M1000 - Mag Side Cuts Out

[cles]

2007 M1000 - SW exhaust, Boondocker and EGTs. Last year, I had a problem with occasionally dropping a cylinder in the mountains, but it never happened at home (2000'). Over the summer I sent my BD box in to get reprogrammed and resealed. There is finally enough snow to try the sled out...and now its dropping the mag side around home. It does it after cruising at around 6000 rpm for 1/4 mile or so, and also when I punch it after being at 5000 rpm. Seems to run fine otherwise. I tried changing plugs...no difference. I checked connections...they seem fine (I have put dielectric grease on all of them). The mag side also runs between 30 and 50 degrees cooler than the PTO side, regardless of where I have the trim set at.

Any ideas on what I have to check to get rid of this??

 

[WyoBoy1000]

some egt temps and plug color at that rpm would help.

You can add or take fuel from one cylinder at a time, I'd say it is loading up and running to rich. Take some fuel away at the rpm its cutting out at. most sleds when you run under 6100 before the power valves open will run pretty hot on the egts. When the P/V are closed the extra fuel can't get out and fouls the plug, thus the need for higher temps in that range to burn off the extra fuel. On the bd box there is a setting in each rpm range called (tr) for trim what it does is it takes or adds fuel on the mags side only (I think its the mag side any way), so if your dropping the mag cylinder, at what ever rpm its dropping set the tr at -3 and see how it does.


read this post http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119890

 

[cles]

When it would run long enough at this rpm, plugs are a tan to light tan color, with no black on the electrode at all. If anything, this seemed lean to me, so I added up to +15 (in steps) on the lo and mid...it made absolutely no difference on the plug readings. This was after 2/3 of a mile, turn around, 2/3 of a mile back and hit kill switch. EGT's when running on both were around 1125 and 1075. Once it cuts out, readings are around 850 and 450. Adjusting the trim made no difference to the mag side.

 

[SLEDIOT]

When it would run long enough at this rpm, plugs are a tan to light tan color, with no black on the electrode at all. If anything, this seemed lean to me, so I added up to +15 (in steps) on the lo and mid...it made absolutely no difference on the plug readings. This was after 2/3 of a mile, turn around, 2/3 of a mile back and hit kill switch. EGT's when running on both were around 1125 and 1075. Once it cuts out, readings are around 850 and 450. Adjusting the trim made no difference to the mag side.

What you are saying is exactly what I went thru yesterday with my 09 m1000. Yer temps are even within a few degrees of what I was seeing. We are actually running to fat on the bottom end. Im going to turn my fuel pressure down another lb and add fuel to my mid range and topend with the controller. The sled actually gets stuck at about 6000rpm when its over fueling. Im going to figure this bastard out yet I promise!!!!!!!!! I havent seen any help from AC yet.......

 

[cles]

What you are saying is exactly what I went thru yesterday with my 09 m1000. Yer temps are even within a few degrees of what I was seeing. We are actually running to fat on the bottom end. Im going to turn my fuel pressure down another lb and add fuel to my mid range and topend with the controller. The sled actually gets stuck at about 6000rpm when its over fueling. Im going to figure this bastard out yet I promise!!!!!!!!! I havent seen any help from AC yet.......

Yup, mine will plink away on one cylinder between 5600 to 5900, no matter how much throttle I give it. The only way to get out of it is to let off for a couple of seconds...then hit it again and hope it gets thru to the good rpms!!

 

[Bearcat]

My pal bought new -09 M1000. It had issue with plug wires. One wire had chafed against something and caused cylinder dropping at lower rpms. Replacing the wire fixed the problem. It ate also a lot of fuel when it bogged!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

your temps are cooler on the same side its dropping the cylinder, thus you should lean out that side and get it to run the same temp as the other. it is hard to read plugs when power valve are closed. Also just for kicks reroute the tube coming out of the ecu a few times to see if it changes anything. Make sure your tac reads the same as the one on the bd box they can very sometimes and then you'll have to tune off of the bd tac. You also might have to add or take fuel in rpm ranges other than that specific one.

 

[mphfreak]

My pal bought new -09 M1000. It had issue with plug wires. One wire had chafed against something and caused cylinder dropping at lower rpms. Replacing the wire fixed the problem. It ate also a lot of fuel when it bogged!

Heard of this from more then one guy. check the plug boots that are near the pipe, at night you can see if it arcs idling. could be your problem.

 

[mountain man]

your lucky

Be lucky your not burned down. I bought a hold over 2007 M1000 all stock and only have 58 miles and the sled had burned the Mag side down twice, my dealership can't find whats wrong!!!

 

[smoothdawg]

I am leaning towards something electrical. Thats almost a 500 deg spread between the two. My opinion is if its leaning out on that side it would be running hotter. Scaldedcat had a problem with one of his connectors on his BD box coming partially unplugged by the injector.The wire inside the BD connector that plugs into the AC plug had backed off just far enough that it wasn't making contact. It looked like it was fine as 3 of checked it out but wasn't. Also check for chaffing on the wires running along your fuel rail.

 

[9071000]

this sounds to simple to work but mine was bogging in the deep stuff and all i did was move the tube on the computer around under the heet shield.she hasent bogged sence.there is a thread on here about a guy who fixed his m7 bog the same way.as far as the temps being different i think its the computer going into limp mode cause it doesent like what it smells.hope this works

 

[blackt]

I'm having the exact same problem with my M7. I have a Speedwerx 800 kit, exhaust, reeds, etc. At the same rpm and same circumstances (steady speed for extended time) and I lose my mag side as well. Same temp differences as well. If you stop and let it idle do they balance out??? Also what was it like from a dead stop?? Could you stab the throttle and it would jump pretty good?? Mine would from a dead stop or as long as I was on and off the throttle. Mine is at the dealer as we speak. My buddy works there and figures they can figure it out. Both he and I think its an overfueling problem.

 

[cles]

I put the stock pipe and can on tonight and it ran fine. Actually it ran better than it did with the SW pipe and can. The mag side was only about 10 to 20° cooler than PTO. The egts were 50 to 100° higher with the stock exhaust on...it gets REALLY hot at 5800 rpm...over 1250° on PTO. I don't know how much higher it would have gone...I got off the throttle when I saw red. (The red display on the Koso is nice and bright at night!!)

I had the first reflash done, but not the second. I think I'm going to get the cpu updated and start over with Speedwerx 2008 BD numbers.

 

[cles]

I'm having the exact same problem with my M7. I have a Speedwerx 800 kit, exhaust, reeds, etc. At the same rpm and same circumstances (steady speed for extended time) and I lose my mag side as well. Same temp differences as well. If you stop and let it idle do they balance out??? Also what was it like from a dead stop?? Could you stab the throttle and it would jump pretty good?? Mine would from a dead stop or as long as I was on and off the throttle. Mine is at the dealer as we speak. My buddy works there and figures they can figure it out. Both he and I think its an overfueling problem.

They do balance out after it idles a while. When I hit the throttle, it would come off idle clean, but would often hit that 5800 rpm wall and drop the cylinder. After killing it, the plugs on the mag side were wet, so I started thinking it might be electrical. But after checking all wiring and connectors (twice) and trying it with the stock exhaust, I guess I'm back to tuning.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

its getting to much fuel on that side, the stock pipe raised the egt temp means its running a lot leaner than you where with the pipe. record the stock egt temps then put the pipe back on and try to get the same egts...

 

[SLEDIOT]

I just turned my fuel pressure regulator down another 1/4 turn, which is about another 1 psi of fuel pressure. I then brought the fuel back on the top end by 1-1/2 points and 1 point in the mid range on the pure logic box. Will test this weekend and report back.

 

[2THEMAX]

I just went through all of the same symptoms on my 09 1000. Mine turned out to be the computer. But make sure you are running everything back to stock becasue thats what I had to do. All stock except egt's. Dealer finally figured that the computer wasn't sending powervalves right signals, therefore adding a pile of fuel to the mag side cylinder. JUST ANOTHER SUGGESTION FOR YOU GUYS!!!

 

[jeffro]

I just went through all of the same symptoms on my 09 1000. Mine turned out to be the computer. But make sure you are running everything back to stock becasue thats what I had to do. All stock except egt's. Dealer finally figured that the computer wasn't sending powervalves right signals, therefore adding a pile of fuel to the mag side cylinder. JUST ANOTHER SUGGESTION FOR YOU GUYS!!!

I've often heard of the need to put it back to stock for warranty work... WTF? That seems like a real pain in the *** to me. IMHO They should warranty stuff *if* it's their fault/responsibility- Mods or not..

So... are you saying I need to take off my RK-Tek head & SLP pipe & can? The pipe is no problem, but the head? Then, what about the holes & vents & clean air kit? How do you put back cut-out plastic?

I need to find a Mod-friendly dealer who will just git-'er-done!

 

[2THEMAX]

I know it is a pain in the ***. I did it about ten times. But the main point for putting it back to stock is to eliminate all the aftermarket products from the equation of what is wrong with the sled. As for vents, just cover them up with tape or something of that matter. Then you can prove to them that it is an absolute stock problem that they have to pay for and repair.

 

[blackt]

Not sure if it matters in your case but my dealer had my M7 trying to figure out the same problem as yours and they finally narrowed it down to overfueling it bad. Had a guy test/tune it for a couple hours and they said it's awesome now. Smartened it right up and turned it into a screamer!!! They were tuning a 2008 M1000 at the same time staock except for a can and reeds and a boondocker and my little 800 will hang with that 1000 according to them so I'm pretty hyped to go get it. All they did is just kept dropping the numbers one at a time in each rpm range til the egts and the plugs were good at each rpm range. Hopefully thats all thats wrong with yours too.