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I Q noob

Hi all. New to the forum just made offer on 07 rmk 155 600 with carls 727 kit and have been accepted //...... I have been out of the loop for a while last sled was 95 xlt rmk .... this should be a nice step up it seems that the 600 has the reliability edge from all of my research hope i made the right call.....
I will have it gone thru at carls with a vigorous preseason/checkup and should learn alot from that but any other suggestions are welcome
 
Hi all. New to the forum just made offer on 07 rmk 155 600 with carls 727 kit and have been accepted //...... I have been out of the loop for a while last sled was 95 xlt rmk .... this should be a nice step up it seems that the 600 has the reliability edge from all of my research hope i made the right call.....
I will have it gone thru at carls with a vigorous preseason/checkup and should learn alot from that but any other suggestions are welcome

I would make sure the springs are tight on the exhaust.
Also check the exhaust donut ... seems to wear fast compared to a 600.
Check the power valve diaphrams to see if intact.
Route the PV vent line out of the sled cause these tend to spray oil.
 
X2 with above...

Also.. Just make sure you fill Gas and Oil.. Pull Rope and HAVE FUN!

Thats the name of this game.. is having fun!

I would double check carb boots.. about that time period for replacement
 
X2 with above...

Also.. Just make sure you fill Gas and Oil.. Pull Rope and HAVE FUN!

Thats the name of this game.. is having fun!

I would double check carb boots.. about that time period for replacement

Touching the intake box is a gamble but must be done for maintenance/repair. Most I have talked to have never been able to put them back together intact.
 
Touching the intake box is a gamble but must be done for maintenance/repair. Most I have talked to have never been able to put them back together intact.

What? I've had mine out dozens of times. It's kind of a PITA to get the fuel filter clipped back on with the belt holder/electronics cover there, but you just have to make sure you line up the slot on the bottom with the intake boots and slide it in. Helps if you spit on it first :face-icon-small-win

While you have it out, it's a good time to make sure the seam is all sealed up (duct tape works fine) Also have a look at your bulkhead where the bottom bracket of the steer post is mounted, make sure that's not cracking. Check that your throttle cable isn't rubbing on your oil line (although you may have to get your throttle body off for that one) and just make sure the rubber boots between the throttle body and the engine are in tact (no tears around the bolts, the updated part number is a much stiffer and better reinforced rubber) Oh and not 100% if the 600 is the same, but the 700 has an updated part # for your Voltage Regulator (VR) which is more fun to replace before it starts to act up and you have to crawl home on limp mode..

Otherwise, enjoy that thing, premix a little every few tanks just because, and go stuff it somewhere deep!
 
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thanks for all of that great info Fon
Im sure that will have me poking around carefully under the hood for days until it snows
Pray for snow
 
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What? I've had mine out dozens of times. It's kind of a PITA to get the fuel filter clipped back on with the belt holder/electronics cover there, but you just have to make sure you line up the slot on the bottom with the intake boots and slide it in. Helps if you spit on it first :face-icon-small-win

While you have it out, it's a good time to make sure the seam is all sealed up (duct tape works fine) Also have a look at your bulkhead where the bottom bracket of the steer post is mounted, make sure that's not cracking. Check that your throttle cable isn't rubbing on your oil line (although you may have to get your throttle body off for that one) and just make sure the rubber boots between the throttle body and the engine are in tact (no tears around the bolts, the updated part number is a much stiffer and better reinforced rubber) Oh and not 100% if the 600 is the same, but the 700 has an updated part # for your Voltage Regulator (VR) which is more fun to replace before it starts to act up and you have to crawl home on limp mode..

Otherwise, enjoy that thing, premix a little every few tanks just because, and go stuff it somewhere deep!

The tabs have broken off and it pops apart now. Using zip ties to hold it together !
 
fonetikal, they are talking about a 600/727 carb'd motor not an EFI so the airbox is completely different.

For you guys with the baseline 600 carb'd motor (and your choice of bigbore) for MY 2007, I would strongly recommend getting the SLP air horn kit that attaches to the top of the airbox. This product allows you to actually get your hand down in the airbox and makes it very easy to attach the rubber dounts to the carb's. You can then use you fingers to slide the rubber donuts that are attached to the bottom of the airbox onto the carb's. Without the SLP airhorn, it is a PITA. With it, it's a 2 minute job.
 
Relocate the drain hole in the airbox under the hood. The stock hole lets the water drain down into the EV vent hole. This will rust the spring over time and break. The sled runs like crap after that.
 
Thanks dd sound like money well spent on a upgrade Also have to check out the drain hole prob......I still havent been able to pick up the sled but hope to have it soon
Pray for snow
 
The box itself pops apart? I'd put a bead of shoe goo or epoxy around that and glue it back together, then run some gorilla or duct tape around the seam to keep it sealed up and keep water out.

I put a threaded rod across the bottom of mine, sealed it with real heating duct tape.
 
Going to pick up the sled on monday Ya hooo! I have been reading alot (probably too much) and came across this
the 685 and 727 both use wisco pistons which is fine but you have to be real careful about cold seizing
I am new to these IQs and am wondering how to be carefull about "cold seizing"
thanks
BK
 
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