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interesting CE 2.5 mod

Gotchya, I'm getting ready to put a 156 on and debating on trying it right away or not. Probably will.
 
Any more updates on this track mod? I wanna trim mine this weekend. Just wanted some more feedback before I do. thanks
 
TRS or someone can you take me to school on the CE tracks. A point was brought up in another thread that some different model #'s had different characteristics??


9104M 155 x 15 x 2.5 Challenger Extreme, Center Port, 2.86" Pitch, Single ply, Fully Clipped

9175M 162 x 15 x 2.5 Challenger Extreme, 3.0" Pitch, Single Ply, Fully Clipped

9105M 163 x 15 x 2.5 Challenger Extreme, Center Port, 2.86" Pitch, Single ply, Fully Clipped


In the other thread it was said that the 9175 is a better powder track, than the 9105?? Are the tracks not the same durometer as each other, its just one is 3" pitch and the other is 2.86"?? Does the pitch make that much of a difference?

With the 9175 do you NEED to go with 7 tooth?

If the 9175 is a better powder track, than the 9105, does that mean on a 155" sled a person should go to the 9174?
9174M 153 x 15 x 2.5 Challenger Extreme, 3.0" Pitch, Single Ply, Fully Clipped

Or was there just bad intel on that page, and I got wound up for nothing?
 
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The front cooler does not protrude into the tunnel more than the block off plate... in fact... the block off plate and the cooler are the same extrusion... on the PRO... without the cooler...the backside is simply milled out.
 
On a PRO... with no front cooler... I would line the full width of the tunnel from the end of the coolers at the front inside roof of the tunnel to the exit of the tunnel. I would use 1/32" (or so) sheet PTFE (teflon)... pop riveted into place... This will prevent that iceberg from forming at the exit of the tunnel and keep vibration and parasitic drag to a minimum.

Any slight weight gain from the plastic... would be much offset by the weight the sled doesn't gain in snow/ice at that "choke point" ... and would hold up to abrasion much better than paint/pow-coat or hard Ano.



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The front cooler does not protrude into the tunnel more than the block off plate... in fact... the block off plate and the cooler are the same extrusion... on the PRO... without the cooler...the backside is simply milled out.

MH, the statement I changed to bold in your quote is incorrect.

The cooler is a different extrusion than the block off, but as far as track clearance differences they are negligible. I can snap / post pics if there is an interest. In the close off extrusion the bridge between the bolt bosses is nearly centered. In the cooler extrusion the bridge is nearly flush with the Engine side of the bolt bosses and the finned cooler face is nearly flush with the track side of the bolt bosses. But in either extrusion the bolt bosses are the highest point, with the exception of an occasional heavy weld on the cooler crossover path patch.


But I understand your intent. It's just not a cost effective way to do it for mass production (to mill the cooler extrusion into a block off).
 
Cooler Extrusion VS. Block Off Extrusion Photos

The Block Offs I have are '11, '12, & '13's. The cooler is off a newer ('13-'14) from memory.

I shot these photos a couple years ago for someone that was curious of the differences. Thought I'd post them for reference.
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This one shows the bridge height difference best and that the bolt bosses are in the same locations.
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An additional Note; the Rush cooler and block offs are yet another pair of extrusions as they do not use the formed aluminum sheet piece under the Jack shaft like the RMK sleds use.
 
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Just bought me a rush style cooler for my assault. Slightly different than the rmk cooler...it goes up toward the jackshaft a little bit further so some custom cutting will be involved.
 
hey loudhandle
how much work is it to add the stock cooler to a pro ?

It is a lot of work but if your pretty savvy mechanically you could do it in a weekend or less. Basically to do it right, requires nearly a full disassembly of the sled, drop the rear suspension, remove track and drive / jackshaft / chain case or QD bearing plate, remove the front plastics (or chance melting them when you heat the side plates to soften the glue to separate them from the tunnel), probably far easier with the engine removed from the bulkhead, remove block off plate, clean all glued surfaces, and re-assemble with the cooler instead.

You may be able to cut some steps out of that but then you take a chance of preloading or racking / twisting the chassis upon reassembly. It would be best to have everything in it's natural relaxed state.

You will need the cooler, the additional hoses & clamps, adhesive, rivets, etc. I would have a few extra 8mm chassis bolts as in the ones I've done and some of the parts I have purchased used, the adhesive gets on the threads of a few of them and it is occasionally difficult to get them hot enough to loosen and start to turn before striping the head or twisting the head off. Depending on your Patience / persistance. If you need some of the stock fasteners PM me with what you want / need, as the price Polaris charges for the heavy stock steel stuff is nearly the cost of Titanium fasteners which is what all my sleds have been upgraded to (nearly every fastener).
 
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