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If you need a new Exhaust temp sensor, read this!!!

also just a note that the 2010 truck egt sensors work as well different pn#
because of the connector but exact same resistances as well,sensor 2 on both years 10 and 11 are the cheaper sensor
 
I didn't have mine go bad, but I have been testing the 2011 truck one for over 3 weeks now. Works just like stock. No difference at all.................... $24 on eBay shipped to my door.

Aaron
 
Now if we could find a replacement for the stupid Polaris ones too. Wonder if its a similar part?

sled_guy
 
You could, but you don't get the benefit of ECU calibrations from increasing and decreasing pipe temps.

What's another $15. IMO, you get way more advantage out of running a pipe sensor than not.

Will you please explain these ecu calibrations?
 
Will you please explain these ecu calibrations?
Similar to airbox temps, an exhaust temp sensor reads the temps and corrects the finding with fuel calibration. The colder air is, the more dense it is and requires more fuel to run the right AFR. Th ecu adjusts the fuel curve to accommodate that air fuel ratio.

Same idea; If your pipe temp is too hot, the ecu with adds fuel to get the correct operating pipe temp. Pipe temps do affect performance.

My comment was for guys who are throwing in resistors in place of the temp sensor after they stop working. If you run a resistor with XXXohm, the ecu thinks that your pipe temp is always at xxx temp.
 
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Yes, but can you say for certain that it makes more than one re-calibration? A cold pipe calibration, and a hot pipe calibration once the pipe reaches a certain temperature for instance. A choke circuit of sorts.

I ask because I have run a resistor, and once it was warm my sled ran the same the rest of the day. The one exception to this was while racing the Valdez Hill Climbs a couple years ago. I would loose enough pipe temp in staging that my sled would have a slight hesitation off the line. This is how I was told it would react before I installed the resistor and this is what I experienced, but I would love to learn more, I just have a hard time believing it without something to contradict my experience.


My question is: can anyone prove that the ecu actively adjusts fuel while riding through out the entire temperature range, or is it just using the pipe temp sensor to keep us from cold seizing our engines before they get a chance to warm up.


That said, I tried to order one of the Ebay sensors but they don't ship to Alaska. :face-icon-small-con
 
Yes, but can you say for certain that it makes more than one re-calibration? A cold pipe calibration, and a hot pipe calibration once the pipe reaches a certain temperature for instance. A choke circuit of sorts.

I ask because I have run a resistor, and once it was warm my sled ran the same the rest of the day. The one exception to this was while racing the Valdez Hill Climbs a couple years ago. I would loose enough pipe temp in staging that my sled would have a slight hesitation off the line. This is how I was told it would react before I installed the resistor and this is what I experienced, but I would love to learn more, I just have a hard time believing it without something to contradict my experience.


My question is: can anyone prove that the ecu actively adjusts fuel while riding through out the entire temperature range, or is it just using the pipe temp sensor to keep us from cold seizing our engines before they get a chance to warm up.


That said, I tried to order one of the Ebay sensors but they don't ship to Alaska. :face-icon-small-con

I would like to know also, but the only way to know for sure is to get a reostat (variable resistor by turning the knob) EGT probes, Wideband O2, timing light, and a way to load the engine (prefereably a dyno) to check for yourself. Doubt that anyone will take the time to find out but it would be nice
 
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