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M1000 mountain riders what helix you running?

AaronBND

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Don't want to turn this into a clutching thread, just want to know what M1000 guys are running for a helix angle in the mountains for boondocking and hillclimbing? I have a slightly modded M1 that I am playing with clutching on and am thinking of going from my 40-36 to either a straight 40* or a 44-40. What will I feel "in the seat of my pants"? I could care less about running 60 down a trail, I want all the horsepower I can unleash for deep-powder days, boondocking and hillclimbing at 5-8K. Please be sure to list your elevation for reference. If does no good to talk about it, if we don't know what you ride.

Aaron
 
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i tried a number of setups...completely different clutches from well known names.....best driven so far....black diamond 40 degree helix, with the adjustable face plate, stock orange spring with shift assist....pulls hard every where....not too much for good backshift, good tree setup....good open hill setup also....out pulls everything else on a powder pull across a meadow, assuming the engines are comparable...:eek::face-icon-small-hap
 
what elivation are you at with the straight 40? I am running a 40-36 bmp at 10k ft and not real impressed with it might have felt stronger stock?
 
44/36 Helix from SLP. Riding mostly 8k to 10k feet. This is with SLP pipe setup and Sno Pro airbox intake. The only other setup I've tried was the stock 36 degree Helix. 44/36 was recommended by my dealer after they tried a combination of 6 other setups. Of all the different things I tried on my 1000, this was by far the most noticable change that I did and I have no desire to try anything else at this point.

After my 1st ride on the 1000 with the 44/36, my shoulders were sore after riding. That was the first time I'd ever been noticably sore after a good ride. The 44/36 really pulls hard in the steep :).

Also, I removed the small plate behind the driven clutch (little protective plate in case the clutch comes off) and I put two small SLP flow rites just above the foot well. I did this at the same time as putting the 44/36 Helix on. I put over 600 miles on a 046 belt and all of the riding was in deep snow conditions. Clutch/belt temps were much lower than before. I don't know which mod had the biggest change on the temps, but both changes worked great overall.
 
i tried a number of setups...completely different clutches from well known names.....best driven so far....black diamond 40 degree helix, with the adjustable face plate, stock orange spring with shift assist....pulls hard every where....not too much for good backshift, good tree setup....good open hill setup also....out pulls everything else on a powder pull across a meadow, assuming the engines are comparable...:eek::face-icon-small-hap

What mods do you run, stock or ???
 
is anyone else running the straight 44? Those of you that are what have you done to your sleds and what elevation do you ride.
 
i tried probably 4 or 5 different helix's last year and i really liked the BDX 39/35 progressive i tried for awhile... 35 sounds low, but the 35 degree portion you'll never see unless you are doing 85mph down the trail. the majority of your time is spent in the 37* shift area and the setup worked really well. I tried the same helix but in a 42/36 progressive and i didn't like it as much. got a little lazy feeling. Perhaps a 40/36P would the best, but i didn't have one to try.
 
I'm putting in a 38/34 as we speak, after speaking with Cutler for a while that was what he suggested. Cutler orange spring with his torsional conversion and a 38/34 helix. Also throwing in his 75-85 adjustable primary weights. Sled is ported, SLP piped, etc and I'm 275 w/ backpack and gear
 
CPC torsional, straight 38, 7-10,000 feet, Intake mod only. Great up and backshift, much better shiftout at low speeds/rpm.
Feels like it will pull a 40.
I have always seemed to have better luck with a single angle helix.
 
CPC torsional, straight 38, 7-10,000 feet, Intake mod only. Great up and backshift, much better shiftout at low speeds/rpm.
Feels like it will pull a 40.
I have always seemed to have better luck with a single angle helix.

Good to hear! This morning I ordered a straight 40* and also a 44-40 to see what I like better.

Aaron
 
Ive tried a few setups. Twin pipes M8 gears, 4-6k. On the DDsecondary I like the straight angle helixes best. I think the best all-around has been a 38. I use Dalton style weights with most of the weight in the heel. Strong pull, very linear, and great backshift in the pow and minimal slip
 
What mods do you run, stock or ???

aggressive trail port, sw y-pipe, stock pipe, cpi can...i find the stock pipe is only 1.5 hp less than sw pipe, but has much broader torque curve...sw big air with additional mesh-covered holes for air....dropped front skid mount about 3/4 inch and let out the straps all the way.....stock weights in the drive, with a black silver/white spring with a delrin washer between spring and face plate....dyno on my sled is 186 at 7280 rpm...i'm clutched to hit 7300 at 9500 ft in 1 ft of snow on a moderate incline....the torque peak on my engine is at 6780 and the max hp is 7280....lots of room for clutching variations due to altitude and snow conditions....most of the time i'm hitting right at 7300 rpm, so i may change the primary spring to something slightly softer or add a gram of weight to the driven..:)
 
Aaron, have you got any seat time with the straight 40 yet?? I was just wondering as I ordered that helix also.

I actually just got it in the mail yesterday. I haven't put it on because I am converting to the TEAM spring setup and want to try my 40-36 with that setup first. I am going to try a 44-40 and the straight 40. The snow just sucks here right now. Started off good like we were gonna get started early this year and petered out. Now it's a frozen over base of about 30". We need powder...........

Aaron
 
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