Installing 2013 boards on a 2011. One question.
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IceCap
Well-known member
I am in the middle of doing mine and I used a air saw to cut it out. Then I used a body hammer and dolly to flatten out those curved up tabs.
Flapper disc works good to smoothen out the edges, but a file will work also.
I will be using aircraft rivets instead of the pop rivets.
Flapper disc works good to smoothen out the edges, but a file will work also.
I will be using aircraft rivets instead of the pop rivets.
Plasma cutter.
I use a combination of Unibit, pneumatic air saw, fine-tooth jigsaw and a 12" 3/16" drill bit.
First I measure, and triple check, the max width of the tabs needed to support the new boards... then I draw a line on the UNDERSIDE of the existing board.
Next, where the radius is for the tabs.. I use the unibit to drill through the existing structure to give a smooth "notch free corner" where I can connect my secondary cuts.
Next I lay the new board over this and trace out ALL of the ribs of the new board... I like to put a rivet in every rib of the new board... a bit of an extra measure and strength... especially on the ones that will not receive adhesive (which I recommend as well). Then I use the Unibit to establish those corners as well.
I leave the existing running board edge on the boards for stability and cut the existing board off the machine on both sides using the jigsaw from the BOTTOM side connecting the PEAKS of the tabs in one straight cut.
Then I remove the support by unbolting front and rear and pulling the board completely away from the sled.
From the bottom...connect the holes drilled by the unibit with the jigsaw or pneumatic cutoff tool and you are almost there... debur with debur tool, dremel or file CAREFULLY as not to leave any sharp corners that would weaken the tunnel.
Now you can bolt your new boards on front and aft and use the holes in the burandt boards as guides to drill the holes for the rivets using the long 3/16" drill bit to help clear the tunnel and not scratch it up....
Do one at a time and rivet them from the backside... the head of the rivet has more surface area to distribute the load over the .063" thick tunnel and resist tearing (the factory, IMO, should be doing this as well)... the thicker alumium of the board is better equipped to handle the shank end of the rivet.
I prefer to use the large 3/4" headed structural steel rivets that Polars uses to hold on body panels etc.. even more area to distribute the load.
Repeat this for all rivets where possible and you are finished with your install in a clean, strong way.
MY 2 cents... there are other cents out there as well.
Note: For those that are using a Hand powered, as opposed to a air/hydraulic, riveter... make sure you are not yanking or leveraging the riveter... I know it is difficult unless you have the GI-Joe Kung-Foo grip... Use smooth strokes so that the rivet can completely compress the two pieces together and make a strong tie.
First I measure, and triple check, the max width of the tabs needed to support the new boards... then I draw a line on the UNDERSIDE of the existing board.
Next, where the radius is for the tabs.. I use the unibit to drill through the existing structure to give a smooth "notch free corner" where I can connect my secondary cuts.
Next I lay the new board over this and trace out ALL of the ribs of the new board... I like to put a rivet in every rib of the new board... a bit of an extra measure and strength... especially on the ones that will not receive adhesive (which I recommend as well). Then I use the Unibit to establish those corners as well.
I leave the existing running board edge on the boards for stability and cut the existing board off the machine on both sides using the jigsaw from the BOTTOM side connecting the PEAKS of the tabs in one straight cut.
Then I remove the support by unbolting front and rear and pulling the board completely away from the sled.
From the bottom...connect the holes drilled by the unibit with the jigsaw or pneumatic cutoff tool and you are almost there... debur with debur tool, dremel or file CAREFULLY as not to leave any sharp corners that would weaken the tunnel.
Now you can bolt your new boards on front and aft and use the holes in the burandt boards as guides to drill the holes for the rivets using the long 3/16" drill bit to help clear the tunnel and not scratch it up....
Do one at a time and rivet them from the backside... the head of the rivet has more surface area to distribute the load over the .063" thick tunnel and resist tearing (the factory, IMO, should be doing this as well)... the thicker alumium of the board is better equipped to handle the shank end of the rivet.
I prefer to use the large 3/4" headed structural steel rivets that Polars uses to hold on body panels etc.. even more area to distribute the load.
Repeat this for all rivets where possible and you are finished with your install in a clean, strong way.
MY 2 cents... there are other cents out there as well.
Note: For those that are using a Hand powered, as opposed to a air/hydraulic, riveter... make sure you are not yanking or leveraging the riveter... I know it is difficult unless you have the GI-Joe Kung-Foo grip... Use smooth strokes so that the rivet can completely compress the two pieces together and make a strong tie.
If you have access to a plasma cutter, and lay it out well... and then take the time to debur it... You wil be ahead of the game.
I used a cheap air saw from Harbor Freight, worked great
When I installed running boards, I used a die grinder with a 3" wheel, it worked but it liked to kick while I was cutting, and the cutout needed a lot of cleanup work.
If i did it again i'd use an air saw, jig saw, or some other type of saw with a metal blade instead of any sort of rotary or abasive tool.
If i did it again i'd use an air saw, jig saw, or some other type of saw with a metal blade instead of any sort of rotary or abasive tool.
H
High Velocity
Well-known member
I've done two sleds so far and have a couple more to do. Very easy to do with a pneumatic reciprocating saw (24tpi blade), and a high quality 3/16" drill bit.
Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!
Done fishing. Let's go sledding !!
I have 2013 Polaris boards and not the Burandt boards but I am assuming it doesn't make any difference. I like what you said about the unibit and putting the rivets upside down so to speak. Makes sense. IceCap mentioned air craft rivets. What are those? I was told not to use steel rivets because they will rust. Or are they stainless steel rivets? And I do have a pneumatic rivet gun. Screw those hand operated ones man.
I have a high quality Bosch electric jig saw. Milwaukee Saws all, and a pneumatic 3" wheel cutting tool. No plasma cutter. I would think a jig saw cutting from the bottom would work best. ?????
Snips.
With how thin and flimsy my pro tunnel materiel is i just used aviation snips. Easy on the ears. Just cut a half inch big first so the metal has a place to curl on the final cut, leaving a strait clean edge. Cuts like butter
With how thin and flimsy my pro tunnel materiel is i just used aviation snips. Easy on the ears. Just cut a half inch big first so the metal has a place to curl on the final cut, leaving a strait clean edge. Cuts like butter
Last edited:
Backman,
Thanks for the heads up on the rivets...
I've used the Avdel Mono-bolt rivets.. but not the Stavex... looks like a nice product!
I noticed that they also offer that in a large flange version, .637" head diameter (BE34) and in Stainless steel (BS11) with the same head as the steel version.
Thanks for the heads up on the rivets...
I've used the Avdel Mono-bolt rivets.. but not the Stavex... looks like a nice product!
I noticed that they also offer that in a large flange version, .637" head diameter (BE34) and in Stainless steel (BS11) with the same head as the steel version.
C
Cody Phillips Racing
Well-known member
Those "yammi" rivets are called multigrip rivets and are much stronger than regular ones, see attachment for a closeup. They also look better at the shank end
And yes, I used these rivets for my Burandt board installation
Did the board come with that template? I need to get me a set of these....
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