Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Lower shock bolt upgrade

Thread Rating
5.00 star(s)

Jon Mutiger

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I'm sure a few of you have your kits unmounted and can visually see what I'm about to describe

The lower shock rod mounting bolt supplied with timbersled kits is less than Ideal. The shank of the bolt ends mid way through the shock rod spacers. I've got some aircraft nuts, bolts and washers to replace this bolt. The ones I'm talking about have full shank engagement for both sides of the timbersled frame mount, and full support of the spacers to avoid bending/twistingand ultimately breaking.

Contact me if interested.

In our group we have seen failure of this weak link. I would highly recommend everyone looking at theirs before going into the back country.
 
Last edited:
I had one break last spring (on a 13 kit). Turned out OK, but a little interesting to have it happen at 40 mph. Fortunately just 5 miles from the truck, so just repurposed the chain tensioner bolt for the ride back.
 
Its a good idea to replace the 3/8", grade 8 bolt twice a season for reliability and I carry a spare with me.
 
Short shank bolts

I've noticed this on a couple different kits available that I've dealt with 2moto and Timbersled both have multiple applications of bolt threads riding on a bearing surface. I've also seen it on rear skid manufacturers products as well, Ez-Ryde. The ones that I've noticed have been ski saddle to ski pedestal bolt, track shock mounting bolts, and the track bike shock replacement end bolts. Seems like something that would be caught by design engineering. Threads get crushed allowing more movement between bolt and bearing surface and the wear is amplified. I expect better from a production product.
 
I also broke the lower strut rod bolt on my kit a couple years ago. I didn't even realize it was broken until a group of sledders were checking out my kit and one of them said "hey it looks like your lower mount is bent". It was hanging on, but each end of the bolt was turned upward, so you could definitely see that the bolt was very bent, if not broken, in the middle. It made it through that day without letting go completely, which was probably pretty lucky. I picked up a new bolt plus a spare at Ace and haven't had the same trouble since.

That was my first year riding my bike-kit combo that I had purchased used. I've always theorized that the previous owner, when installing the kit, didn't tighten that bolt when he was installing it and the slack allowed extra movement that weakened it. It's not hard to forget to tighten that one after the install is done. Last year I forgot to tighten the brake caliper bolts for my first ride... I lost one bolt and almost lost the other. The brakes sure acted weird until I figured out what was going on. ;-)
 
I replaced that bolt on day one before I even rode the kit. I also got rid of that chump ski bolt they give you for the same reason and replaced it with a full shank grade 8.

M5
 
I replaced that bolt on day one before I even rode the kit. I also got rid of that chump ski bolt they give you for the same reason and replaced it with a full shank grade 8.

M5

This happened a few years ago , didn't realize what happened till I got back to the machine and picked it up with the ski pointing a different direction . I left a polite message with the manufacture about the weak point in the bolt using the threads as a support of what the shank is for . On purchase of the latest ski I thought it was pretty funny that they still sent me the same short shank long thread bolt as before .

Pretty funny thinking about it now but wasn't going to go down that rabbit hole again .
 
Well, I have some good news for those of you in the good ole USA! I can drop ship these bolts direct to you at the following SHIPPED costs.

These costs are MOSTLY shipping.

Paypal accepted.

Prices in US Dollars,

This includes 4 washers, 1 full shank bolt, 1 Nyloc nut. All aircraft grade, all designed to replace the lower shock rod bolt that is a known weak link.


$6 each bolt kit, shipped Via US Mail

$30 for 6 bolt kits, shipped via US Mail

$60 for 25 bolt kits, shipped likely via UPS, maybe USPS.

PM me for my paypal address.

Thanks guys!
 
Yes, this would be the bolt that goes through the kit, into the lower strut rod, and back into the kit.

You want to make sure you have full shank right through the kit so there is no induced sideloading. Typical bolts aren't available with the right shank length, that's why I sourced out these AN (Army/Navy) aircraft ones to fix the problem before it becomes a problem.
 
And now for some long awaited pics!

First is stock vs. the Aircraft version
------------------------------------- Aircraft Version installed, with 1 washer under the head, and 3 under the nut
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Finally stock bolt installed.

2014-10-21 17.48.16.jpg 20141021_174214-2.jpg 20141021_175057-1.jpg
 
AGREE .Every new kit I have bought same problem ,replaced strut rod bolt and the front shock upper mount bolt to the flex arm.and ski saddle to spindle mount bolt ,I really hope this gets resolved for the 2016 kits (Blaser this is for you )
 
Last edited:
Are your replacement bolts metric? Any chance anyone has replaced the entire kit with metric bolts? I saw a post once that listed out every bolt size you would need but I can't find it.

I would love to only carry metric wrenches instead of both.
 
The pictures I posted are from a brand new 15. The new bolt is a stronger one than in past years but it still isn't ideal.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top