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I installed my Better Boards

O

Oregonsledder

Well-known member
I just finished installing a set of Better Boards on my 2012 PRO RMK 155. I’m pleased with the result. I thought I would share my experience.

Like the instructions stated, I removed the unwanted aluminum stock running board material. I was able to leave one piece that spanned the opening, but had to remove most of the rest of the stock material so that the BB’s windows would not be obstructed by anything. Important note, be sure to only cut off what you have to, because there is not a lot of metal left for the BB’s to attach to. I used an air saw to cut the stock material and then de-burred with a 60 grit wheel on my die grinder. I also removed the powder coating from the underside of the BB’s to get the best possible adhesion.

I chose to use the Lords 406/19 adhesive along with 25 rivets per side, with steel backing washers. Preparation for the use of this adhesive is key. Have the surface clean. I used acetone to be sure there was no residual oil from my air saw. Drill your holes carefully with the riveting process in mind. You only have so much room for the riveter, either manual or air. Test fit all your rivets to insure they go in easily as you only have approximately 6 minutes of work time with the adhesive. Test your rivet gun to be sure you can get to all of the rivets before applying the glue. I put two rivets under the toe hold on the front of the BB and there is no way to get an air rivet gun in there, so be sure you have a manual tool available.

Prepare for the worst. If you have done much riveting you will know that all rivet tools, air or manual get jammed. My air riveter jammed at about the half way point on the first board! Have a backup plan because it will happen and you only have so much time.
I used a lot of C clamps to insure that if I had a rivet problem, the adhesive would still get a good and tight bond.

In conclusion... I’m pleased with the install process, and I have to say I would never install the BB’s without the adhesive. There is very little metal left around the rivets to keep the board in place. I know Fbomb and others have had success with just using rivets, but this is my story... LOL:face-icon-small-hap
I hope this helps someone who installs this great product.
 
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I just finished installing a set of Better Boards on my 2012 PRO RMK 155. I’m pleased with the result. I thought I would share my experience.

Like the instructions stated, I removed the unwanted aluminum stock running board material. I was able to leave one piece that spanned the opening, but had to remove most of the rest of the stock material so that the BB’s windows would not be obstructed by anything. Important note, be sure to only cut off what you have to, because there is not a lot of metal left for the BB’s to attach to. I used an air saw to cut the stock material and then de-burred with a 60 grit wheel on my die grinder. I also removed the powder coating from the underside of the BB’s to get the best possible adhesion.

I chose to use the Lords 406/19 adhesive along with 25 rivets per side, with steel backing washers. Preparation for the use of this adhesive is key. Have the surface clean. I used acetone to be sure there was no residual oil from my air saw. Drill your holes carefully with the riveting process in mind. You only have so much room for the riveter, either manual or air. Test fit all your rivets to insure they go in easily as you only have approximately 6 minutes of work time with the adhesive. Test your rivet gun to be sure you can get to all of the rivets before applying the glue. I put two rivets under the toe hold on the front of the BB and there is no way to get an air rivet gun in there, so be sure you have a manual tool available.

Prepare for the worst. If you have done much riveting you will know that all rivet tools, air or manual get jammed. My air riveter jammed at about the half way point on the first board! Have a backup plan because it will happen and you only have so much time.
I used a lot of C clamps to insure that if I had a rivet problem, the adhesive would still get a good and tight bond.

In conclusion... I’m pleased with the install process, and I have to say I would never install the BB’s without the adhesive. There is very little metal left around the rivets to keep the board in place. I know Fbomb and others have had success with just using rivets, but this is my story... LOL:face-icon-small-hap
I hope this helps someone who installs this great product.

Hey OS would you post some pics of these also, I just dont know if you realy need to do this or not:face-icon-small-con Lots of guys say yes but alot say they have never bent them at all??? Dont know if its worth the money or not, I know I dont jump back and forth like Burandt does but I also am not as small as he is either:becky:
 
Hey OS would you post some pics of these also, I just dont know if you realy need to do this or not:face-icon-small-con Lots of guys say yes but alot say they have never bent them at all??? Dont know if its worth the money or not, I know I dont jump back and forth like Burandt does but I also am not as small as he is either:becky:

Here ya go Icerider. I'm not sure I needed them either, but I'm a 200 pounder and I rode an Edge chassis hard enough to crack one floor board just in front of the toe, and it caused a coolant leak in the outer rail/cooling tube... ruined New Years eve 2 years ago. The PRO doesn't have the cooling tube but I still don't want a problem.

The PRO doesn't look as strong as my old Edge, so I thought I should just do it.
Here is a picture

001.jpg
 
Wheres the pics bro. I just picked up my Pro from Mike on Wednesday. Looks like its gonna rip. Im putting a CE 163 on it saterday. Come on snow.

Troy
 
Ya , I wasnt going to get one until December but Mike called me and said a guy backed out of a snow check.

Troy
 
Ya , I wasnt going to get one until December but Mike called me and said a guy backed out of a snow check.

Troy

Pictures please! Be sure to check the chaincase oil level. Mine was half full.
I told Mike about it so maybe they actually checked yours LOL
 
Pictures please! Be sure to check the chaincase oil level. Mine was half full.
I told Mike about it so maybe they actually checked yours LOL

I will get pics out tonight. Thanks on the heads up on the oil. The chaincase is coming off this weekend because the new track is going on.

Troy
 
OS I liked the pic's but is that all that it is:face-icon-small-con just another pc of alum that goes on top of your running board?? And you have to cut alot of material out?? OK am I dumb or does that seems to be dumb to cut material out just to slap in another pc:face-icon-small-con:face-icon-small-con:face-icon-small-con Also how thick were these things? and if its just that I am going to waterjet my own.
 
OS I liked the pic's but is that all that it is:face-icon-small-con just another pc of alum that goes on top of your running board?? And you have to cut alot of material out?? OK am I dumb or does that seems to be dumb to cut material out just to slap in another pc:face-icon-small-con:face-icon-small-con:face-icon-small-con Also how thick were these things? and if its just that I am going to waterjet my own.

I hear ya, but this metal is several times thicker than the stock material, with bigger windows and more agressive cleating. If you do a little looking on this site you will see pictures of broken cleats and that is after one year of riding. You could make your own, but in my experience, it would cost you more. The BB's are also powder coated and snow doesn't stick to it as much as with raw al. Ok Fbomb I just did a commercial for you.... where my check? LOL
:noidea:
 
I hear ya, but this metal is several times thicker than the stock material, with bigger windows and more agressive cleating. If you do a little looking on this site you will see pictures of broken cleats and that is after one year of riding. You could make your own, but in my experience, it would cost you more. The BB's are also powder coated and snow doesn't stick to it as much as with raw al. Ok Fbomb I just did a commercial for you.... where my check? LOL
:noidea:

Ok I will take your word for it, but does FBomb make these or does he sell them? and what is the cost of them? Thanks OS
 
I'm sure Fbomb will answer your questions.

Ok now I do feel dumb:face-icon-small-con I didnt know he was the maker of them, kinda like you OS I just wanted to make my own stuff for just my time into it to save some money, ( for me alot of money)since I am running a waterjet its kinda a no brainer and a good freind of ours powder coats also. I think I might ride it a bit before I decide what I want to do.
 
Ok now I do feel dumb:face-icon-small-con I didnt know he was the maker of them, kinda like you OS I just wanted to make my own stuff for just my time into it to save some money, ( for me alot of money)since I am running a waterjet its kinda a no brainer and a good freind of ours powder coats also. I think I might ride it a bit before I decide what I want to do.

If you have access to that those resources, then I bet you could. I almost decided to ride it a season and then see, but I decided to go ahead and just not have that one thing to think about.
 
You can't go wrong with the real deal. The coating has been tested and changed over the years, it sheds snow better than just a simple black powder coating. I'm sure F-Bomb can explain much more than myself (yes, he makes them). The cleats have also been changed throughout the years (cleat height, cleat shapes, where the cleats are and where they aren't, etc)..I'm just another satisfied customer who has had a couple of versions he made. Not that you couldn't make something similar, but for the price, quality, and testing by thousands of us riders, Better Boards are the way to go. The better bars are also a great improvement over stock.
 
I just finished installing a set of Better Boards on my 2012 PRO RMK 155. I’m pleased with the result. I thought I would share my experience.

Like the instructions stated, I removed the unwanted aluminum stock running board material. I was able to leave one piece that spanned the opening, but had to remove most of the rest of the stock material so that the BB’s windows would not be obstructed by anything. Important note, be sure to only cut off what you have to, because there is not a lot of metal left for the BB’s to attach to. I used an air saw to cut the stock material and then de-burred with a 60 grit wheel on my die grinder. I also removed the powder coating from the underside of the BB’s to get the best possible adhesion.

I chose to use the Lords 406/19 adhesive along with 25 rivets per side, with steel backing washers. Preparation for the use of this adhesive is key. Have the surface clean. I used acetone to be sure there was no residual oil from my air saw. Drill your holes carefully with the riveting process in mind. You only have so much room for the riveter, either manual or air. Test fit all your rivets to insure they go in easily as you only have approximately 6 minutes of work time with the adhesive. Test your rivet gun to be sure you can get to all of the rivets before applying the glue. I put two rivets under the toe hold on the front of the BB and there is no way to get an air rivet gun in there, so be sure you have a manual tool available.

Prepare for the worst. If you have done much riveting you will know that all rivet tools, air or manual get jammed. My air riveter jammed at about the half way point on the first board! Have a backup plan because it will happen and you only have so much time.
I used a lot of C clamps to insure that if I had a rivet problem, the adhesive would still get a good and tight bond.

In conclusion... I’m pleased with the install process, and I have to say I would never install the BB’s without the adhesive. There is very little metal left around the rivets to keep the board in place. I know Fbomb and others have had success with just using rivets, but this is my story... LOL:face-icon-small-hap
I hope this helps someone who installs this great product.

I took your advice on my installation. I only have one side finished so far and I did it the same way you did yours instead I used a permatex bonding agent because its all that I could get. The washers are a nice touch also because in some places, there it very little metal for the rivet to clamp onto.
By the way F-Bomb, these things look great when they are installed. I compared the completed side to the stock side and it is like night and day. The better boards dont move at all but the stock side tends to flex a lot when you stand from side to side. Ill post some pics when its all done.
 
I took your advice on my installation. I only have one side finished so far and I did it the same way you did yours instead I used a permatex bonding agent because its all that I could get. The washers are a nice touch also because in some places, there it very little metal for the rivet to clamp onto.
By the way F-Bomb, these things look great when they are installed. I compared the completed side to the stock side and it is like night and day. The better boards dont move at all but the stock side tends to flex a lot when you stand from side to side. Ill post some pics when its all done.

I'm glad it went well for you. I agree they seem much stiffer than stock. I can't wait to get them on the snow for a real test!
 
When I installed my Better Boards, I used PL 3000 construction adhesive. Have used the same product on the last 3 sleds with good results. I agree with the concern about there not being much material left for the rivets to hold on to.
 
I put a set on this summer and they look awesome. I have to admit though that I am a little afraid of them being weak. I had been running stock boards with the fishbone stiffiner and now the boards seem to flex more. Any body else feel this way? I way 220# and the are the HD version. Just a little afraid of jumping on one side and reefing away up a sidehill and looking down to see bent boards.
 
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