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KOSO Wideband O2 on M-Series ?

iahegdal

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I am having problems getting a KOSO WBO2 to startup (initialize) on a 09 M8. Once I do get it to the point where it reads A/F numbers it works fine. There is a thread on the "Performance" forum with details.

Does anybody have first hand experience with a KOSO on a 09 M-Series? How about 07 - 08 M-Series?
Has anybody been around a KOSO working on one of these sleds?

TIA
 
first - i believe the KOSO is DC, so i don't think a rectifier is needed. I had problems getting mine to work and found it i had to reverser the polarity and then it worked fine. Go figure? Well, i've only let it idle so far, and at low idle speeds it seems voltage is a little low for it to read. I'd like to see this discussion keeping going on here though.
 
I would like to see it continue as well. I started a thread on DC power as I was informed 09s produce AC only. Previous models Ms are DC output. I will list the questions i have. I am doing a build on an 09 M10 and have a KOSO A/F gauge. I want to be able to install it and have it work correctly first try.

1.do we need some type of conversion (cat has a kit for 09 specifically for this/not available yet contains a DC regulator)

2.do we need additonal power (battery source) it seems as though the sensor heater needs good steady batter power to heat correctly

3.best place for o2 sensor no turbo
 
Well i ride an 08 M1000, so mine should be good to go.

but yes, i heard the same thing about the AC on 09s.

i don't think so with the battery, but???

And the best plan i've understood to put the 02 is in the input tube of the can. that's where i put it.
 
You should either wait for Cat to produce the Rectifier/Voltage Regulator or install a battery and run your AC accessory wire to the battery and then run 12v dc to the gauge and the sensor. Install a switch to the sensor so you can turn the sensor on before starting the sled. This will give you a more accurate reading as well; and prolong the life of the sensor.

I have an 09 Crossfire and have been working through this issue for the last few weeks. I tried installing an AC/DC converter with out the regulator...not so much! I'm going with the battery idea...the AC accessory will charge the battery ( still will need to charge the battery fully occasionally). They tell me if you warm up the sensor first you will get a much longer life out of the sensor.
 
Is it easer to tune with a o2 sensor? or egts Ive never used the 02 Ive had egts
on several sleds but they aren't perfect and it can get real expensive real quick.
 
Update - KOSO went to the trouble to borrow a 09 CF8 (they couldn't find an M series in their part of Canada on short notice) to test the instrument operation/compatibility. It worked fine for them so the sent me a replacement. I put it on (by now I had moved my gauge to an 07 M8 and had been having the same problem as with the 09 M8). I had 100% successful starts (11 of 11) when just out of a warm garage. I also had 100% (10 of 10) after sled had been outside for about 1.5 hours at 5*F ( -15*C). The display is a little slow updating at this temp but this is also 5*C below low temp specification for the gauge.

So in response to my initial post , I can say I have seen the instrument work fine on a 07 M8 and I think it will be fine if I ever move it back to the 09.
 
At this time I don't have any plans to put it back on the 09. I put it there initially to get stock baseline A/F numbers that I could use to tune the modified 07 to.

The only tie in to the sled is for 12 vdc power. I'll post pictures later, I need the scale them down for this site.
 
iahegdal,
Would you mind posting the A/F numbers you got on the stock sled?? I too am puting on a Koso A/F gauge and am curious what you got for stock mapping.
 
sorta related, but i don't think i'd use stock AC A/F ratios for a baseline on an M8. 07 and 08 M8s ran VERY rich, much like the M7s did. The 1000s though seem to be much closer at WOT to perfect. SO, instead - you'll need to find what works the old fashion way on the M8. Plugs and wash - or choose an A/F ratio that you think is ideal (lazy way) and match that. 12.4 non-turbo comes to mind? is that right? :confused:
 
I started out planning to get numbers for L/M/H engine loads at the following Boondocker set points (5,000 - 6,700 - 7,800 - 8,100) but that can be tough to do out in the wild on a low light day. What I found was a very consistent 13.2 at idle and, basically, irregardless of the RPM a low load was about 14.3, medium load was about 13.5 and pinned was about 12.5. Now none of these various load numbers is static at the number listed, a couple of times I saw 11.9 at wot depending on what load and rpm I was coming from and at all load settings the numbers often fluctuated plus/minus 2-3 tenths. This was for a stock 09 M8.

I feel that if I try for the same ranges on my 07 with modified intake, pipe, head and porting that it should be safe. The A/F tuning will be done in conjunction with Digatron EGT.

What I am interested in avoiding is engine damage on that once or twice a year perfect day when it takes 7/8 + throttle to break trail on the flat and the only way to make progress up a hill is to poach track and turn out.
 
those numbers sound very typical to what i've seen listed else where. sounds like the 09 M8s are running leaner than the 07s and 08s. Good to know - just be careful when adding mods!
 
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