M8 RGT bog issues

[Woody67]

using your handlebar button to capture "freezes the stats screen" so you can use the data to aid in tuning information. It would be difficult to, in most cases, reach the BD box to activate the capture. Your push to pass button I believe can be used for this if you plug it into a different port on the harness. When you reach your trouble spot push the button and then use the captured data to help tune it out. For example you may think you are in md fueling and when you look at your data you are actually in hi.

 

[matt159]

Regarding the capture button ...

What all does that store the stats screen doesn't? How do you review all the data it stores?

I've never really seen any discussion on here on the data capture, but I'm definatley interested in it.

When you push the handlebar mounted button (if you are in capture mode) it takes a snapshot the instant you press the button. It will have PSI, intake air temp, Duty cycle IN/OUT, RPM & indicate whether it is using the settings for low, med or hi for fuel adjustments at that point.
Link to a screen shot of a capture at idle:

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/album.php?albumid=2296&pictureid=16485

DC in 04/ out 04 00.0 psi boost. E= Exhaust Valve fuel enabled (most people have this off).
1730 (RPM) LO (fuel reference setting) 047 is intake temp.

 

[realbass]

E= Exhaust Valve fuel enabled (most people have this off).

Can you tell me about Exhaust Valve fuel mode? What for it is?
Thanks You.

Alexander.

 

[matt159]

Can you tell me about Exhaust Valve fuel mode? What for it is? Thanks You. Alexander.

Most m8's will have a hot spot about 5800-6000 RPM under "LOW" load that could have caused some problems for other people that ride my sled. I couldn't tune it out using the "Psi LOW" fuel without making it bog while coming on boost, so I added 4 points of fuel to the ExV setting & that took care of it without any additional bog. My ExV is set to 140 & +004 points of fuel. Not really necessary if you pay attention & are on & off the throttle constantly if on the trail or crossing a hard-packed lake going to the next powder stash, but it's one less thing I have to worry about. --Matt

 

[Dogmeat]

Most m8's will have a hot spot about 5800-6000 RPM under "LOW" load that could have caused some problems for other people that ride my sled. I couldn't tune it out using the "Psi LOW" fuel without making it bog while coming on boost, so I added 4 points of fuel to the ExV setting & that took care of it without any additional bog. My ExV is set to 140 & +004 points of fuel. Not really necessary if you pay attention & are on & off the throttle constantly if on the trail or crossing a hard-packed lake going to the next powder stash, but it's one less thing I have to worry about. --Matt

Great advice, I have that same issue as well at "trail cruising speeds" ...

I'll enable the ExV setting and mess with that ..

Basicaly all that is doing is adding fuel right as your exhaust valves begin to open right?

 

[matt159]

Basicaly all that is doing is adding fuel right as your exhaust valves begin to open right?

According to the boondocker instructions, it is adding those 4 points of fuel to every setting until the powervalves are open. Some instructions in the ExV section on BD's site seem to contradict themselves when referring to "open" & "closed," but the section that appears to be worded correctly says:
"Exhaust Valve threshold value. When the Exhaust valve is closed, the value will be high (165 or so). When the Exhaust Valve is open, the value will be low (less than 100). The fuel adjustment will be made when the Exhaust valve position value is greater than this value. Suggested values are between 110 to 150."
It did make mine a little fat on downhill grades though the trees (no boost) after adding fuel to ExV so I subtracted 4 points from 3000 and that seemed to put it back to "sputter free" like it had been.

 

[Dogmeat]

According to the boondocker instructions, it is adding those 4 points of fuel to every setting until the powervalves are open. Some instructions in the ExV section on BD's site seem to contradict themselves when referring to "open" & "closed," but the section that appears to be worded correctly says:
"Exhaust Valve threshold value. When the Exhaust valve is closed, the value will be high (165 or so). When the Exhaust Valve is open, the value will be low (less than 100). The fuel adjustment will be made when the Exhaust valve position value is greater than this value. Suggested values are between 110 to 150."
It did make mine a little fat on downhill grades though the trees (no boost) after adding fuel to ExV so I subtracted 4 points from 3000 and that seemed to put it back to "sputter free" like it had been.

I was running -5 on my 3000 LO and MD to get rid of the sputter .... It seemed to work pretty well on %20 race mix.

Did you adjust your Exhaust Valve threshold number at all?

 

[matt159]

I was running -5 on my 3000 LO and MD to get rid of the sputter .... It seemed to work pretty well on %20 race mix.

Did you adjust your Exhaust Valve threshold number at all?

I think it came set at 140, so I left it there. Seemed to fix my problem without any additional tweaking, so I left it alone. I was running -3 on my 3000 LO to take care of the sputter. I could have went further, but I was afraid it may make it hard to start on cold days. It wasn't affecting performance at 0, but you could hear it loading up a little. After adjusting my ExV to +4, I adjusted my 3000 LO down to -7 & it was back to it's happy self.

 

[Pastor]

They read 255 when you turn them off and start them back up again.

Clear the temp and you will get the real reading.

I do not think that is your problem.

Call Boondockers and talk to Jerod or Junior.

Have you switched fuels lately?

What EGT (exhaust Temps) are you experienceing when it falls on its face?

Sounds too rich to me but could be too lean. Too much or too little fuel and the sled will fall on its face. I am assuming too much since you are fouling plugs.

 

[Woody67]

They read 255 when you turn them off and start them back up again.

Clear the temp and you will get the real reading.

This is what I have seen on the ones I ride and work with but do you know what causes this?

 

[matt159]

This is what I have seen on the ones I ride and work with but do you know what causes this?

Not sure what causes it, but I used to see 255 as a max several times a day, but that stopped when I fixed my tail lite short due to a broken connector. Now, my max temp corresponds pretty closely to what I "capture" with the button. The solution to the 1st post from a year ago appeared to be a bad ground.

 

[brian_moreau7]

What # do you need for the "OS" number? If you want your aux injectors to come on around 9 psi, would a CR of 40 be about right?

If you take the CR # and divide it by 4.5 this gives you the amount of boost that the secondary Injectors will come on at....