Interested in the 2 mounting points will it balloon the tunnel there over time?
Would the front mount trap a size 13 boot?
Will the small screw tear the bottom of pants and soles of boots?
Weight difference from stock?
HA, Just got notification that my boards are on there way do to be here on Tuesday, That sucks since I am in Menno South Dakota dropping my sled of at Ulmer Racing to have 210Hp turbo installed, guess the boards will have to wait a few weeks. I knew this would happen!!!
Yes New turbo is winning since Im only an hour away from Allens shop, meeting him in the morning to drop off sled, boards will wait!! But I cant wait till all done.
Next item for me is to buy some Air Tools now.
Need a cutter and a rivet gun.
And I was told to use the new Polaris "Glue" in addition to the rivets to make these boards more secure to the tunnel. Need to go get some of that and the special applicator it requires.
Also need to get some clamps to hold the boards in place during installation.
So far as I know, this is what Polaris is now using on their new sleds to cut down on weight as a structural adhesive. And I was told that on the prototype Air Frame Boards, it made a substantial difference over just Riveting alone. And, should the time come that it needs to be removed, that a commercial heat gun will loosen it and allow it to come off.
This stuff also requires an applicator to control the mixing.
And it needs a special mixing tube that should come with the adhesive tubes.
The Glue cost me $15.
The Gun cost me $60.
The Tube cost me $0.
=========
Note.
If it wasn't for the fact that I got such a deal on E-Bay I would have bought the much smaller 50ml tube and dispenser and gone the cheapest route possible. But since the adhesive was so cheap in the 300ml size, I figured what the heck. Might as well have more and not less of this stuff to work with seeing as how I have never used it before.
cant wait to see yours there are some pics on TY of a Nytro with them on, and they look sweet!! Im having my boards sent to Allen at Ulmer racing since he has my sled now for the turbo install. I will have it back after Hay Days in MN I cant wait.
The rear drop brackets that support the track also need to be removed, as well as the support structure that attaches to the underside of the OEM Boards.
Rivets have to be drilled out, and bolts have to be removed to get the brackets off.
Of course, once the drop brackets are gone, its a great time to remove the whole rear suspension and do any service that might be needed.
My next step will be to mandhandle the rear suspension OUT of the track, and then to experience the shear joy of removing the Anti-Ratchet drive that was THRASHED by my May 15th ride over Volcanic Ash in Island Park after the snow had melted.