M series clutching-why does it engage with a BANG?

[Frostbite]

I have ridden two 09 M8s now and one 09 M1000.

One thing they all have in common is when you slowly hit the throttle the clutches don't engage smoothly, they engage with a BANG!

I'm not of fan of clutches engaging like this, especially in deep snow because it will tend to dig a big hole and in some cases get you stuck.

I am a complete neophite when it comes to Arctic Cat clutching but, on a Yamaha I would get a primary spring with a lower engagement rating or lighten up the clutch weights a bit or go to a larger clutch roller.

What can be done on Arctic cat clutching to achieve a smoother clutch engagement?

Also, when I grab the secondary clutch there is a bunch of slop back and forth (fore and aft). On my Yamaha I'd just tighten the chain to get rid of some of that slop. This may be a part of the clutch engaging with a bang too.

Can slop be taken out of the Diamond drive so the secondary doesn't have so darn much slop?

I'm sure there has to be a way to make the clutches engage smoothly?

 

[ICLIMB]

Mine does it too. Some of the times I think its transitioning from the "reverse" cut to the other ramp on the helix. You could try to lower the engagement but I don't believe I've seen anything lower than 120. That yel/wht engagement is the best from what I've experimented with.

No adjustment in the DD that I'm aware of.

Just ride it, it came with a warranty didn't it

Good luck

 

[SLED2SHRED]

Mine(08 M8) does the same now with the mods. It didn't do it before it was really smooth. I rode a 09 M1000 and it seemed smooth and oh man what a track. Time for another sled.

 

[smoothdawg]

Here is what I have found Frosty. There are two reasons, the first is the belt deflection is too loose [add shims behind the aluminum hub behind secondary bolt, you'll see the shims when you take the aluminum hub off and flip it over]. The second has to do with the electronic reverse which is the most prominent problem. You will notice the space between the two ramps on the helix, fwd/reverse. After deceleration the helix is left in the middle of these two creating the bang you are hearing upon take off. If the deflection is off as noted above it raises the engagement rpm thus making the bang louder. My 09 1000 does this as well.

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks for the info and of course, I can just ride it but, I would sure like to figure out how to remedy the engagment bang.

Someone on here must have figured it out, right?

 

[smoothdawg]

I don't see a permanent fix other than redesigning the helix.

 

[TNTCOPP]

I put a gold spring in the primary on my wifes '09 M8 and I think it helped out that issue in addition to hard engagement she didn't like at lower rpm's.

 

[TREE_MAGNET_777]

Check your side clearance of your belt to the primary clutch. If there is too much clearance slp sells a shim kit but the clutch spider must be removed to shim. think of it as when your clutch engages if there is alot of clearance the clutch gets a run at your belt before it engages and has more monentum before it contacts the belt. this is also hard on the crankshaft. I like to get three brand new belts and set the clearance at .005-.000 on the widest one. this may be just part of your problem but hope it helps....Garry

 

[SLED2SHRED]

So would I be a fool riding around a 08 with a 09 helix?

 

[JHG]

A Cat Gold spring will help the engagement. Best thing I have ever done to my sled. Amazing for tree riding(clutches don't disengage everytime you slow down), and solves some low end bogging problems(I think by loading the motor earlier). Give it a try, it's worth the 20 bucks.

 

[mtn_extreme]

Guys have it right, gold primary.

 

[Frostbite]

Ok, I'll try a gold primary spring. Can someone please link up a Arctic Cat spring rate chart? I'm completely in the dark on this so far.

Don't you have to have spider removal fixture mounted to something very substantial to get them apart?

1. Gold primary spring
2. Primary clutch belt to sheave distance - minimize to .005-.010"
3. ?

I wonder if a guy could use the Cutler adjuutable weights as one of a series of things to diminish the abrupt clutch engagment?

If you loaded the heel of the weights very lightly so they engage more softly and load the daylights out of the midrange and the load the tip so you hit your target shift RPM. Hum?

Helix angle? I wonder if it has a role in this? I doubt it because there really isn't any load on the engine yet as the clutch is engaging but, you'd think a lower helix angle might engage a bit easier?

Do the M series sleds before the event of electronic reverse have this same abrupt clutch engagment?

 

[Icedog]

Yep AC gold spring; the rate is 75/275.

 

[mrquick68]

Frosty, though the gold spring will help, do the following first (some have been mentioned already):

1. Adjust your deflection correctly. slight track spin when on the stand...
2. Check belt to sheeve clearances - should be around .020. if its higher then you should look into reshimming the spider. SLPs kit is not a good answer though, if you end up having to go this far, just machine the factory spacer by you how much you want the clearance to be reduced by. FYI - Cat clutches never live long after being torn apart. Lame, but just the way it is. This is the last resort.
3. Do this before machining anything - often the factory tightens the nuts that hold the weight axles (bolts) too tight. back them off and lock tight them.
4. try the gold spring - it is a good spring if you like real low engagements.

 

[Evil Revo]

I believe the bang or clunk is soley the DD. Take off you secondary and twist the DD shaft. There is alot of play. This is the clunk. The helix and engagement have nothing to do with it.
If you take off very slow and smooth you won't hear the clunk.

 

[bones1075]

I do not think its the DD, Ive had several and until my 09 I never had a clunk. I beleive that its the reverse cut helix. I've got proper deflection, but if for example I let it downshift then get back on it BANG. I can prevent it if I really watch my engagements or keeping the clutches engaged.

 

[Evil Revo]

I do not think its the DD, Ive had several and until my 09 I never had a clunk. I beleive that its the reverse cut helix. I've got proper deflection, but if for example I let it downshift then get back on it BANG. I can prevent it if I really watch my engagements or keeping the clutches engaged.

If you keep the drive train tight you won't hear the clunk. Just like your saying.

 

[Dam Dave]

on the 09 its worse, and I think it is the reverse helix, when you stop the rollers come off the helix, then when you take off it slams back in, maybe a torsion setup would help.

primary belt clearance, check with a brand new belt but that hasn't been a problem on newer 08 and 09 sleds, should be about .020, SLP shim kit wont work on 09 sleds, its for 05-07 sleds

 

[1Mike900]

If it is banging, Don't expect the crank or rod bearings to live too long! The shock load will raise hell with them.

Mike

 

[runhard]

It is the helix !

On the 09 models the cut in the helix for reverse allows the rollers to " slam " if you run it on a stand you can watch the helix. If you coast to a stop it wont slam but when you stop with the brake it slams the helix into the reverse notch then when you go to take off it has to travel back to the foward side and you get the " Bang " Its a nasty noise i know that !

I have ridden two 09 M8s now and one 09 M1000.

One thing they all have in common is when you slowly hit the throttle the clutches don't engage smoothly, they engage with a BANG!

I'm not of fan of clutches engaging like this, especially in deep snow because it will tend to dig a big hole and in some cases get you stuck.

I am a complete neophite when it comes to Arctic Cat clutching but, on a Yamaha I would get a primary spring with a lower engagement rating or lighten up the clutch weights a bit or go to a larger clutch roller.

What can be done on Arctic cat clutching to achieve a smoother clutch engagement?

Also, when I grab the secondary clutch there is a bunch of slop back and forth (fore and aft). On my Yamaha I'd just tighten the chain to get rid of some of that slop. This may be a part of the clutch engaging with a bang too.

Can slop be taken out of the Diamond drive so the secondary doesn't have so darn much slop?

I'm sure there has to be a way to make the clutches engage smoothly?