Just did the RK Tek piston and head kit on my buddies switchback and while it was apart, I noticed the stock reeds were starting to chip. He ordered V force 3s and when I put everything all back together and adjusted the tps to spec, it wont idle at all. Got to keep giving it throttle to keep it running. Plugs are wet with fuel. Gonna pull them and put the stockers back in and see what happens.
LOW IDLE AFTER INSTALLING V-FORCE-3R REEDS, ANYONE ELSE??
- Thread starter Sheetmetalfab
- Start date
G
geo
Well-known member
Mines a '13 Bob. Pretty lean in this natural on off throttle area compared to yours. I was over 20% added fuel in some spots stock.
What I've seen with '15's is they are pretty spot on stock.
If you have the ability to add a half a gram at a time to the mid shift you may find the cure. I always try to get to the point of too heavy and come back.
Some thing else just came to mind. There is a thread about dielectric grease on the TPS wiring plug (mine is different than yours again). Some have found it may "float" the pin connections and cleaning it out cured constant det.
This was not my issue.
FYI I tried about 5 different chemical sprays (did my 'putor connections just cuz too) and a bit of air to get rid of that stuff and it just spread it around leaving white silicon on the pins .
I then tried Spray Nine on a farmer's advise (they usually have good advise lol) and spitz-spritz and a bit of air followed by a spitz of water and air. All gone and shiny new connections.
What I've seen with '15's is they are pretty spot on stock.
If you have the ability to add a half a gram at a time to the mid shift you may find the cure. I always try to get to the point of too heavy and come back.
Some thing else just came to mind. There is a thread about dielectric grease on the TPS wiring plug (mine is different than yours again). Some have found it may "float" the pin connections and cleaning it out cured constant det.
This was not my issue.
FYI I tried about 5 different chemical sprays (did my 'putor connections just cuz too) and a bit of air to get rid of that stuff and it just spread it around leaving white silicon on the pins .
I then tried Spray Nine on a farmer's advise (they usually have good advise lol) and spitz-spritz and a bit of air followed by a spitz of water and air. All gone and shiny new connections.
How do we tell the old style stiff vf3 from the new style vf3? - besides the crapy idle I mean lol
Vf3= first generation
VF3R= new improved, and they might still need a breakin period
VF3R= new improved, and they might still need a breakin period
its disappointing to buy vf3 reeds only to find out I should have bought a controller box at the same time.
Stock pedals slightly burned tips on my stock cage ran far better than the VF set I installed.
I can understand that not every aftermarket performance part works on every machine or even similar machines , I read the add and I read the instructions but it's annoying .
Stock pedals slightly burned tips on my stock cage ran far better than the VF set I installed.
I can understand that not every aftermarket performance part works on every machine or even similar machines , I read the add and I read the instructions but it's annoying .
Mine seem better after 2 rides in this year. I did go -18 on idle. Everywhere else seems better than the stock ones.
I see people say they are taking fuel away at idle but my boondocker box only starts at 2500 rpm does this effect the idle?
When you make adjustments that change your fuel or air intake you have to adjust the tps. If you don’t it could idle low or high, either or. Especially before you put a fuel controller on, if you don’t it’s not going to be used to it’s full potential.
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Can you explain this? How would you know how much to adjust it? The tps that is. I set mine several times to factory spec and it'll idle fine for about 2 minutes after riding it but then idle down and die.
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I'm not seeing this help me out?
On the 2011 assualt I put a 12 v bat to power up the electronics of the sled I confirmed 5v at the red white wire.
At the blue black wire I set the TPS to specs then turned up the idle screw to get to .940 I seem to remember all this was done withe the throttle cable released and idle screw backed out.
Now this being done I feal to change the reeds or do whatever as long as you don't bump or adjust the TPS housing and leave the throttle cable connected and don't mess with the idle adj that's all going to be fine no matter what you mess with?
I suspect cranking up the idle a bit wouldn't change the 5v or the 700 - only the pre set 940 part would change? I just thought do whatever changes or repairs now as the TPS is set am I missing something?
It sounds like you guys have set them before but you make sure the butterflies are both equally adjusted and level. You set the tps between .690 and .710 with the idle screw all the way open. After you set the base setting it’s all for idle and throttle response. You set the tps for idle between .930-.950, .940 being the best number (in theory). My experience is every sled reacts different. So you set it to .940 on every sled and warm it up to operating temp (120 or so) then you adjust the idle to where you need it. If you are adjusting the idle when it’s cold, the computer is changing the fuel ratio till it gets warm, another reason to let the motor warm up before you touch the throttle. With everything I have seen, turbos, high comp head, pipe, they all say in the instructions before adding the controller, adjust tps to desired idle before installing this controller.
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Thanks for the run down on that theory, I found on the 2011 assualt at 940 that I had a consistent idle at 1800 rpm once it was warmed up, upon cold start up 2200/2400. Also it started first pull right after this process compared to about 3 pulls before the adjustment, I think part of this is due to having the fuel line pressured up from powering up to do the adjustments? Once the sled sat outside in -15 c temps a few days it was back to taking a few pulls to start but dam the warm up rpm and warm idle was worth the effort.
I thought I would post what worked for mine. I was close to pulling them and then read this. This is what ended up doing it for me. Idles like stock now. I think part of my problem was using the controller itself. I think I was doing something wrong. Happy with the reeds now though
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