Issues with 163 3" Track on drivers ????

[2XM3]

FINAL update, new avid drivers installed.....smooth as silk, zero issues, drivers themselves were the issue...uhg

 

[rydningen]

Just switched the drivers on mine too. Could barely rotate the track on a stand before, vibrated horribly, just like yours the nubs climbed on top of the drivers at certain spots.

Switched out the polaris drivers with Avid extroverts, and wow what a difference...

What is going on here, since they are molded I guess all of them would be more or less the same? (Crap!)


Had lots of pics of the process, and comparisons of the drivers. But uploading pictures on here are allmost impossible..

What happened to the «new» forum BTW?

 

[2XM3]

Yup, they are total JUNK should be a warranty deal but they are making it WAY to difficult, told us to "stretch the track and run it a while" yeah right good lord why bother with warranty at all?

just heard of two more, exact same issue.............looks like a batch of bad drivers

 

[Wintertime]

I have noticed that my track has always run off to one side or the other. Tried many times to adjust with track adjustment. During the first year of ownership asked dealer about it was told a lot them do it. I have always though it was a driver timing issue. I looked through the Service Manual and they do not show the timing measurements for the drivers? Does anyone know the measurements? I also see on the parts list you can only buy a shaft with the drivers. What happened to the days where all this info was in the Service Manual? I'm running the 2.6 track 7T 2.86 drivers has anyone switched these out to AVIDS and if so how well does it work?

 

[kanedog]

My 174" 3" camoplast 9115m track is crooked by 1/4". Anyone ever notice this in their track? It's like it was a reject. Do tracks get further away from perfect the longer they get?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Griff]

Have never been able to get my track aligned properly to my satisfaction. If it is parallel with the rails it rubs on one of the drop brackets. The center driver is always just inside the windows laterally. Just chalked it up to manufacturing tolerances or lack thereof. So have just run a compromise of perfect alignment. May have to evaluate my drivers as mentioned above.

 

[Norway]

Have never been able to get my track aligned properly to my satisfaction. If it is parallel with the rails it rubs on one of the drop brackets. The center driver is always just inside the windows laterally. Just chalked it up to manufacturing tolerances or lack thereof. So have just run a compromise of perfect alignment. May have to evaluate my drivers as mentioned above.

Center driver.. this is not about them, but man they make me angry! No point, no help and destroys the track. No issue with climbing or ratcheting on my 16, but the centet og the track shows damage!

NOT ok Polaris!! These are faulty parts, period! [emoji34]

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[TRS]

There are more than one tolerance issues as jigs age. We have seen a few.
1)Bulkhead to tunnel alignment. We have to live with this one. You can machine a 1.25”ODx.120” thick spacer and install one on each side of the rear torque arm between the drop bracket. I’ve done a lot of them.
2) Driver positions on the driveshaft generally aren’t centered. It will need to disassembled and corrected. Easy fix if know someone with a press.
3) Rear suspension torque arm chassis and rail mount tubes aren’t centered on the assemblies. These can also be trued, it takes time and pactience. Sleeve spacers and tube trimming is in order.
Some sleds have all these stacked on top each other.
There is a lot of free horsepower to be had blueprinting your chassis, from proper engine/clutch alignment to the rear idler wheels. Eliminating as much rolling resistance as possible.
Those of us that are anal about it, fix them.

 

[Griff]

There are more than one tolerance issues as jigs age. We have seen a few.
1)Bulkhead to tunnel alignment. We have to live with this one. You can machine a 1.25”ODx.120” thick spacer and install one on each side of the rear torque arm between the drop bracket. I’ve done a lot of them.
2) Driver positions on the driveshaft generally aren’t centered. It will need to disassembled and corrected. Easy fix if know someone with a press.
3) Rear suspension torque arm chassis and rail mount tubes aren’t centered on the assemblies. These can also be trued, it takes time and pactience. Sleeve spacers and tube trimming is in order.
Some sleds have all these stacked on top each other.
There is a lot of free horsepower to be had blueprinting your chassis, from proper engine/clutch alignment to the rear idler wheels. Eliminating as much rolling resistance as possible.
Those of us that are anal about it, fix them.

Thanks. Looks like I have a summer project. Starting to feel like a Polaris mechanic!

 

[xpspenziv]

I have found that since I snow check my 17 axys.
I have took on the Polaris mechanic apprenticeship program and the factory warranty invalidator.