how many2011pros havent had crank bearing issues
- Thread starter dirtymax
- Start date
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Rev Kev
Well-known member
Found it, adjusting the oil pump doesn't look too bad
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277595&highlight=oil+pump+adjustment
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theletup
Well-known member
Yeah I had a bad feeling after riding 200 miles on my 2011 and only using 1/2 tank of oil. My 08 D7 has 4000+ on the original motor and uses almost twice as much oil. I think I'll be turning the pump screw a turn or two before this weekend and start monitoring to figure out the actual ratio I'm getting
and a 12 with 700
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theletup
Well-known member
The 5 gallon can warning is just so you can do the math easier. It's not going to hurt if you add it directly to the tank. The way to do it is top off your tank, your tank holds 11 gallons (if I recall, could be wrong). So you do the math with 11 gallons of fuel. Either way the oil is going in the tank and is actually going to be more accurate if you mix it in the tank. If you mix in a 5 gallon can then you're not taking in to account the fuel that's already in the sled so it would be an incorrect mixture...
I'm not sure how all the other dealers work but when I bought my sled they already had the correct amount of oil added to the gas tank and told me just to top off the tank and go ride it. They recommended that only the first tank be premixed for break in. Premixing the tank isn't going to do anything to help your crank bearings. It never makes it into the crank case. The only way to add more oil to the crank is by turning up the pump.
I'm not sure how all the other dealers work but when I bought my sled they already had the correct amount of oil added to the gas tank and told me just to top off the tank and go ride it. They recommended that only the first tank be premixed for break in. Premixing the tank isn't going to do anything to help your crank bearings. It never makes it into the crank case. The only way to add more oil to the crank is by turning up the pump.
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Dabull
Well-known member
According to SLP the way this motor oils it does a great job of getting oil to the crank. They highly recommend adding an oz of oil to every gallon of gas in every tank to lube the upper half of the motor that never gets oil. They claim they have tore into several of these motors and the ones that have been running a premix oil on top of the factory oil settings look far better then the ones that haven't. Just what I was told, been mixing in mine the last 150 miles and haven't noticed any difference in performance guess we will see how it holds up.
I've been mixing my 2012 100:1 since new. Well, except for break in. That was 40:1
if you look at the injectors..they sit in the transfer ports, and the tip points up toward the chamber....makes it pretty tough to get oil/fuel to the crankcase..turning the oiler up does put extra oil into the crankcase..maybe a good thing would be do both, turn the oiler up, and add premix...
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I do both, seems like cheap insurance to me.
pro problems
my 11 has 1200 miles and has not been pulling rpm very well this year so i changed everythin that usually is the prob (springs cleaned power valves clutches exc) with no help, even changing clutch weights made no rpm change. the sled still run's fine but after calling around to several engine tuners and builders around the country they all say the same thing "change your pistons" the engine is the same setup as the dragon with too short of rods which put a lot of side load on the piston skirts making them rock in the cylinder causing them to fail. polaris knows about the problem and rather than fixing the actual problem they just beef up the pistons and cylinder skirts and calls it good enough. so back to the original topic so i pulled mine and sure enough the pistons were worn badly and the rings were shot (chrome flaking and pitting on the ring seal surface), and polaris wont warrenty the pistons unless they fail, so now its out of my pocket to replace them even though they are no good and causing loss in power. so my suggestion which was suggested to me, change your piston's often and turn you oil inj up and maybe it will last longer
my 11 has 1200 miles and has not been pulling rpm very well this year so i changed everythin that usually is the prob (springs cleaned power valves clutches exc) with no help, even changing clutch weights made no rpm change. the sled still run's fine but after calling around to several engine tuners and builders around the country they all say the same thing "change your pistons" the engine is the same setup as the dragon with too short of rods which put a lot of side load on the piston skirts making them rock in the cylinder causing them to fail. polaris knows about the problem and rather than fixing the actual problem they just beef up the pistons and cylinder skirts and calls it good enough. so back to the original topic so i pulled mine and sure enough the pistons were worn badly and the rings were shot (chrome flaking and pitting on the ring seal surface), and polaris wont warrenty the pistons unless they fail, so now its out of my pocket to replace them even though they are no good and causing loss in power. so my suggestion which was suggested to me, change your piston's often and turn you oil inj up and maybe it will last longer
???? huh?
The reason why you mix in a five gallon can is so you can actually mix it. If you just pour into the tank the oil can just sit on the bottom. And hopefully you will never run it down to almost empty because you then create a lean condition and possible burn down.
Anyway to un hijack this thread I got a 2012 with 220 trouble free miles! Local guy around here rides for a living and he has over 3200 miles on his 2012 with zero problems! But I also turned my oiler up and am running about 35:1. Zero fouling issues!
Flawless victory! 1600 miles. Best sled I've ever owned. Made me a better rider. Only bad part of the sled is the weak lower a arms.
