iBackshift clutch kit review

[christopher]

I don't think we have seen a single person yet that has been UNHAPPY with this clutch kit.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

High Voltage are you running Joey's recommended weights or did you play around with it at all? What clicker position? I have his kit and really like it however I'm not quite seeing the rpms I feel I should be. I'm running clicker 3 with recommended weights for 9500'. Yesterday after getting unstuck in a creek I WOT out and was only pulling 7600 rpm, granted it was in about 2.5-3' of soft snow. Just trying to get a feel for what to try next, I was going to run on clicker 2 and see what that does for me. However these P drives have me all F-ed up and my brain hurts trying to read/search about them. FYI sled has about 650 miles when it was in break in the rpms were pretty spot on

At sea level, estimated 160hp.
At 9800 feet, estimated 96hp.
IF running at 7900 and pulls down to 7600, THEN remove a 1/2 gram and let er' get up to 8000 rpms. I have the dyno sheets, the engine makes say 161 at 7900 and 160 at 8000, the difference is just under 2 pounds torque at 8000. Flat power peak; little diesel...haha.
Being at 8000 rpms and instead of drifting to 7600, the engine may drift to 7800 but now being 200 rpms higher, the engine will have an easier time to recover rpms back to 8 grand.

IF need higher rpms, THEN raise the clicker number.
IF need lower rpms, THEN lower the clicker number.
The clutch needs weight in it to get the engine to labour around 80~7900 and float around there, full throttle and then the clickers will respond traditionally like they do on the TRA model.

You can gain an advantage at 9500 feet also by gearing. IF you have a 165 THEN its 21-53 gearing. You can go to a 19 top gear and that will give the clutching 7% more torque at the drive axle to overcome the load that 96hp has to work against. That too will allow the engine to not drift down to 7600 and say even if it did, the engine speed will quickly recover back to 7900.
Gearing lower gives you "Track speed staying power" and you also lose less track speed in a load change, thereby the track speed recovers quicker; and this is accumulative over time. With a lower gear, the track speed hits equilibrium quicker.

Equilibrium; you can say "Track speed is in equilibrium" if it experiences neither acceleration nor deceleration; unless it is disturbed by an outside force, it will continue in that condition indefinitely.

Like a rider on X sled in Y location gets 45mph track speed. Full throttle in his own area, what he gets regularly is 45mph track speed unless something is different to load the track less (more track speed) or loads the track more (less track speed)

 

[wyobob44]

i have been running Joey’s clutch kits in my sleds since 2007, it is the first thing i will put in mine or my wife’s sled, the response on engagement is always right where it should be , and as Christopher said , the deceleration, engine braking, is the best in the world, i drop off of sh*t that makes people that ride with me loose their mind and i never use my brakes, smile under my helmet, and say , Joey your **** is the best and then brap the throttle a little more

 

[donbrown]

• Devilmanak
• Monday at 8:33 PM
• iBackshift clutch kit review
• 
  
• Any reviews from guys that paid retail for the kits?

I paid full retail for 2 and bought a complete clutch tool kit from another shop.
Plus Im in California so Im lucky there was no upcharge !!!!

2 SKIDOO 154 SHOT 3" paddle. 2018 Installed one kit and was really smooth. Feels linear both up and no sudden backshift when letting off the throttle. Also changed the gearing … Think 19T. Road several hundred miles … did the primary spring modification and engage around 2500 RPM. Now Im crawling around those trees !!!! Plus better trenching control with 3" paddles
Im 215 lbs and my young son 140.

Really smooth BUT I think the spring modification causing the clutch to engage earlier was the best mod; then gears and last the clutch kit. (Ive never moded a clutch spring so this was a new new thing , been doing clutch kits/spring/weights/gears for 20 years) AND I really like all three mods together. Would I have NOT done the clutch kit and did the spring / gears first. I would not know what to do with spring / gears had it not been for ibackshift.com. So the knowledge and throwing in a clutch kit is money well spent IMHO.

Just went to Heber city last month MLK and group was impressed with ibackshift mods compared to stock ,

So I will buy another ibackshift kit when buying another sled.

 

[donbrown]

I cleaned up the post. Im sorry you are sad about my post. I meant to conclude Ibackshift is a huge improvement over stock and for me IMHO:

BELT / Clutch temps are much cooler
Lower engagement RPM … slower speed in tight riding areas . less trenching with 3" track
More linear acceleration plus holds RPM better/longer
Less backshift when let off the throttle

BTW no kickback/compensation for this review …

 

[Blainelukens]

At sea level, estimated 160hp.
At 9800 feet, estimated 96hp.
IF running at 7900 and pulls down to 7600, THEN remove a 1/2 gram and let er' get up to 8000 rpms. I have the dyno sheets, the engine makes say 161 at 7900 and 160 at 8000, the difference is just under 2 pounds torque at 8000. Flat power peak; little diesel...haha.
Being at 8000 rpms and instead of drifting to 7600, the engine may drift to 7800 but now being 200 rpms higher, the engine will have an easier time to recover rpms back to 8 grand.

IF need higher rpms, THEN raise the clicker number.
IF need lower rpms, THEN lower the clicker number.
The clutch needs weight in it to get the engine to labour around 80~7900 and float around there, full throttle and then the clickers will respond traditionally like they do on the TRA model.

You can gain an advantage at 9500 feet also by gearing. IF you have a 165 THEN its 21-53 gearing. You can go to a 19 top gear and that will give the clutching 7% more torque at the drive axle to overcome the load that 96hp has to work against. That too will allow the engine to not drift down to 7600 and say even if it did, the engine speed will quickly recover back to 7900.
Gearing lower gives you "Track speed staying power" and you also lose less track speed in a load change, thereby the track speed recovers quicker; and this is accumulative over time. With a lower gear, the track speed hits equilibrium quicker.

Joe,
Thanks for the response, your knowledge is greatly appreciated.