What are some flatlander setups for reducing that dreaded inside ski lift? I have the front WE shocks set as soft as they go and the spring pressure set about half way up the shock threads?
Inside ski lift
- Thread starter highview72
- Start date
Well I doubt you will find many responses to this since IMO 99% of these guys are mtn guys. But I will take a shot at it.
You will need to get the ski preasure up so set your preloads tight and pull up your limiter strap to take some load off the track and move it to the skis. That should keep that inside ski down but will make it a heavy steer.
You will need to get the ski preasure up so set your preloads tight and pull up your limiter strap to take some load off the track and move it to the skis. That should keep that inside ski down but will make it a heavy steer.
C
Cpt.Ron
Well-known member
As Himark said, pull up the limiter straps, lay down the front shock in the rear skid, use softer pressure here as well. Then set your bars fully ahead and stand out over them.
Yes, you will feel heavy ski pressure, which may yield some sore upper shoulder muscles until they get used to it. Also try alternating your foot pressure, where you place your feet and how much pressure on which one. If you take a moderate approach into the corner, then accelerate through and out of the corner, it will track like a train on rails.
From my experience, the harder and more aggressive that you ride/push this platform, the more it likes it and the better it handles, but you have to be out front over the bars.
I run a stiffer spring preload on the front, I got rid of the sway bar on day two for the sled. I charge the shocks at 210 lbs and rebuild all of them twice a season. In the rear, the front shock is laid down with lesser preload, the rear shock is set up stiffer with 10 weight oil and 210 lbs of nitrogen again. If the trail is excessive with moguls, then you can soften the rear shock dampening on the adjuster for the trail, then set it back up for the hills. This same set up works great for climbing.
I run the stock ski's with only a single wear bar on the inside position, a custom built deep keel square cut hard bar, no carbides, 3/8" x 3/4", good hook on the trails and great again on the pow...
This admittidly may not work for all riders, as suspension set up is very individual to each rider and most people do not care for the heavy ski pressure. I am 6'1" tall 210 lbs, and I ride it aggressively and absolutely love this platform for the way it handles.
Good luck.
CR
Yes, you will feel heavy ski pressure, which may yield some sore upper shoulder muscles until they get used to it. Also try alternating your foot pressure, where you place your feet and how much pressure on which one. If you take a moderate approach into the corner, then accelerate through and out of the corner, it will track like a train on rails.
From my experience, the harder and more aggressive that you ride/push this platform, the more it likes it and the better it handles, but you have to be out front over the bars.
I run a stiffer spring preload on the front, I got rid of the sway bar on day two for the sled. I charge the shocks at 210 lbs and rebuild all of them twice a season. In the rear, the front shock is laid down with lesser preload, the rear shock is set up stiffer with 10 weight oil and 210 lbs of nitrogen again. If the trail is excessive with moguls, then you can soften the rear shock dampening on the adjuster for the trail, then set it back up for the hills. This same set up works great for climbing.
I run the stock ski's with only a single wear bar on the inside position, a custom built deep keel square cut hard bar, no carbides, 3/8" x 3/4", good hook on the trails and great again on the pow...
This admittidly may not work for all riders, as suspension set up is very individual to each rider and most people do not care for the heavy ski pressure. I am 6'1" tall 210 lbs, and I ride it aggressively and absolutely love this platform for the way it handles.
Good luck.
CR
Thanks guys
I had no steering or atleast that's what it felt like. I took my front strap down and it was like night and day difference! I also put 8 inch carbides on the inside of the duals so now there is 8 on the inside and 4 on the outsides. mine has not been updated with spindles this was a fix for the time being for the stock set up on my 05. Ride here in Michigan flatlands compared to the mts. hope this helps alittle.
S
sno_mo_racer
Well-known member
On the bold about pulling up the limiter strap. What effect would this have when hitting the bumps/jumps with the shorter stroke of the shock. Will it bottom out more and damage the shock?
I too would like to try pull the strap up but do not want to damage the shock when going through the bumps/moguls.
Thanks.
About the only effect raising the limiters up will do is it will add ski pressure making the front of the sled handle better in the turns... when your limiters are out your set up for less ski pressure by comparison and makes the sled feel more tippy.
The chances of you damaging the shock are pretty slim, I think you would have to strike an object pretty hard to actually hurt it, it is designed to work in both setups, just with different reactions.
I've never tried putting the shock in the lower mounting position, so I will refrain from further comment.
C
Cpt.Ron
Well-known member
Sno-mo-racer,
Hi, as I mentioned, suspension set-ups are very individual, I am a little surprised that I didn't open a huge can of worms here, as many riders prefer to let out the straps and install the big stiff spring in the front of the skid in order to releive the heavy steering effort, which this does quite well, however this set-up does not climb worth chit, ...IMO.
Overall, as with most things in life.., there are trade-offs here, ..one has to consider are you a trail rider, are you a climber in the steep and deep, ..perhaps you like to mash the moguls and ditch bang, ..whatever works for each rider.
To get around to answering your question, my set up, with the straps cinched up and low spring pressure on the front of the skid, after many years and miles is, ... what I like, ..however, I take it easy on the trails, ..and for two reasons..
-I do not care for crashing through or over moguls, too darned old and too sore for it.
-and for safety, too many riders on the trails these days, we now have sno-boarders going up and down our trails all day, and many new peeps that don't know which side of the road one travels on???
I enjoy powder riding, exploring, boondocking in the pow and climbing with friends, particularly in order to gain access to new or special areas. This set up works in all of these circumstances, ...but admittingly it may not be the best for trail riding. So, ..as with most trade-offs, ..one has to decide what it is they want to do.
I have never damaged any of my shocks, rails or any suspension components, ..I usually change the oil and re-charge them twice a season, depending on how much I am riding.
Yes, the front of the skid can bottom out on continuous steep moguls, (...I don't push it then, I back off and take it easy).
There is one more mod that I have done to my rear suspension, which proved to be a very huge improvement to the powder riding abilities and performance. This was to remove the rear skid and disassemble it completely. Then I cut off the last 3" of the rails in such a way that I could re-weld the rear axle adjustment slide back onto the rails, just further ahead. This all enabled me to pull back the skid 2.5" within the track, of course new rear suspension brackets were required, likewise relocating the front mounting holes. All in all, ..this was huge, ...a much better attack angle to the snow is acheived this way. However, again this increases the "dreaded ski pressure" somewhat so it may not be the answer for most,.....lol.
I have just short of 10,000 miles on my 05 900 RMK, and I love it. It works better than nearly any other 900 I have seen, ..in the deep and steep!!
Again, suspension set up's are very individual. I grew up racing snowmobiles, old school days on old school sleds. Cross Country races were my thing, (as well as Ice Ovals in later years), ..I was competetive and successful at it.
My last comment regarding the IQ mountain chassis is that it is a great platform, ..I suggest building one's back and shoulder muscles up, such that one can aggresively ride this chassis effectively without the pain.....
Cheers to all.
CR
Hi, as I mentioned, suspension set-ups are very individual, I am a little surprised that I didn't open a huge can of worms here, as many riders prefer to let out the straps and install the big stiff spring in the front of the skid in order to releive the heavy steering effort, which this does quite well, however this set-up does not climb worth chit, ...IMO.
Overall, as with most things in life.., there are trade-offs here, ..one has to consider are you a trail rider, are you a climber in the steep and deep, ..perhaps you like to mash the moguls and ditch bang, ..whatever works for each rider.
To get around to answering your question, my set up, with the straps cinched up and low spring pressure on the front of the skid, after many years and miles is, ... what I like, ..however, I take it easy on the trails, ..and for two reasons..
-I do not care for crashing through or over moguls, too darned old and too sore for it.
-and for safety, too many riders on the trails these days, we now have sno-boarders going up and down our trails all day, and many new peeps that don't know which side of the road one travels on???
I enjoy powder riding, exploring, boondocking in the pow and climbing with friends, particularly in order to gain access to new or special areas. This set up works in all of these circumstances, ...but admittingly it may not be the best for trail riding. So, ..as with most trade-offs, ..one has to decide what it is they want to do.
I have never damaged any of my shocks, rails or any suspension components, ..I usually change the oil and re-charge them twice a season, depending on how much I am riding.
Yes, the front of the skid can bottom out on continuous steep moguls, (...I don't push it then, I back off and take it easy).
There is one more mod that I have done to my rear suspension, which proved to be a very huge improvement to the powder riding abilities and performance. This was to remove the rear skid and disassemble it completely. Then I cut off the last 3" of the rails in such a way that I could re-weld the rear axle adjustment slide back onto the rails, just further ahead. This all enabled me to pull back the skid 2.5" within the track, of course new rear suspension brackets were required, likewise relocating the front mounting holes. All in all, ..this was huge, ...a much better attack angle to the snow is acheived this way. However, again this increases the "dreaded ski pressure" somewhat so it may not be the answer for most,.....lol.
I have just short of 10,000 miles on my 05 900 RMK, and I love it. It works better than nearly any other 900 I have seen, ..in the deep and steep!!
Again, suspension set up's are very individual. I grew up racing snowmobiles, old school days on old school sleds. Cross Country races were my thing, (as well as Ice Ovals in later years), ..I was competetive and successful at it.
My last comment regarding the IQ mountain chassis is that it is a great platform, ..I suggest building one's back and shoulder muscles up, such that one can aggresively ride this chassis effectively without the pain.....
Cheers to all.
CR
S
sno_mo_racer
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I forgot to mention it is in a 121' skid fusion and would be for aggressive x-country with some moguls and jumps. Was wondering if I shorten the limiter strap for more ski pressure which would make the travel on the front shock shorter. Would it damage it? Should've gotten that shock valved stiffer when did the rear shock or just put a stiffer spring on it.
Oh and thanks for the great info BTW..
Oh and thanks for the great info BTW..
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