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Lost RPMs

Engine quits pulling at 6800

A few weeks ago my primary was sticking so I pulled the clutch and did some polishing to the shaft and bushing and cleaned and scuffed the sheaves. Everything was sliding nice and free so I put it back on and then also set belt deflection because I had wrecked my 115 belt and put on a new 080 around the same time as the clutch issue and the 080 was to tight. I also took the stock can off and put a SLP can on . Now before the clutch sticking i was running about 7800 at WOT with the 115 belt and stock can. Today I got to go for a ride finally today and the trails were very hard and icy but flat and the best I could pull was 6850 rpm. It would get there quick but level at 6850 or so and it felt really flat and had very little acceleration once it topped out. Could there be something that I did while working on the primary or adding the can that could lose me 1000 rpm or is this a new problem that coincidently popped up just now? Im no clutch guru so I could really use some advice
All springs and helix are stock. I have 81g weights and a 719 helix on the way but not installed yet.
 
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dude...81g weights...WHY?

whats your riding altitude...

is the clutch rebuilt now? you need to do a full service on that primary if you had sticking issues..you might have bad rollers and sacked out clutch springs..

replace the springs in both primary and secondary, use a derlin washer on each side of the secondary spring..

make sur eyour primary is shimmed for the belt you are using NOW..the 080 and 115 belt are very different in specs..you should be using the 115 belt ONLY, IMHO..

and get your primary balanced if you have not recently...a MUST...
assure you have proper belt deflection as well..(and the p/n# on the belt is facing you when installed ;))
 
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man there is no way 81g weights should work that is way too much unless you have a turbo. even at sea level polaris calls for 10-74 or 11-72 with a 120lb-340lb black green spring. check your rollers in the clutch they are probably worn out from all that weight.
 
The 81g might be a little too much but its pretty common for the flatlanders to run 78-80g with the 05 fusion 900. Thats not the issue though. I havent changed the helix or weights yet. The sled was running 7800 and now its running 1000 rpm less and all i did was clean up the primary, change over to a 080 belt, and add the slp can. Valves were just cleaned. The sled runs fine it just tops out at 6800 now. What could cause a drop in RPM's?
 
have you changed your clutch springs...if they ahev not been changed (every season) they can "sack out" or loose their spring and you will get a differnet final rate and in turn will lose rpm...replace your springs and set the new and old side by side and compare, then install new. and report back
 
if you lost rpm after you serviced the clutch then you probably messed something up. or the spring may have broke. pull the primary off and inspect it completely. you probably have flat spotted a roller or broke a spring. also the 1080 belt is softer and grabs the clutches better so you can loose as much as 200 rpms just switching between the 115 and 080 belts.
 
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The 115 belt is softer requiring less power. Your RPM's should be in the 74-7500 range for an 05, you're loosing power at 7800. That is sustained rpm's and not the max that is saved on the screen, the engine will over rev a couple hundred rpm and come down when drag racing for example. The 81's are way too much! Drop to 72-74. I like to run epi 76's at home and drop to 66-68's in the mountains
 
Yeah I know 7800 is to high and thats with a stock helix which is why i am going to try the heavy weights. But the problem i have now is that its topping at 6850. What happened for me to drop 1000 rpms.
 
Yeah I know 7800 is to high and thats with a stock helix which is why i am going to try the heavy weights. But the problem i have now is that its topping at 6850. What happened for me to drop 1000 rpms.

DUDE...

i dont mean to be rude, but there has been PLENTY of very insightful inputs to where to start looking for your issue..its in your clutch..you need to rebuild it most likely..a simple cleaning once a year is not enough..

we cant continue to post replies if you neglect to try what we suggested.
 
I was just replying back to someone who was trying to help me with the wrong problem. I am just looking for as many ideas as possible. Maybe something other than clutching. I have springs ordered and on the way.
 
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It looks like both clutch springs are fine. I know the 080 belt is softer and will drop RPMs but it seems like there has to be something more significant going on for that big of a drop. Valves are coming out tomorrow for inspection. I might have goofed up now when working on the secondary. When putting the roller assembly back on the splines, do you have to have it lined up exactly like it was? Will a tooth off make a difference?
 
It looks like both clutch springs are fine. I know the 080 belt is softer and will drop RPMs but it seems like there has to be something more significant going on for that big of a drop. Valves are coming out tomorrow for inspection. I might have goofed up now when working on the secondary. When putting the roller assembly back on the splines, do you have to have it lined up exactly like it was? Will a tooth off make a difference?


yes the rollers have to be lined up but if you got it on it was lined up there is one wide spline and it will only go on one way.
 
I finally got it figured out. One of the orange valve diaphragms were ripped bad. I popped in a new one and from what I can tell the rpm's came up drastically. I cant get a top rpm check because while removing the cover on the valve I dropped a deep well and it went under the motor somewhere and apparently found the steering linkage because now I cant turn left. Jesus! Whats next! I tipped the sled on its side and shook the hell out of it and it did get the socket loose but after putting around the yard for a few minutes it stuck in again. Now what? I cant see the socket at all. Can I drill the rivets in the belly pan to get under the motor?
 
your best bet is to remove the primary, you can get your hand under the motor once removed .try using a magnet may help also . removing the skid plate will not help you on this chassis there is no inspection hole on the bottom of the bulk head
 
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Use a magnet after freeing steering without removing primary.You may get lucky....or not...then try the above ^^^^^ then pull it over on it's left side and shake. Cuss ALOT it helps!!
 
I ran into the same problem on a friends sled.The bolt was not under the motor but up in front of the motor where the steering linkage is.

The way we got it out was to undo one of the tie rod boots and use a flashlight and magnet to get it out.You will need someone to tip the sled up on its side part way to get the bolt to move to where you can get it.I found that if you tip it up too far it falls in where you can't get it.

Hope this helps.
 
I did check the front already by removing the cloth boots but I didnt see anything. I guess I will have to try and fish around with the magnet under the motor. They sure dont leave any room to work on these things. Thanks for all the advice guys.
 
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