I am doing an oil injection delete, extra motor mount, and torque stop on my 08M1K and after looking it over I can see already that the throttle bodies are going to have to be removed. My question is what is the easiest way to get them off. Do you pull the rubber intake boot first?
M1K Throttle Body Removal
- Thread starter Ausm7499
- Start date
I just pulled mine loose and shifted to the side, never took them all the way out. But with the miles on yours it might not be a bad idea to check out the reeds. but I think I just disconnected the reed housing and left most everything else attached. but I cant remember for sure.
I am going to take the throttle bodies off just so I can check my reeds and so I have more room to work. What steps do I need to follow to get them off?
Pita
Gary,
It is much easier to pull them if you pull the rubber boot in between the air box and the TB. And yeah getting to the hose clamp on the little coolant line is a major pain in the a**, if you think it is fun getting it off, you will have even more fun getting it back on when you are done. But like stated above the best way is to pull the rubber boot after having pulled the air box.
Greg
Gary,
It is much easier to pull them if you pull the rubber boot in between the air box and the TB. And yeah getting to the hose clamp on the little coolant line is a major pain in the a**, if you think it is fun getting it off, you will have even more fun getting it back on when you are done. But like stated above the best way is to pull the rubber boot after having pulled the air box.
Greg
A
Arctic Thunder
Well-known member
I think it would be easier to pull the motor mount plate from the PTO end and then loosen up the mag side and swing the motor a bit to get them in and out.
Major PITA.
Thunder
Major PITA.
Thunder
Sounds like a lot of fun. Thanks for the reply Greg and Martin.
Well I tore it all apart last night. I took my heat gun to the boot before attempting to pull it and it came out fairly easy with a little heat. I also pulled the PTO motor mount plate and I guess it was a good thing I did cause I found a hair line crack in the bulk head. After finding that crack I decided I had better pull the motor and clean it up really good so I can get it welded. Pulling the motor wasn't any more fun then pulling the throttle bodies and oil pump. I couldn't figure out how to get enough clearance to get the motor out with out pulling the recoil and recoil catch or what ever it its. I finally got it out after making a big azz mess with the coolant. Now I need to get it all cleaned up so I can get it welded this week. This has turned into a major project and I am starting to wonder how a 10K sled can be such a piece of Sh*t. I guess I am just hard on sh*t but this sled has never been wrecked and I just keep breaking stuff.
Believe me I tried several times to get it out with the recoil still on and I couldn't get enough clearance so I took it off. If I had help and a cherry picker I may have been able to get it out with out pulling the recoil but it was just me and my hands pulling it out.
J
JHG
Well-known member
There is a removable bar on the PTO side that you need to take off. It's anchored by the two bolts that hold the steering hoop, another one behind that closer to the gas tank and two or three bolts near the front of the sled. With that gone you can shift the motor toward the PTO side to clear the bulkhead when it comes out. It's really pretty easy and it should come out in about 15 minutes start to finish. You don't need to remove the recoil.
when it goes back in figure out how to parallel the clutches. the motor should have a forward twist of a 1/16". How many miles are on that thing now. Don't feel bad I got my engine mount replaced with only 1200 miles.
How do you parallel the clutches? It has probably 2600 on it, maybe a little more. Reeds look good, none of the motor mounts are torn, one power valve was quite a bit out of adjustment. For as hard as I have ridden it the motor is holding up good the chassis just can't handle it. Hoping to have it welded up and have the motor back in it this weekend. Still have a whole list of sh*t that needs to be done before its ready for the snow. Its gonna feel like a feather this season compared to last.
you have to have the alignment tool, then hold it against the secondary and it sits in the primary, then measure it on each side of the primary to see if it is twisted. My dealer just did mine and said it was twisted back 1/16. all they do though is loosen all the motor mounts and bar the motor over where they want it then tighten them and let the bar loose and check it again. Its kinda chicken chit because there is no real adjustment you just force the mounts around until they are are putting enough pressure in the right direction. on mine they have the torque arm pushed over a 1/4" and I think that is all thats holding it in alignment, at least for right now. there is a way to drop a peice of square stock into the bottom of the secondary and measure the primary but not sure on the actual measurements needed. When I get my clutch back I can through it on take some measurements but it wont be back till next week.
The other chicken chit part is they warantied the engine mount plate but charged me $100 to align, which should be covered on a new sled. I could have bought the alignment tool and done it myself in .5 hrs.
Have you kept track of how much weight.
The other chicken chit part is they warantied the engine mount plate but charged me $100 to align, which should be covered on a new sled. I could have bought the alignment tool and done it myself in .5 hrs.
Have you kept track of how much weight.
The only way I see to align the motor which I think the shops call parallelism is by adjusting the motor mounts and there is only one motor mount that can be adjusted and thats the front one on the mag side. I am planning on just bolting it back up the way it was, I had the parallelism checked a few years ago and it was good so I am going to add the extra motor mount and torque stop and ride it like I stole it. I have high hopes of getting some miles out of a belt this season, between the additional mounts and regearing theres not reason I should have belt issues. I do need to buy an alignment bar though so I can check and see how many shims I need behind my secondary.
I will be at the very least 50 lbs lighter this season. I am planning on leaving the seat in the garage this season so without it I should be around 65 lbs lighter. My bars are so high now I don't think I would ever sit on the seat so why haul it around.
My clutches where checked last year and then adjusted this year, so I would check it. you should be able to do parallelism with just a straight piece of steel stock and then add the shims once you get the alignment bar. I had my bars way up last year and it was harder to ride, seems best when you have to just barely bend a little to grab the bars, makes your whole body work instead of just your arms. I think I would take the seat in the truck just in case. Is the 50lbs including the pipe or not.
No the 50lbs does not include the 16lbs of weight lose from the pipe. Who needs a seat I hardly sit on it besides I need to make sure my legs are in good shape this spring when the snow melts and its time to start racing my bike.
One thing I did to cut down on swearing while re-installing the throttle bodies was tip the sled on it side (if your motor is out you'll already have access) and remove the belly pan. I then installed longer coolent lines so you can conntect the lines while the throttle bodies are above the motor. Then all you have to do is lower them into place and not worry about qualifying for an open heart surgery degree to re-connect them...saves some headache...
Thanks for the tips. I will definatley be buying some longer coolant lines that should make it go together pretty easily.
