I'm making some home made vents and im looking for a way to attach prefilter material to the stock plastic,any ideas? Glue gun, heat press, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.thanks
HOME MADE VENTING
- Thread starter sledsnowco
- Start date
I have used a good 2 sided tape, it works good as long as you put something over it like another plastic and then rivet the plastic over it. I have also found that plastic mud flap works well for making venting ( what is used on semi truck and trailers)
T
theshadowrider
Well-known member
I would not recommend glue gun, does not take much heat to make a mess of the hot glue. I know this from experience. ARRR!
The plastic to go around the vent is the missing part of how to put them together for me. Have a poly / lexan hood I never put on yet (got it cheap) as I want to vent it... don't want to pay a bunch of $ to get premade vents though, got the pet screen part already... seems like the truck flap material would be a little thick? Open to any ideas myself. Thanks for the double-sided tape idea for starters too!
For the outside plastic I used 1/8" ABS plastic that I bought off ebay in sheets. If you time it right and get lucky you can even find the ABS in different colors on there. I've got about $100 total into my 20 piece vent kit on my PRO and that includes the adhesive, rivets, prefilter, pet screen, and the plastic. If I were to have bought all those vents retail, it would have cost me around $700. I only used the prefilter on the clutch side vents.
Chad
Chad
3M makes a spray adhesive that works great. I used it on my HRP clutch side vents with no problems.
G
geo
Well-known member
I've used 3M spray on super adhesive (waterproof contact cement) and nothing else for a few years now. Ride through lots of trees and brush (75% of my riding).
Drill your pattern and chamfer the holes. Mask off the edges you want. Clean with acetone. Spray on glue. Carefully and economically place your sheet of prefilter onto the hood. Spread and apply pressure with a rubber edged grout spreader (dip lightly in water as you go, a bit of moisture is said to help adhesion) like you are applying a decal. Let it dry an hour and carefully (only enough to cut through prefilter) use a sharp fresh razor knife to cut along masking tape. Peel and voila LOL!
Next day you can clean-up overspray with actone and finger-rub any glue that oozed through the prefilter off. Finally wipe off the prefilter lightly with acetone to remove any traces of glue on the outer surface.
That prefilter is tough and tear resistant. I've screwed up just because it is the rule and quickly peeled it off. Repreped the hood and wiped the glue of the prefilter material with acetone and no ill effects on the stuff.
If you use holes (instead off large cut-outs) there is no need for pet screen (just restricts air flow anyway). Most branches and shrubs just slide along and don't catch but if one pokes in (I don't go bigger than 3/4" hole anyway but only 1/2" alternating 5/8" pattern on leading vents) the material does not tear any further and returns to it's glued in postion. To find the tear you actually have to poke your finger in and it still does it's job of stopping snow.
I used to apply a 1/2" strip of black duct tape on the leading edges of the forward vents but don't anymore. The stuff just stays and snow slides off unlike the poorly designed aftermarket vents with edges and petscreen surface. It's less wieght too LOL.
I started doing this because the aftermarket stuff is rediculous in price and didn't address airflow through the hood at slow speeds or the use of gravity to keep the vents clear.
You need to look at the picture from a static convection point of view (hot air rises) unlike the stock vents that usually provide flow from speed (rarely seen on a mountain sled lol) and address noise issues for the EPA.
In the clutch area a little thought and smoke will show you that a bunch of holes in the side don't utilize the natural "fan" effect of the clutches and belt (belt mostly). Most of my sleds have shown the cold air comes in from the knees while moving and exit out above the primary. If you don't provide an exit above the primary your left foot gets hot (especially if you ride a Cat lol). A little belt cover modification may be required lol.
A perfect example of how not to do it (slow speed clutch venting) is the 2012 AC PC. It required 100 mph to add cool air lol.
One mans opinion.
Drill your pattern and chamfer the holes. Mask off the edges you want. Clean with acetone. Spray on glue. Carefully and economically place your sheet of prefilter onto the hood. Spread and apply pressure with a rubber edged grout spreader (dip lightly in water as you go, a bit of moisture is said to help adhesion) like you are applying a decal. Let it dry an hour and carefully (only enough to cut through prefilter) use a sharp fresh razor knife to cut along masking tape. Peel and voila LOL!
Next day you can clean-up overspray with actone and finger-rub any glue that oozed through the prefilter off. Finally wipe off the prefilter lightly with acetone to remove any traces of glue on the outer surface.
That prefilter is tough and tear resistant. I've screwed up just because it is the rule and quickly peeled it off. Repreped the hood and wiped the glue of the prefilter material with acetone and no ill effects on the stuff.
If you use holes (instead off large cut-outs) there is no need for pet screen (just restricts air flow anyway). Most branches and shrubs just slide along and don't catch but if one pokes in (I don't go bigger than 3/4" hole anyway but only 1/2" alternating 5/8" pattern on leading vents) the material does not tear any further and returns to it's glued in postion. To find the tear you actually have to poke your finger in and it still does it's job of stopping snow.
I used to apply a 1/2" strip of black duct tape on the leading edges of the forward vents but don't anymore. The stuff just stays and snow slides off unlike the poorly designed aftermarket vents with edges and petscreen surface. It's less wieght too LOL.
I started doing this because the aftermarket stuff is rediculous in price and didn't address airflow through the hood at slow speeds or the use of gravity to keep the vents clear.
You need to look at the picture from a static convection point of view (hot air rises) unlike the stock vents that usually provide flow from speed (rarely seen on a mountain sled lol) and address noise issues for the EPA.
In the clutch area a little thought and smoke will show you that a bunch of holes in the side don't utilize the natural "fan" effect of the clutches and belt (belt mostly). Most of my sleds have shown the cold air comes in from the knees while moving and exit out above the primary. If you don't provide an exit above the primary your left foot gets hot (especially if you ride a Cat lol). A little belt cover modification may be required lol.
A perfect example of how not to do it (slow speed clutch venting) is the 2012 AC PC. It required 100 mph to add cool air lol.
One mans opinion.
Last edited:
Post #7 - 3M Black Super Weatherstripping Adhesive has held up great
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281727
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281727
Thanks everyone, sounds like 3m has it coverd in the adhesive category.I should have my vents made soon and will post pics when done..
It can be found a NAPA Auto!! 
I used Frog Skin and bought the "real" duct tape. I put it around the cut holes- half of the tape stuck to the plastic- half on the Frog Skin. The duct tape is the stuff with a silver metallic foil on the outside used for actual air ducts. You buy it at Home Depot. It has held up great for 3 years. My son has the sled now and it has never come loose yet.
shoe goo works great...
"winter" used it in his vent kits for his IQR builds.
"winter" used it in his vent kits for his IQR builds.
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