Lower shock bolt upgrade

[Jon Mutiger]

Well, I also now have a better front ski bolt.

This ski bolt has the shank of the bolt all the way through the ski saddle, so better load transfer through the bolt into the saddle. That should result in the saddle being elongated less.

If you have a new kit, I'd think about it. If you have an old kit, there's really no point since the hole is probably not even close to round anymore.

Same price for this bolt into the USA as the other, $6. But into Canada I'll have to price on a case by case basis as the shipping across our great country is horribly expensive.

Jon

 

[C-man]

Just paid for mine! Thanks John.

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Just an update, my supplier of bolts has run out of the Ski bolt in their western warehouse. I suspect they aren't used to selling this many bolts. There are still a few left in Canada, as well as some in their Eastern warehouse. So the lead time might be a bit longer as most of us are in the west.

Thanks for the support guys, I didn't think I'd move this many bolts. At least we all should be able to ride more and tinker less now.

Jon

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Well, the western warehouse isn't expected to see more bolts until Nov. 28th.. The east still has stock, but I'm not sure for how long. In the aircraft world the ski bolt is a unique size, thus the low stock levels.

If you haven't already upgraded your lower shock rod bolt, or ski bolt, I would do it sooner than later to avoid issues while out in the backcountry.

Upgrading the ski bolt will help prevent stretching of your ski saddle. I can assure you any year old kit has one round hole, and one oblong hole. This bolt will help prolong the life of the saddle.

For those of you in Canada, The Canadian warehouse is also out, but expect more November 10th. I have some in transit to me in the lower mainland (Vancouver area), and about 5 are available still from that shipment.

(I just checked the drilled version of the ski bolt, and there is stock of those in the west. They are bit more expensive, but we can discuss on a case by case basis)

Jon

 

[Comp 670]

Just got some ordered from Jon. Thanks for providing a great solution to a problem that SHOULD be addressed at the time of production.

 

[Jon Mutiger]

I just got word back from the supplier and the fact that one warehouse has some and the other doesn't really matter.. The product will auto drop ship from the other warehouse at no additional cost. It'll just take a bit longer for the second package to arrive.

To everyone with a 2015 kit who thinks they don't need this, you do.

Jon

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Well, there are lots of these bolts out there now, and still more available.

If you own a kit and haven't upgraded your lower shock rod bolt, it'd be smart to do it before you get too far into the backcountry.

Jon

 

[Plain Steve]

The bolt's,nut's and washers arrived yesterday. Thank you Jon. I think
it was $12 well spent instead of having to run around trying to find them
on my own.

 

[Adobe-Al]

Jon, Thanks for getting me those bolt so quickly. Do I use the large flat washer on the ski bolt with a small washer on the outside of the flat washer?


Thanks again, Al

 

[Spike89]

Thanks Jon!

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Al,

Yes, the big washers up on the ski saddle then one smaller one between the bolt head and the nut. IF you have to, you can useone stock washer to ensure you ddon't bottom the nut on the shank / grip area of the bolt.

A few early purchasers only got 1 small washer, Isscrewed up a wee bit in my calculation.

Jon

Jon, Thanks for getting me those bolt so quickly. Do I use the large flat washer on the ski bolt with a small washer on the outside of the flat washer?


Thanks again, Al

 

[mnsnowhawk]

The big washers you sent for the ski are huge. Not gonna use them. I'll have to find something different. I got the bolt, nut, 1 small washer, and the 2 huge fender washers.

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Do you figure just 4 of the smaller washers is the way to go? I agree they are huge. I can adjust what I send everyone from this point forward.

In this catalog, there isn't an in between size unfortunately.

Jon

 

[mnsnowhawk]

I haven't tried to bolt up yet. Still working on bearing upgrade. I'm guessing just having all small washers would work.

 

[41racing]

After reading this thread I took a look at my '14 st. Strut rod bolt hole is fine as of now but the ski bolt is another story. The head side if the bold has deformed the hole in the ski saddle. Looks like I'll have to replace the saddle now. Notice how the aluminum above the hole is pushed upward. The other side of the saddle is the side that had the threads and it is fine. I'm thinking it must have taken a pretty tough lick at some point.

 

[350scott]

If you'd like to source your own replacement bolt the correct bolt is a 3/8" Grade 8, 2 3/4inch. This will give full shank engagement. The only problem is the bolt will be to long and you will have to cut the threaded end and the clean the end. Easily done in a few minutes with a hacksaw and file. You'll need also need two standard washers.

 

[Jon Mutiger]

I've sent out a heck of alot of bolts over the past month. I suspect most kits out there are now upgraded.

Let's get out and try to break these new ones!

 

[Adobe-Al]

After reading this thread I took a look at my '14 st. Strut rod bolt hole is fine as of now but the ski bolt is another story. The head side if the bold has deformed the hole in the ski saddle. Looks like I'll have to replace the saddle now. Notice how the aluminum above the hole is pushed upward. The other side of the saddle is the side that had the threads and it is fine. I'm thinking it must have taken a pretty tough lick at some point.

I went through two saddles last year. One was a bonehead move, the second was do to lack of proper torque. It is very important to get proper torque.

 

[41racing]

So this one was probably due to not being properly torqued. I has already removed the mh and was riding the bike on dirt and their was an impromptu memorial weekend trip so the mh was thrown back on very quickly

 

[honkuscracker]

And what is proper torque so as not to screw up the saddle?
Thx