How light can you get a Pro?

[Matte Murder]

I helped derail someones thread so thought I would post my derail topic here. How light can you get a Pro? I was thinking 40lbs off would be reasonable without going to a carbon chassis and the $10,000 that would cost. The Pro is already light so I think there are less products there to make it super light like the Cat has or even Doo.
Fox front shocks: 4 lbs. $1300
Toms skid with Fox shocks: 10lbs $2000
Diamond S hood: 11lbs $425
Ti bolt kit: 5lbs $500
Foam: 2lbs $0
Ti upper A arms: 3lbs $600

The shocks and skid are something I am doing anyway. So for $1500 plus that I am at 35lbs off. Now the add back ons are E start(10lbs or less with lightweight battery), LED lights 2lbs, better bumpers 2lbs, so net net net is 20lbs off without going crazy on the bank account but I have a tougher more user friendly sled that rides a ton better.

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

You could knock off a couple pounds with a with a head light delete and mounting a single led. Lighter and better light output. Also wrap the tunnel. I know it adds a little weight, but the snow that's not sticking to it is hudge.

 

[Matte Murder]

The Diamond S hood is a headlight delete, major way they lose the weight. And I have listed the add back for LED lights. One thing I am going to try this year is the new paint that is going around that keeps snow from sticking. Thinking of doing the suspension and tunnel with it.

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

missed the hood. my bad. I'm anxious to hear how that paint works as well.

 

[Snodawg]

How come you only listed upper a-arms. Alt Impact sells all four a-arms in Ti for $785 Lose about 8 lbs off of the 11/12 sleds not sure on the 13.

 

[Leaf27]

You guys are killing me, CAN'T ****IN WAIT FOR THE SEASON TO START!

 

[INDEEP]

Slp claims 4 lbs. on their 2013 can. Others may be even lighter.

 

[Matte Murder]

It is my understanding that the 2013 lower ares are really light and a different design. If Alt IM makes a set of top and bottom that still loses 8lbs for $800 I am in. For an 11 or 12 it is a no brainer, the Pro arms are made of cheese. They are really brittle so I would love to get them off the sled. Easy to sell too, just keep them in the trailer until someone needs them. The can is an easy 4-5lbs but I dont want to make it louder or lose power and i haven't heard of a can that is lighter and at least keeps the power the same. Again, if it happens I am in. I lost 15lbs on my ETEC with the SLP pipe and Y and can and loved how it sounded.

 

[Matte Murder]

Did some more research on the paint. It looks heavy and is REALLY expensive. The stuff is sold by "between the lines designs" and they use it for the running boards. It looks like truck bed coating and might add a lot of weight. Gotta call them and ask them some questions.

 

[vdog0531]

seems like tons of cash to spend to lose 20 pounds to me. i get that the sled will be tougher and lighter and perform slightly better... just seems like a huge chunk of coin. you could boost it and have a MUCH better performing sled rather than lose 20 pounds. but, i do get it, turbo is way more work than a stocker and you do lose some dependability. different strokes for different folks!

 

[philsummers21]

Cant take your money with you when you die.

 

[druchti]

Slp claims 4 lbs. on their 2013 can. Others may be even lighter.

I heard the HPS was 7 pounds lighter...not 100% if that was confirmed but that was the word last year

 

[Dirt2oil]

What brand of led lights were you thinking? I have a headlight delete in mine and was wanting to maybe put in some sorta light. Havent put much thought into it yet tho

 

[4Z]

Oil delete would be cool....

 

[INDEEP]

PAR/Ftx 1100 set up for carbs and pre mix would save 25 lbs plus. Add some power too.

 

[LoudHandle]

IMHO, adding electric start to a lightweight mountain sled is like having a Vette with a trailer hitch, but again just my humble opinion. Before the electronic reverse I refused to put the extra weight of the mechanical reverse on my sleds. I also helped derail the other thread. By claiming a 400# wet sled ( not specificly a PRO, but was in a PRO thread) was achievable. Matte politely called BS. My thoughts are a completely CF chassis, a CF version of the EZ Ride, CF body panels, titanium bolts were needed, aluminum fasteners were adequate, Narrow front and rear suspensions (~36" front width and likely 12" wide track narrowing tunnel and Bodywork accordingly), I personally don't care for the inconsistent performance from the air shocks so I will be using exits or raptors with TI springs, there is still a good twenty plus pounds to lose by developing a better system to get the power from the engine to the track (but that is under development and my patent lawyers told me to not disclose or make any claims about it for now). I have no idea of cost but for a one off, I'd guess near 30 large. Really not much more than some of you have in your rides now with a decent turbo or big bore kit and some aftermarket goodies.

 

[geo]

Your using magazine scales. You really need to use real scales and be honest with yourself.

The previous poster (Par 1100) pointed the way.

 

[turboless terry]

How come you only listed upper a-arms. Alt Impact sells all four a-arms in Ti for $785 Lose about 8 lbs off of the 11/12 sleds not sure on the 13.

6 pounds and 13 arms are lighter. Most of the weight is in the lowers.

 

[Matte Murder]

Dirt2oil contact off road rider on SW. He has a trick LED set up that attaches to your bars that has much better light than stock, super compact and draws less power. Even better he sells an HID helmet light(LED too but not as bright or costly) that has 1900 Lumens. Pretty amazing and the best part is that the light is where you are looking. Makes night riding really fun.
Loudhandle I get crap all the time for the e start. I have 2 hooks, both my hands were blown off by an IED. Makes starting sleds really hard. Just ffing with you. lol. Really I am just a crippled old man, broken back, dislocated right shoulder and a neck that feels like it's made of glass sometimes. I like to shut my Pro down whenever I stop, keeps the temps down and the plugs cleaner IMHO so on a long day I might start it 25 times. For 10lbs it is worth it to me, one of the reasons I try and take weight off in the first place.
I really think I would need to drop 40 net pounds to really feel it. Huge part of the sled weight is the track. 60lbs minimum. That seems like a ripe target there, wonder why we haven't seen a kevlar, plastic something track that drops 25lbs of huge rotational weight. Even 15lbs would be easy to feel both in power and handling.

 

[Vfrtrader]

$500 for 5lbs. for bolts, that's crazy.