How many Turbo kits are truely install and ride?
- Thread starter Turbopro
- Start date
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Spaarky
Well-known member
Alright.. jeepin, I am a little confused... not bashing, just trying to clear up my confusion..
I am assuming that dyno sheet says your peak HP is at 7500? just by what you have said in the past posts
first you say you are trying to get under 8,000 rpm, than you said you would be happy with 8,100.
tell us what your sled is doing now and what you are trying to accomplish? Seems like there is a whole bunch of ideas being thrown out... and its unclear where you are at, and what you are trying to accomplish... maybe I am missing something, that is just the way I look at it...
I am assuming that dyno sheet says your peak HP is at 7500? just by what you have said in the past posts
first you say you are trying to get under 8,000 rpm, than you said you would be happy with 8,100.
tell us what your sled is doing now and what you are trying to accomplish? Seems like there is a whole bunch of ideas being thrown out... and its unclear where you are at, and what you are trying to accomplish... maybe I am missing something, that is just the way I look at it...
what do you mean by that statement? like it ran great for two years and now it doesnt?
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jeepin270
Well-known member
I am trying to get my rpm's down to at least 8100 without losing all the snappiness that I have now. If I jus load up the flyweights it gets lazy on bottom. I am revving to 8550 now.
A lot has changed since I took it to have dynoed. I changed gearing added a intercooler and switched to a different track. 21 41 gearing.
I have always had a problem with it over revving.
A lot has changed since I took it to have dynoed. I changed gearing added a intercooler and switched to a different track. 21 41 gearing.
I have always had a problem with it over revving.
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Spaarky
Well-known member
K... I am not a clutching eggspurt. I would try to accomplish it in one of two ways...
Steeper helix or gearing it up. Where are you on gearing? Your riding at a low elevation.. you should be able to gear that turbo to the moon and still have good bottom end.
I am sorry, but your going to have to go beyond what you currently have for clutching. IMO, without going through some notes, what you have for clutching is real similar to what the guys have for high alt. Eventhough, even at altitude your not shaving much hp with the turbo. (talkin outloud here)
You hit the nail on the head with not wanting to add more weight in the primary. You need to load the motor with another means... and still allow it to spin the turbo fairly freely. Make sense?
If your having no luck with Justin.. you said, you have a HM intercooler kit.. maybe try Shane. He might be willing to help.
I am at a bit of a loss, because the cluthing you have in is real similar to the sleds we put together(silber). When we had em here in SD(similar elevation) they were right on. It took us about 5 mns of adjusting the fuel controler. They were only running about 6lbs though. The difference between 6 and 10 is huge too...
EDIT: just saw your gearing.. IMO at your elevation you could be in the 1.75-1.85:1 range.. and have no problems, maybe even taller... right now your at 1.95:1
Steeper helix or gearing it up. Where are you on gearing? Your riding at a low elevation.. you should be able to gear that turbo to the moon and still have good bottom end.
I am sorry, but your going to have to go beyond what you currently have for clutching. IMO, without going through some notes, what you have for clutching is real similar to what the guys have for high alt. Eventhough, even at altitude your not shaving much hp with the turbo. (talkin outloud here)
You hit the nail on the head with not wanting to add more weight in the primary. You need to load the motor with another means... and still allow it to spin the turbo fairly freely. Make sense?
If your having no luck with Justin.. you said, you have a HM intercooler kit.. maybe try Shane. He might be willing to help.
I am at a bit of a loss, because the cluthing you have in is real similar to the sleds we put together(silber). When we had em here in SD(similar elevation) they were right on. It took us about 5 mns of adjusting the fuel controler. They were only running about 6lbs though. The difference between 6 and 10 is huge too...
EDIT: just saw your gearing.. IMO at your elevation you could be in the 1.75-1.85:1 range.. and have no problems, maybe even taller... right now your at 1.95:1
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aebsledder
Well-known member
A tale of two turbos
I ride quite frequently with a couple of different Polaris turbos.
1. 09 800 Boondocker Kit. EBC, timing key, intercooler. This kit was installed by a well known dealer for boondocker. I have a distinct feeling he was very busy when he installed the kit. My buddy bought it because he thought it would be "cool" to have a turbo. Out of the 12 or so rides he has been on in the last few years it has run good ONCE. The others he has limped it back or had to be towed out. He has put in a new topend, electronics, etc. Probably has close to 16,000 into the sled. He had no prior knowledge of turbos before, and no tuning experience. It has been utterly painful to watch him try and make it work.
2. 12 Pro RMK 800 Boondocker Kit. Installed by the owner of the sled. He owned two Boondocker M8's with over 4000 trouble free miles on both sleds. His Pro RMK is the same. Pulls the rope and rides. The only problem I am aware of him having was dialing in his clutching to keep the r's down. This guy builds race cars from the ground up, has thousands of hours of tuning experience, has a very well appointed shop, and a vast knowledge of all things mechanical. He has guys calling him from all corners of the country to help them tune their sleds. He is very meticulous, and takes phenomenal care of all his things.
I guess my point is it sure seems to me that people who are mechanically inclined are waaaay more likely to have a good running turbo sled. I would think that when you have an engine that small making more horsepower than most cars it would take some skill in the tuning and maintenance department to keep them running well. I think the folks that do have good running set-ups downplay their own knowledge, just because it comes naturally to them, or they have worked very hard to achieve that level of knowledge.
I ride quite frequently with a couple of different Polaris turbos.
1. 09 800 Boondocker Kit. EBC, timing key, intercooler. This kit was installed by a well known dealer for boondocker. I have a distinct feeling he was very busy when he installed the kit. My buddy bought it because he thought it would be "cool" to have a turbo. Out of the 12 or so rides he has been on in the last few years it has run good ONCE. The others he has limped it back or had to be towed out. He has put in a new topend, electronics, etc. Probably has close to 16,000 into the sled. He had no prior knowledge of turbos before, and no tuning experience. It has been utterly painful to watch him try and make it work.
2. 12 Pro RMK 800 Boondocker Kit. Installed by the owner of the sled. He owned two Boondocker M8's with over 4000 trouble free miles on both sleds. His Pro RMK is the same. Pulls the rope and rides. The only problem I am aware of him having was dialing in his clutching to keep the r's down. This guy builds race cars from the ground up, has thousands of hours of tuning experience, has a very well appointed shop, and a vast knowledge of all things mechanical. He has guys calling him from all corners of the country to help them tune their sleds. He is very meticulous, and takes phenomenal care of all his things.
I guess my point is it sure seems to me that people who are mechanically inclined are waaaay more likely to have a good running turbo sled. I would think that when you have an engine that small making more horsepower than most cars it would take some skill in the tuning and maintenance department to keep them running well. I think the folks that do have good running set-ups downplay their own knowledge, just because it comes naturally to them, or they have worked very hard to achieve that level of knowledge.
i got my turbo pro all set up from the previous owner.
2011 pro rmk 163 w/ 2011 bd pumpgas kit
i only added the intercooler and antiratchet drivers and other little stuff.
BUT
i went through the whole kit and made sure all wiring was correct, no chaffing, tight bolts, checked oils, etc etc(basic maintenance)
had a small issue with the brake light causing a DET issue due to my own stupidity. but after that was taken care of, this sled has been excellent!
just look things over before/after each ride and run good fuel. dont be afraid to make some calls to people who run/install the kit you have and b/s with them a bit. there are many people here on the forums that are amazing help.
i was leary of a turbo sled, but now im happy i took the leap of faith, its so much fun to ride a sled with the type of power these sleds can put down.
the things this sled can do make me do this
Good Luck
2011 pro rmk 163 w/ 2011 bd pumpgas kit
i only added the intercooler and antiratchet drivers and other little stuff.
BUT
i went through the whole kit and made sure all wiring was correct, no chaffing, tight bolts, checked oils, etc etc(basic maintenance)
had a small issue with the brake light causing a DET issue due to my own stupidity. but after that was taken care of, this sled has been excellent!
just look things over before/after each ride and run good fuel. dont be afraid to make some calls to people who run/install the kit you have and b/s with them a bit. there are many people here on the forums that are amazing help.
i was leary of a turbo sled, but now im happy i took the leap of faith, its so much fun to ride a sled with the type of power these sleds can put down.
the things this sled can do make me do this
Good Luck
Did some more digging into my sled and found what I think is my issue. I bought a analog meter and check my tps on the sled, found that at idle it was showing about 20000 ohms then about 1/4 throttle it would settle out around 2k ohms and slowly increased until WOT. Yippe finally found my problem right, maybe. I bring the TPS to the house and test it and it only appears to be a really slight bad spot around what I would guess is around 1/4 throttle. Nonetheless it appears there is a issue so I will replace it. Just wondering if it is possible for the TPS to change values when tightened.
12 Pro Silbers kit very happy with it. I was very leery of buying a kit because we have a guy with a 09 Dragon and boondockers setup and he burned down two motors and was constantly working on it until 3 pm until he got it right. Now this kit I do work on it every time before I go out and ride make sure it's stored dry check all the connections. listen to this one I had a low end bog couldn't seem to get rid of even playing with the control box my afr was E9 just at low idle then it was at until 5000 and noticed when I turned my handwarmers off the bog would go away.
The check engine light came on read the code and said low voltage so I put a battery in this ride to run the afr and EGTs ran great all day but the AFR went back to E9 at the end of the ride but I'm taken it to the dealer this week to see why it won't run everything.
Back to the thread Weather it's a stocker or a turbo I seem to always work on my sleds could be just scotch brite my clutches or tighten my track I just don't want to be the one who has to sit at the trailer all day and wait for my buddies.
The check engine light came on read the code and said low voltage so I put a battery in this ride to run the afr and EGTs ran great all day but the AFR went back to E9 at the end of the ride but I'm taken it to the dealer this week to see why it won't run everything.
Back to the thread Weather it's a stocker or a turbo I seem to always work on my sleds could be just scotch brite my clutches or tighten my track I just don't want to be the one who has to sit at the trailer all day and wait for my buddies.
Another 3 rides on mine!I had to turn boost down at lower elevation (hit rev limiter) . 5#lbs @8500ft or 7# @ 10000Ft = same difference. Pretty simple turn the knob tuning IMO. put good gas in add some oil in the tank and ride the chit out of it. I decided when i put my money down that if it isnt more or less pull and go I would put it back to stock. Now the only reason I would not have one is I dont need that much power. It sure as hell is fun Though.
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I had low voltage at idle as well. I took the sled in and they adjusted my tps to the high limit at idle. Now it idles at 2500-2600 but the E9 went away. The reverse works better and the pipe seems to be keeping warmer so when I take off the response is definately better.
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
Isn't it annoying to you having the sled idle that high? The sled in noticably louder idling at 2500rpm vs the normal 1800.
I don't even notice anymore. It's better then rigging up a battery pack that may require charging.
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Anthony Oberti
Well-known member
My Carls Cycle BD Turbo has been flawless this year. I literally have not touched the box once or changed a single fuel setting. It has been spot on! I have done nothing but add fuel, oil and enjoy the sled. About 500 miles and still the same plugs, reeds, belt, etc. Very happy 
I have a 2011 Pro 155 I purchased new from Alpine Motor Sports (VOHK) last season. They asked me to put about 100miles on the sled then bring it back to have the Boondocker pump gas turbo installed. I have about 1100 miles on it and I have done nothing but add oil and gas to the snowmboile I am running 7.5lbs of boost and 50/50 - av/91 - It has never burped, coughed or had any issues, just runs perfectly. I couldnt tell you any of the setting because I have not touched a thing. Eric from Alpine set it up and took me to rabbit ears and we road it for a few min. he made a couple of changes to the control box, then said here you go. To say I am happy with the setup and sled is an understatement.
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judger101
Well-known member
to answer the original question in the title.......NO
lol if you want true pull and go buy a stock sled and trade for a new one every 1-2 years.
this isnt true. buy a yamaha and get an mcx kit. it is gas and go
no in my experiance
i had no luck. 2011 with silbers new kit. when it ran good i would chew threw belts like crazy.i also got sick of watching the afr guage all the time to make sure shes not gonna melt down. i couldn't get rid of the hot spot in the mid range when it started to build boost. i went threw 2 tps sensors. i got sick of trying to figure things out so i pulled the kit off and and now riding it totaly stock. also after 500 kms my compression is now low. now with the kit off and low compression i can't get passed 7800 for rpm. i personaly won't buy another turbo till it comes stock from factory.
i had no luck. 2011 with silbers new kit. when it ran good i would chew threw belts like crazy.i also got sick of watching the afr guage all the time to make sure shes not gonna melt down. i couldn't get rid of the hot spot in the mid range when it started to build boost. i went threw 2 tps sensors. i got sick of trying to figure things out so i pulled the kit off and and now riding it totaly stock. also after 500 kms my compression is now low. now with the kit off and low compression i can't get passed 7800 for rpm. i personaly won't buy another turbo till it comes stock from factory.
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