help with tps and carb syn. setting

[mngoat]

2008 800 dragon. I need some clarification on setting the synch. componant with the tps tool.

This is what i have done....Have home made checking tool that puts out 5 volts exactly. With throttle bodies on the bench i checked current setting which was .937volts. Backed off the idle adjustment screw so it was no longer touching and backed off the synch screw so that the screw was no longer touching but the arms where. Took reading- .675volts. Loosened 2 screws on TPS and adjusted till it read .705, then locked down screws. Opened and closed throttle to verify .705volts. Seemed good. Then turned in synch screw till i seen a change on the meter. Some postings said this was the setting for that but it was obvious that my the pto side was closed and the mag side was just open a whisker. I can take the screw and bring it in so the meter starts to read .750 then back off till i hit .705 again and this synch's the throttle bodies but i don't know if this is the proper way to do it. I then set the idle adjustment to the proper spec.


I must be missing something, do i need to remove the small spring that is associated with the synch arm's for setting on the 800's? Thanks for the feed back.

 

[Kraven]

T.P.S. Throttle blade synchronization

To adjust the throttle plate synchronization follow these steps;

1) Perform the T.P.S. Baseline Adjustment. The T.P.S. must be set to specification.

2) Carefully back the synchronization screw out so it no longer touches the tab, but do not remove the screw or the spring.

3) Verify the T.P.S. voltage is set to 0.70 volts +/- .01 volts. If it is not re-perform the baseline adjustment.

4) Slowly turn the synchronization screw inwards until the instant the voltage on the meter changes. Back the screw out so the voltage reads 0.70 volts +/- .01 volts

Hope this helps

2008 800 dragon. I need some clarification on setting the synch. componant with the tps tool.

This is what i have done....Have home made checking tool that puts out 5 volts exactly. With throttle bodies on the bench i checked current setting which was .937volts. Backed off the idle adjustment screw so it was no longer touching and backed off the synch screw so that the screw was no longer touching but the arms where. Took reading- .675volts. Loosened 2 screws on TPS and adjusted till it read .705, then locked down screws. Opened and closed throttle to verify .705volts. Seemed good. Then turned in synch screw till i seen a change on the meter. Some postings said this was the setting for that but it was obvious that my the pto side was closed and the mag side was just open a whisker. I can take the screw and bring it in so the meter starts to read .750 then back off till i hit .705 again and this synch's the throttle bodies but i don't know if this is the proper way to do it. I then set the idle adjustment to the proper spec.


I must be missing something, do i need to remove the small spring that is associated with the synch arm's for setting on the 800's? Thanks for the feed back.

 

[mngoat]

Thanks Kraven. I must still be missing something. Did steps exactly as stated in the manual. I checked baseline which is at .705, back out the synch screw and it stays at .705 but when i bring the screw back in and watch the meter the second it goes from .705 to .702 or 3 I stop. At this point the screw has just started touching the throttle arm and the carbs are not in synch. Perchaps they are not supposed to be. You can see that the pto side is closed but the mag side is open just a whisker. Like i said b/4 the only way i can get them synch'd is to bring the screw in a ways so the meter will read .750 or so then back it off so I'm back at .705. Thanks for any more info.

 

[jcrjet]

From the manual.....it says...and I quote...

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT
Throttle Valve Synchronization
All throttle valve synchronization adjustments are made to the
MAG throttle valve. The PTO throttle valve is non-adjustable
and considered the base throttle valve.
Throttle valve synchronization can be performed with the
carburetor rack installed or removed from the engine.
1. If running, turn off engine. Remove the air box.
2. Remove the carburetor covers.
3. Hold the throttle bell crank wide open on the carburetor.
4. The bottoms of each throttle valve should be flush with the
top of the intake bores.
5. If adjustment is required, hold the PTO carburetor flush
with the top of intake bore. Turn the throttle stop screw in
or out to set the PTO throttle slide flush with the intake
bore.
6. Once the PTO carburetor slide is flush, loosen the Phillips
head screw, located under the top cover on the MAG
carburetor.
7. While holding the PTO carburetor slide flush to the top of
the carburetor, rotate the synchronization nut clockwise to
raise the slide and counterclockwise to lower the slide.
8. Adjust the synchronization nut until it is even with the PTO
slide.
9. Once this is flush, lock the locking screw.
10. Replace the carburetor covers.
11. If removed, reinstall the fuel, vent, throttle, and choke hose
and cable connections.
12. Verify and set throttle cable free play.

Hope this helps.

Jason

 

[jcrjet]

Sorry, I didn't realize you were talking CFI, not Carb.

Jason

 

[EricW]

Thanks Kraven. I must still be missing something. Did steps exactly as stated in the manual. I checked baseline which is at .705, back out the synch screw and it stays at .705 but when i bring the screw back in and watch the meter the second it goes from .705 to .702 or 3 I stop. At this point the screw has just started touching the throttle arm and the carbs are not in synch. Perchaps they are not supposed to be. You can see that the pto side is closed but the mag side is open just a whisker. Like i said b/4 the only way i can get them synch'd is to bring the screw in a ways so the meter will read .750 or so then back it off so I'm back at .705. Thanks for any more info.

My 08 800 looked just like yours at a glance. I just set it up as posted and decided to give it a try. My idle was better (way high before) and my sled now starts first pull more than half the time. It never started first pull before. It looked wierd to have one butterfly different than the other but it did work better.

Now I wonder if there is a possibility that my sled could be a 1 pull sled if there is something not quite right about yours and mine. As a cheapo, I'll be watching up to 75 posts to see what other say. Good post. EW