m7 naturaly aspirated mod questions

[Jonathanpitzl]

I have an 05 m7 with a 153" 2.5", the things I've done so far are:
timbersled intake
2.5 degree timing key
10.4 secondary will happen this summer yet
boondocker fuel controller
egt's

I'm thinking the next thing should be a shaved head but I'm not sure if that would be alright with advanced timing and not sure how much to shave. So any info on that would be awesome.

Also if you guys have any recommendations on affordable clutch kits or other inexpensive mods that would be that great too.

 

[mbcat]

Rk-tek head, formula x-1 secondary set up, cutler adj weights, y-pipe & pipe mod. Take your pick they all work

 

[RACINSTATION]

Where are you going to be riding it? Home in MN or out west?

 

[Jonathanpitzl]

More out west than here in minnesota

 

[MT Backcountry]

RKTech Head is the best bang for the buck horsepower wise. IMOP

 

[RACINSTATION]

A good high compression head with the stock intake work the best out here.

 

[Jonathanpitzl]

How much of a difference would a shaved head do compared to rktech head? Since I'm in college I'm on a budget

 

[MT Backcountry]

Shaving Head

I would go with the RKTech head as most small engine shops don't get the squish correct (the inner combustion chamber area). It might be cheaper to get the right head for your riding area (compression wise 13.5 to 1 or less) if you want to run race gas go higher comp. 14 to 1. You can buy an extra insert for higher elevation and changes out easily for out West. My 2 cents worth. I do under stand the $ factor but if they don't get it right on the shaved head you could Burn Down the engine (lots more $).

 

[Vern]

You could send your stock head to rkt and have it recut, its cheaper than a billet head and more than just a mill job. That's what I did and its been running awesome for 8years now.

 

[Jonathanpitzl]

You could send your stock head to rkt and have it recut, its cheaper than a billet head and more than just a mill job. That's what I did and its been running awesome for 8years now.

How much does that cost? And is it a good power gain? Also thanks everyone for the info

 

[boondocker97]

Check the oil pump setting. If it is still set as it was from the factory it can be turned down a little via the linkage rod. I think I turned mine down 2 turns of a rod end.

I also have a Peak head, D&D y-pipe, single pipe, and can, stock intake, injector perfector to reduce fuel pressure (cheap, but you already have a BD box to adjust fuel with), 10.4 clutch sheaves, and an RKT secondary torsional spring setup. 3500 pull and go miles on this setup. I'll probably replace the pistons in it this year just for piece of mind.

The RKT secondary kits are out of production now, but you may be able to find a used one. They work pretty well on the M7s.

 

[Jonathanpitzl]

I have an oil injection delete and mix 40:1, also I think I can get my hand on an rktech 10.4 from a guy I know

 

[BD-Xtreme]

engine mods

Send us your head and pipe. We offer a head mod to the stock head for $180 and the pipe mod for the stock pipe. The pipe mod adds 6-7hp and it works excellent on that motor. We have even had them gain 9 hp on some sleds dynoed at Dynotech research

Pipe mod is only $249

Our clutch kit for that model is only $329 and come with our PRO Mag adjustable weights, both springs, helix, and adjustable end cap for the torsion spring conversion kit.

http://www.speedshopinc.com/index.php?id_category=33&controller=category

you model isn't listed, but we do have a lot for that model.

 

[Snowmaker10]

I have an RK Tek head with 13:1 and 14:1 domes, slp intake horn, vforce cages, Racin Station billet spider and 911 cover on the primary and DD assist and rock rollers on the secondary, stock pipe, bmp Y and a thing can. The 13:1 run great out here in CO running 100LL on that setup. I am thinking of swapping over to the 14:1 domes and a set of SLP twins.