i have a 2014 rmk and a buddy of mine had a 2011 rmk that he had the pistons go 3 times and he had to get a whole new engine everytime. i was wondering if getting new pistons every so often would help prevent them from blowing and having to replace the whole engine.
how to prevent engine blowing
- Thread starter jaydenb5.4
- Start date
piston failure generally doesn't take out a whole motor. so maybe you friend had some other issues with that sled. that being said i don't think you can replace the pistons soon enough. i replaced the ones in my my13 after the second ride and have never had a issue . my friends sons cylinder skirts cracked at 80 hrs. so i'd just as soon change out the pistons sooner than later to prevent the metal fatigue .
If it was mine I would put rktek direct replacement pistons in before 1000 miles or so. Info is on there web site. How many miles on the 11 when it went 3 times. What year motors they put in. Curious because I got one with 1300 mi. Had pistons replaced at 1000 with stock pistons tho. Only ones dealer would install.
Send it to Indy Specialties and Long Rod it, if you intend to keep it more then a year.
The issue is not the pistons, but that is the cheapest part to change so a lot of companies have put together "fix it kits" that claim to be a "cure" a problem that is not the problem. It is a bandaid at best, just depends on your budget, do you want to fix it right? Or gamble?
FWIW; The Indy Specialties long rod has a 3 year warranty and they stand behind their promises / products. You don't get that from Polaris (or any other manufacture), nor any of the "Fix it Kits" either.
The issue is not the pistons, but that is the cheapest part to change so a lot of companies have put together "fix it kits" that claim to be a "cure" a problem that is not the problem. It is a bandaid at best, just depends on your budget, do you want to fix it right? Or gamble?
FWIW; The Indy Specialties long rod has a 3 year warranty and they stand behind their promises / products. You don't get that from Polaris (or any other manufacture), nor any of the "Fix it Kits" either.
Whats the ballpark $ for long rod if you got a good motor.
I think the summer price is $2500 and normally $3500. A phone call or check his eBay site for more exact pricing.
I don't want to start anything here, but I would not recomend RKT to anybody! Not even my enemies. FWIW
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Myself and my buddy both have turbo pro rmk's, 12' and 13', he has 2800 miles boosted, I have 1800 miles boosted, both have RKTech drop in kit Pistons, neither of us have had any problems with the engines. Just tore apart my buddies to do a top end because of miles, figured would be a good idea before season gets rolling. Pistons look brand new, put back together without swapping out Pistons, compression checked motor. Pistons are at 148 and 149. Maybe we're lucky. I would definitely recommend the long rod upgrade. That eliminates the slop that they are known for. Good Luck
15' BDX 940 Prolite Bikeman BigBore
13' ProRmk Turbo full custom build.
15' BDX 940 Prolite Bikeman BigBore
13' ProRmk Turbo full custom build.
Turned my oil pump up and add a splash to the fuel and added bikeman pistons at 500miles zero issues
I think the fact that every other post isn't about a blown motor speaks for itself. The 11-12 motors carried on the tradition of being a pos from the dragon which carried it on from the escape which carried it on from the edge. Congrats to Poo for only taking a little over a decade to make a somewhat reliable 800
Kudos...
Kudos...
Find a set of 2011-2012 cases and have them bored to fit the 13+ cylinders with as little clearance between the skirts and the cases. I have them bored so you can barely get the cylinder into the cases. My 2015 Pro has 12 cases on it now, and I have 3 sets of 11/12 cases sitting here for others when they decide to upgrade. I have run 09 cylinders on 600r/800 mono block conversions for years with no issues with the skirts at all (very tight tolerances), one is even an 860 with 09 cylinders. Besides the fact that Polaris is using hot garbage pistons, they are leaving to much clearance for good skirt support in the cases. That along with not setting the oil pump properly from the factory seems to be a common issue. Amazing the difference in stock pistons from one with not enough oil and one that has had the pump turned up.
If the fix it kit that basically lengthens the piston is a bandage so is the long-rod that lengthens to rod, one just costs a whole lot more than the other. They both move the piston up to change the angle and re-leave some of the pressure put on the cylinder walls. Now granted if you want to pay $3000.00 so you get a warranty go for it.
All that being said, I install Fix-it Kits, BMP, RK-TEK's (drop in's), Hanson Racing Engine's, and my own, which are just M8 aftermarket pistons and plate/bolt kit. Honestly think they do help a bit with more case volume on a engine that is already suffering from a case volume deficiency. Plus again using good pistons is a plus compared to stock. Crap I used to install long-rod kits until my supplier started getting threatened legally by another competitor.
If the fix it kit that basically lengthens the piston is a bandage so is the long-rod that lengthens to rod, one just costs a whole lot more than the other. They both move the piston up to change the angle and re-leave some of the pressure put on the cylinder walls. Now granted if you want to pay $3000.00 so you get a warranty go for it.
All that being said, I install Fix-it Kits, BMP, RK-TEK's (drop in's), Hanson Racing Engine's, and my own, which are just M8 aftermarket pistons and plate/bolt kit. Honestly think they do help a bit with more case volume on a engine that is already suffering from a case volume deficiency. Plus again using good pistons is a plus compared to stock. Crap I used to install long-rod kits until my supplier started getting threatened legally by another competitor.
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BS! Every one of them has had issues also. But you were likely being Sarcastic. LOL
If you really want to prevent an "engine from blowing" get a snowboard, snow shoes, a pair of skis, etc.
BS! Every one of them has had issues also. But you were likely being Sarcastic. LOL
If you really want to prevent an "engine from blowing" get a snowboard, snow shoes, a pair of skis, etc.
sarcastic....of course. but just take 15 seconds to reflect on the history of the polaris 800cc engine from early 2000s until now..................
BS! Every one of them has had issues also. But you were likely being Sarcastic. LOL
If you really want to prevent an "engine from blowing" get a snowboard, snow shoes, a pair of skis, etc.
Actually he is a skidoo fanboy.
No sarcasm there.
Or logic either.
Just blinders in place
oh no, no fanboy of any make/model. i own a pro chassis rmk.....a 600 of course. i wouldnt dream of buying an 800 with their reputation for the last decade. lets hope this updated engine in the axys is a trend changer
Give them enough oil, don't hammer them until they are warmed up and heat soaked, run good fuel, well balanced clutch won't hurt. You'll be well prepared to have fun on an 800. While I wouldn't own an 08-10 unless it was given to me, the 14/15's are really pretty good, hard to find a 14/15 failure like you did with the 11/12s.
I will say that its apparent their are less 13+ issues as I buy cores and 13+ 3022449's are the hardest to come by. Very few and far between finding a 13+ engines messed up.
I have a 2012 with a little over 1500 miles on it. I just put new pistons and rings in it in October. Old pistons looked really good when I pulled them out, and no issues with cylinders or cylinder skirt. I turned up oil pump on the sled when I bought it brand new. I've always done all the maintenance on time and added a little venting. I've ridden the sled the last 3 years now and never had an issue. I think a little preventive maintenance goes a long way, just like anything else.
Surprised you people left out one major point; piston-to-wall clearance. Why some run 500 miles and fail while others run 3000 miles with no issues (my belief).
If you fix it from a breakdown or just upgrade to new parts, get it checked for correct specs! Piston to wall and ring end gap. If those two are off = timebomb weather it is Stock/RKT/Wössner/Wiseco/SPI/Pro-X.
Fix-kits with spacers and longer pistons get good reviews, so does long rod. If I could trust myself to keep my -11 for 2-3 more years I would go -15 stock pistons and LR crank.
RS
If you fix it from a breakdown or just upgrade to new parts, get it checked for correct specs! Piston to wall and ring end gap. If those two are off = timebomb weather it is Stock/RKT/Wössner/Wiseco/SPI/Pro-X.
Fix-kits with spacers and longer pistons get good reviews, so does long rod. If I could trust myself to keep my -11 for 2-3 more years I would go -15 stock pistons and LR crank.
RS
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