Who has one of these installed on an M? Where is the best place to get DC power? Where are you mounting the guage itself?
Koso Air/fuel Guage on M series??
- Thread starter mmurray70
- Start date
I have one on my 07 that is working well. On this sled I tapped into the RED/BLU wire feeding the brake switch, on the Cat wiring diagrams this is labeled "Low Power Bus". The unit is mounted to the top-front of the steering column facing up, it is easy to read while standing, harder to read while sitting. I'll post a picture later today. I did install an on/off switch in the power feed circuit to the KOSO. I start the sled with the switch off and once started then turn the power on to the gauge.
Photos 1,2 & 3 are the install on a 07. Photo 4 is on an 09, this install got in the way of the mountain bar use.
Photos 1,2 & 3 are the install on a 07. Photo 4 is on an 09, this install got in the way of the mountain bar use.
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Can you explain where you install this. How does it read o2/fuel? Is this better than using EGT's? I realize together is best, but alone which is better.
Thanks
Ed
Thanks
Ed
Evil, most people suggest air/fuel over EGT's these days. Its a simpler process, less variables.
I had a look at my sled last night. Found the Big red wire comming from my voltage regulator, this would be DC right? And I found the red fuel pump wire which i know is DC, but smaller and probably less current capacity. Also found the acessory plug, yellow brown i think like other cats, in the past these were always AC but I have heard different things about newer sleds. Sled isnt running yet so I cant really check. Which should I use?
I had a look at my sled last night. Found the Big red wire comming from my voltage regulator, this would be DC right? And I found the red fuel pump wire which i know is DC, but smaller and probably less current capacity. Also found the acessory plug, yellow brown i think like other cats, in the past these were always AC but I have heard different things about newer sleds. Sled isnt running yet so I cant really check. Which should I use?
MBMS,
The main expansion chamber was recommended by Justin Barnes (Code Red Performance) and SLP. One comment I received recommended the inside radius of the pipe, here is the text -
"We found that on 2-Stroke engines it is best to mount the sensor in the inside of a bend, with an extended bung, so the sensor tip is just flush with the inside of the exhaust wall. This minimizes contamination by oil droplets. Zentri***al forces in the bend tend to keep the oil droplets near the outside of the bend radius, away from the sensor."
I didn't receive this until after I had welded on the bung on the outside radius. All things considered I would do the install the same way next time because it makes routing the wiring much simpler with the sensor where I put it.
Regarding 09 power, many folks have posted that 1. There is no DC and 2. The DC ampacity is two low to support the gauge. I'll post pictures of where I tapped into DC. Regarding capacity, I consistently measured 14 + vdc at the input to the KOSO at idle. This tells me that the KOSO was not loading the sleds DC system enough to pull the voltage down. I was having KOSO problems, but I was having the same problem on both the 09 and the 07. By the time I got the replacement unit the gauge was installed on the 07 and I haven't needed to put it back on the 09. After receiving the new KOSO I have not had any more problems on the 07. I have no reason to think it will not work on the 09.
The main expansion chamber was recommended by Justin Barnes (Code Red Performance) and SLP. One comment I received recommended the inside radius of the pipe, here is the text -
"We found that on 2-Stroke engines it is best to mount the sensor in the inside of a bend, with an extended bung, so the sensor tip is just flush with the inside of the exhaust wall. This minimizes contamination by oil droplets. Zentri***al forces in the bend tend to keep the oil droplets near the outside of the bend radius, away from the sensor."
I didn't receive this until after I had welded on the bung on the outside radius. All things considered I would do the install the same way next time because it makes routing the wiring much simpler with the sensor where I put it.
Regarding 09 power, many folks have posted that 1. There is no DC and 2. The DC ampacity is two low to support the gauge. I'll post pictures of where I tapped into DC. Regarding capacity, I consistently measured 14 + vdc at the input to the KOSO at idle. This tells me that the KOSO was not loading the sleds DC system enough to pull the voltage down. I was having KOSO problems, but I was having the same problem on both the 09 and the 07. By the time I got the replacement unit the gauge was installed on the 07 and I haven't needed to put it back on the 09. After receiving the new KOSO I have not had any more problems on the 07. I have no reason to think it will not work on the 09.
Iahegdal, what year is the sled in the pic? Im assuming thats the voltage regulator right? My voltage regulator looks completly differnet and its mounted way back below the servo motor. Has the same three heavy wires though, yellow brown and red.
So if i use these I should be fine? Anybody know if i need to splice into both? Can i just use the red and ground the other one to the chassis?
So if i use these I should be fine? Anybody know if i need to splice into both? Can i just use the red and ground the other one to the chassis?
I need some help guys asap. We have snow now and my guage dont seem to work. I spliced in the same way as shown above. My regulator was different and its mounted in a different place but it still has a red, yellow and brown wire. I got power from the red and brown but it wont initialitize. I tried hooking it up to a 12v battery and it works fine. What do I do?
So red from the voltage regulator and chassis ground? Interesting. Im kinda doubtful but ill give it a shot I guess. Easy thing to check. What kind of battery are you guys using?
I'm getting intermintent startup on my Koso and i connected it to the accessory plug on the steering column loop. It probably starts 4 out of 5 times. it also doesn't like to always give me a ready - sometimes it gives some weird number like 97R or something like that.
Is my location OK for connection? Any other comments?
WHen it does work it seems to work fine and give accurate numbers as well.
Is my location OK for connection? Any other comments?
WHen it does work it seems to work fine and give accurate numbers as well.
Are you sure about this? I had a look at the service manual, looked like this red wire supplies power to the fuel pump and servo motor which are DC. The three wires look to be the same setup as the new style.
I read in another post that the Koso guage has a rectified built in so it can run off AC anyway, can anybody confirm this?
I`m pretty sure ther is AC from the V.reg that`s located behind the engine in front of the gas tank. I`m dealing whit a M6 06 theese days. Can just find AC from the voltage regulator. Think the fuel pump is running AC power.
The newer models have a Voltage regulator whit a AC/DC converter mounted in the front of right shock tower.
For the new models ther is a accesoris plug behind the cover over the steering collum. One black, and a red/blue wire.
According to the Koso install manual, it has to have DC power.
J
JHG
Well-known member
Mine always starts up fine but then gets stuck in the heat cycle like you're explaining with the 97H. Mine usually gets stuck at 96H. I put an on/off switch in like with my hot wire. Now I start the sled and let everything come up to op. temp then turn the gauge on. 9 out of 10 times it will go through the heat cycle and start reading right away. If it does get stuck you can turn the switch off to reset it instead of turning the sled off. Mine is running off the red wire coming out of the fuel tank behind the metal plate in front of the steering post.
I did some tests tonight and found out a few things. Sled is an 06 crossfire 700 and I taped into the red and black wires directly from the regulator. I checked these tonight with a voltmeter and they are indeed DC. Voltage around 13v or so.
But my guage would not initialitize from this at all. Not once, even after multiple tries. Numbers would be all over the place and eventually I would get an error. Even measured voltage with the guage hooked up and it was still fine. And the guage always works fine from a battery.
So I was thinking the problem pretty much has to be the fact that the voltage is noisy/inconsistent. I had a huge power supply capacitor kicking around and I tried placing this across the wires to smooth things out and sure enough, guage powers up perfect. No more inconsistent numbers or errors. I just had it running in the garage, dont have enough snow for a big test. But im pretty confident that the inconsistent DC voltage is most of our problems considering I went from never having a sucsessful start to it working fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this without having a huge capacitor or battery on the sled???
But my guage would not initialitize from this at all. Not once, even after multiple tries. Numbers would be all over the place and eventually I would get an error. Even measured voltage with the guage hooked up and it was still fine. And the guage always works fine from a battery.
So I was thinking the problem pretty much has to be the fact that the voltage is noisy/inconsistent. I had a huge power supply capacitor kicking around and I tried placing this across the wires to smooth things out and sure enough, guage powers up perfect. No more inconsistent numbers or errors. I just had it running in the garage, dont have enough snow for a big test. But im pretty confident that the inconsistent DC voltage is most of our problems considering I went from never having a sucsessful start to it working fine. Any suggestions on how to fix this without having a huge capacitor or battery on the sled???
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