you would have to sell them for around $60./ea

Now you have the shaft. that is all fine and great.


Who is going to make the mold for a 1-1/16 hex drivers.

WPS sells the drivers(not sure they make ones for the pro) for $60 each. that would be $180 for the plastic

I haven't looked for drivers that would work at all.

So now you are $240+shipping for a set a drivers. Getting damn close to just going to the Polaris dealer and buying a set for one of the other models.


Plus to top it all off add 30% to the final price so someone can make a profit.
 
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Does anybody know what type of steel was used on the old style shafts and was it hardened?
 
OK guys, i think this hex shaft is a good idea speaking of runout!! I just recieved a brand new 2012 shaft right out of the box. with bearings on both ends i put it in a v-block jig that i made and spun the shaft. I WAS SHOCKED THAT THE SPLINED END IS WAY OUT OF TRUE!!!

a hex shaft is can be manufactured with no runout, where is these welded and 3 piece driveshafts have loose tolerances that will not work with the belt drive!!!!

Good catch on the 2012 shaft that you bought.

I agree that something with a lot of runout will not bode well for the belt drive.

It is good that you measured your run-out.

I know you checked the One shaft that you ordered... could be a mfg defect... could be something else like mishandling... this could also be from the bearings

With respect, not trying to be a smart-azz... your sample size (one) and the conclusion drawn from that sample may not be an indication of fitness of the steel shaft for use in the QD system.

Since your other post, I went out to the shop and grabbed the 5 different hydroformed driveshafts I have... 2005, 2006, 2008, 2010 and 2011 RUSH shaft and headed for my neighbors shop. All shafts have been used.

Found a max of 0.012" at the sprocket-spline-register run-out on those... the worst one was in a wreck.

The max on the other shafts was 0.004".

Best was 0.001" (the 2011 RMK) Using my neighbors Starrett v-blocks and dial indicator.

I don't believe that it is steel shaft construction method...but you do seem to have a wobbly shaft.

What is the max runout tolerance in the belt drive??? I don't know... but not much.

Chain drive RMK's don't have much tolerance for wobble either.

I don't see an inherent problem with the steel drive shaft and compatibility with the 2013 QD.... But I also have not sampled different new shafts from the factory.

Less reported drive belt issues than drive shaft issues.
 
Didnt read every post so maybe it was already mentioned.
Pop out those steel inserts and make a steel shaft the same dimension as the stock aluminum.....square up the ends and fully weld the inserts.
Finding material is probably the hardest part and it would need a gusset inside in the driver area so it doesnt collapse. Nothing very difficult for someone crafty with some extra time and the tools..
 
Didnt read every post so maybe it was already mentioned.
Pop out those steel inserts and make a steel shaft the same dimension as the stock aluminum.....square up the ends and fully weld the inserts.
Finding material is probably the hardest part and it would need a gusset inside in the driver area so it doesnt collapse. Nothing very difficult for someone crafty with some extra time and the tools..

X2
My thoughts as well. Being Steel, might not need the internal gussets.
 
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