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Low Elevation Clutching

My SKS came from dealership with clutching for 6-8k feet like everyone else's. I'm trying to decide what to do as far as low elevation clutching as much my riding is off trail in the UP of Michigan. I have read the other threads and manual and see that Polaris recommends 10-70 weights and gold spring. Curious what other people are experiencing with similar situations. Is stock setup pretty good? Im confused by the use of the straight 40 helix, Im used to higher multi angle helixs in these team clutches. Anyone have experience running steeper helix in these sleds? As far as weights im considering 11-68s mostly because I have them laying around.Also considering a set of adjustable set from indy specialties to dial it in. Im open to any thoughts or suggestions and Appreciate any input. Thanks
 
Tried the 10-70's and gold spring with the factory helix today at 1400'. Was only able to pull 8150 but only have 50 miles on my 17, not sure how much of a differenct the break in period makes.
 
This topic has been beaten to death. IMO just run the stock factory recommended set ups. I have close to 900 miles on my 16 axys with half of those at ~1500 ft in the UP of Michigan in which I ran the gold spring and 10-70s with no issues and consistent 8300 rpm.
 
This topic has been beaten to death. IMO just run the stock factory recommended set ups. I have close to 900 miles on my 16 axys with half of those at ~1500 ft in the UP of Michigan in which I ran the gold spring and 10-70s with no issues and consistent 8300 rpm.

I completely understand what you are saying and I agree that stock setup works fine. Im just curious if there is a better way to set it up for the midwest riding rather than conventional factory setup of just more weight. Looking to see if using a steeper helix will allow me to run possibly lighter weights(68g) and still pull good rpm and maybe better performance for the typical midwest rider that still needs to ride trails somewhat and isnt always in 10 feet of powder.
 
Tried the 10-70's and gold spring with the factory helix today at 1400'. Was only able to pull 8150 but only have 50 miles on my 17, not sure how much of a differenct the break in period makes.

It will come alive after break in period :)
 
On my 16 it took around 8-10 hours on the sled before it pulled the RPM that it should. On my 17, I have 6.5 hours on it and it's starting to come alive but still has a ways to go.
 
I have been riding my SKS with SLP pipe at 2000' with 10-70s at 8400RPM, could probably go to 72s but I'm not to fussy about my flatland setup since I don't ride it there to often. It rips the way it is!
 
Get indy (dan) specialies clutch set up. Best I tryed, pulls very good and very snappy.stock and slp setup would get belt slip, not this setup. Very happy.
 
I completely understand what you are saying and I agree that stock setup works fine. Im just curious if there is a better way to set it up for the midwest riding rather than conventional factory setup of just more weight. Looking to see if using a steeper helix will allow me to run possibly lighter weights(68g) and still pull good rpm and maybe better performance for the typical midwest rider that still needs to ride trails somewhat and isnt always in 10 feet of powder.

That is exactly what did after the Not Very Exciting Straight 40 helix

I'm running 68s with SLP Green/Pink spring and 52/40 helix and don't quite remember secondary spring numbers but it's the Black/purple

Absolutely rips with 22/39 gearing and does 8350 rpms all day at 6-900 feet

Probably will go to the 70s after break-in
 
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