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Khaos stock shock settings?

Rob.G

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Does anybody know what the shock settings are (mainly for the fronts, but for all would be nice) for a '23 Khaos? I want to check mine and compare to see what they should ideally be set to. Only one ride so far and it acted weird... on flat ground it acted like it wanted to tip over in the opposite direction when steering, but when I WANTED to tip it, it didn't want to. Weird.

Thanks.

Rob
 
Does anybody know what the shock settings are (mainly for the fronts, but for all would be nice) for a '23 Khaos? I want to check mine and compare to see what they should ideally be set to. Only one ride so far and it acted weird... on flat ground it acted like it wanted to tip over in the opposite direction when steering, but when I WANTED to tip it, it didn't want to. Weird.

Thanks.

Rob
Honest question is this your first time riding a modern sled let alone a matyrx chassis?

You do realize that if you’re on flat ground or any ground for that matter and you turn it to the left, the sled will tip to the right that is the benefit of this chassis and that is what is called counter steering.
 
You are correct; first time on a modern sled. :)

I'm familiar with countersteering; I was a decent rider on an M7 years ago. But this thing is a whole different animal.
 
You are correct; first time on a modern sled. :)

I'm familiar with countersteering; I was a decent rider on an M7 years ago. But this thing is a whole different animal.
Cool man! Welcome to the new sled gang👊🏻

You’ll definitely be frustrated in the beginning and probably be over riding the sled which is totally normal coming from an M7.

It’s gonna take some time on the sled and just remember they react super quick to counter steering and it really just comes down to being comfortable on the machine.

Your shock settings do matter, but at the end of the day it’s not gonna make that big of a difference. It’s more that you’re just having a bit of experience shock because of the new chassis. 👍🏻
 
Cool man! Welcome to the new sled gang👊🏻

You’ll definitely be frustrated in the beginning and probably be over riding the sled which is totally normal coming from an M7.

It’s gonna take some time on the sled and just remember they react super quick to counter steering and it really just comes down to being comfortable on the machine.

Your shock settings do matter, but at the end of the day it’s not gonna make that big of a difference. It’s more that you’re just having a bit of experience shock because of the new chassis. 👍🏻
Believe Balazs! He's been riding for 3 or 4 years and he still hasn't figured out how to ride a "modern" sled🤭
 
Short answer, factory setting is 4 clicks on high speed and 6 clicks on low speed (from full stiff). Spring lengths are dependent on rider weight but factory sets for riders 160-220 lbs. Long answer is in the attachments. Pictures taken from a 2023 RMK manual.

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Thanks a ton for the info and the pics! That's great.

What I've experienced so far... keep in mind I had a very bad experience so this is gonna sound pretty negative... is that this thing handles more like the 2003 Ski-Doo Rev that was my very first sled (sold it after one season). That thing would either stay stuck to the flat ground or tip all the way over. There was no in-between. It was difficult to steer on flat ground (with the skis) and was just not at all fun. The M7 was the complete opposite.

This new thing... like I said, when on the trail, if I turn to go right it felt like it wanted to tip over to the left. Yeah, countersteering. BUT... when I'd get it on a hill and need to get it up on one ski, I would do like I did on the M7 -- standing centered, just apply a little bit of pressure on the floorboard and the M would come right up and be super easy to hold. This thing wouldn't budge AT ALL. If I got both feet on the board and gave it some counter steer and pulled HARD it'd come up a little. Very hard to keep on anything resembling edge. This is why I was asking about shock settings... maybe they were set too stiff.

On my M7, I had a 3" riser and a nice lefty. The thing worked GREAT. But now I'm told by everybody that the opposite is true. No more lefty, and you want the lowest bars possible. I've watched tons of sled videos.. Burandt, Kesterke, Turcotte, Muskoka Freerider, Next Level, etc, and it seems the "new thing" (to me anyway) is the whole opposite-foot-forward thing. It seems that the only way these things are gonna get on edge is if you do it that way. If I could get my bars up another 2-3" it'd make a world of difference for me... but I went to do that and discovered Polaris doesn't give you ANY free cable to play with. I have the mid bars on mine... I thought for sure you'd get the same length cables and wires that came on the high bar models in case you wanted to change. Nope.

My next problem... at 55, I desperately need to hit the gym, and my knees aren't what they used to be. So the opposite-foot-forward thing is gonna be a problem. My right knee is the worst one, and I have a feeling that I'm gonna start trying to ride like that and my knee is gonna fall out from under me. This makes this sled a complete no-go for me.

I'm going out again this coming weekend... I'll try it again, but to be honest... if it's not a significantly better experience, I'm just about ready to sell the thing and walk away.

Thanks for the advice, btw... I really do appreciate it. So much better than Facebook where you'll get 30 replies and 25 of them will be from jerks and five won't understand the question.
 
In low or hard snow conditions sleds are a lot more to handle. Normal season with good snow. Things will be a lot easier
 
Thanks a ton for the info and the pics! That's great.

What I've experienced so far... keep in mind I had a very bad experience so this is gonna sound pretty negative... is that this thing handles more like the 2003 Ski-Doo Rev that was my very first sled (sold it after one season). That thing would either stay stuck to the flat ground or tip all the way over. There was no in-between. It was difficult to steer on flat ground (with the skis) and was just not at all fun. The M7 was the complete opposite.

This new thing... like I said, when on the trail, if I turn to go right it felt like it wanted to tip over to the left. Yeah, countersteering. BUT... when I'd get it on a hill and need to get it up on one ski, I would do like I did on the M7 -- standing centered, just apply a little bit of pressure on the floorboard and the M would come right up and be super easy to hold. This thing wouldn't budge AT ALL. If I got both feet on the board and gave it some counter steer and pulled HARD it'd come up a little. Very hard to keep on anything resembling edge. This is why I was asking about shock settings... maybe they were set too stiff.

On my M7, I had a 3" riser and a nice lefty. The thing worked GREAT. But now I'm told by everybody that the opposite is true. No more lefty, and you want the lowest bars possible. I've watched tons of sled videos.. Burandt, Kesterke, Turcotte, Muskoka Freerider, Next Level, etc, and it seems the "new thing" (to me anyway) is the whole opposite-foot-forward thing. It seems that the only way these things are gonna get on edge is if you do it that way. If I could get my bars up another 2-3" it'd make a world of difference for me... but I went to do that and discovered Polaris doesn't give you ANY free cable to play with. I have the mid bars on mine... I thought for sure you'd get the same length cables and wires that came on the high bar models in case you wanted to change. Nope.

My next problem... at 55, I desperately need to hit the gym, and my knees aren't what they used to be. So the opposite-foot-forward thing is gonna be a problem. My right knee is the worst one, and I have a feeling that I'm gonna start trying to ride like that and my knee is gonna fall out from under me. This makes this sled a complete no-go for me.

I'm going out again this coming weekend... I'll try it again, but to be honest... if it's not a significantly better experience, I'm just about ready to sell the thing and walk away.

Thanks for the advice, btw... I really do appreciate it. So much better than Facebook where you'll get 30 replies and 25 of them will be from jerks and five won't understand the question.
Go here and you can look at the whole owner's manual for free: Owner's Manuals
 
You might have some adjustments to make on with your suspension set up.
I came from having 5 Cats previously (all models except Alpha) and then got a ‘22 Khaos 165. I’ve had it 2 seasons and I still can fall over occasionally because it’s so easy to get on edge. It’s really just a look, lean and the appropriate throttle. Even on the groom flat trail, it can 1 ski for miles.


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Good stuff guys, thank you. I seem to be experiencing the opposite so clearly I'm doing something wrong. I look forward to trying again tomorrow... we have one day (Saturday) before we get another big (relative to this season) Sunday and Monday, good for 2-4 more feet. If things go well tomorrow, we'll go back again next weekend.

This is in California, btw... north and south of Lake Tahoe. The snow last time wasn't powder but it wasn't Sierra Cement either. Conditions overall were marginal, though.

I think part of what killed it for me was an early stuck that totally winded me. And the guy I was riding with was fairly gung-ho and wanting to get back to riding before I had time to recover. So I spent the whole day following him around (getting stuck three more times; at least he was great at helping me get unstuck and patient about it), never really catching my breath. I was ready to quit after that ride but another friend convinced me to try it one more time.

If I don't totally bail, this summer will be spent doing a LOT of cardio...
 
Being in shape will help for sure, but if your not liking the feel of the polaris, maybe ski doo will be better. Keep us posted when you get it in some better snow. I think you’ll really enjoy it.👍🏻
 
No Ski-Doos for me... if I don't bail completely I'll end up with an M8 and will mod the hell out of it with a big bore and a 2.75 track, upgraded tunnel and running boards, etc. Kinda like a resto-mod where you drop an LS and a C4 suspension into something like, say, an old Nova. :-p
 
Don’t let yourself get discouraged. Like Wonderxc600 said, snow makes a big difference. Get that thing out in some fresh snow and find your balance points and you will be hooked.
 
Give it some time man! The newer chassis are way easier to ride eventually…… also it may be a good idea next time you ride to do your own thing and not try to chase someone down or follow their trench. Work on the fundamentals and figure the sled out. Good luck!
 
Get yourself some quality ski rubbers. It will help a lot in off trail performance. I prefer the Salazzking, but there are a few others.

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