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Help? Nytro Turbo Clutch Setuo

I got a Nytro MTX with MXC kit with head shim. Run at about 2000 feet but head out west about 3 times a year. I guess I need to start by making this thing run aT 2000 FT.
 
I had Dustin at Outlaw set me up for altitude and its been perfect. The kits are a little pricey but well worth it. The expensive parts like the weights and helix are adjustable. All you'd need to do is order a couple extra springs and with the altitude instruction you'd be set.
 
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I had Dustin at Outlaw set me up for altitude and its been perfect. The kits are a little pricey but well worth it. The expensive parts like the weights and helix are adjustable. All you'd need to do is order a couple extra springs and with the altitude instruction you'd be set.

does this outlaw have a web site?
 
Yeah I am in the same boat I am in the process of installing a MCX 270 kit and I need to be set up for 1500 to 2000 ft and 6000+??
 
This is a pretty good set up for 6000-7000 feet at 12-13 psi.

Blue/White/Blue
8BU-00 weights 48.7+17grams = 68.7
17 Gram Rivets
14.5 Rollers
White Secondary Spring.
45 degree helix
Spring wound to 70 degrees
 
A shockwave is the ticket, quick tuning changes in a minute!
Depending on diffrent altitude, heavy or light snow a.s.o. you quickly make the necessary change, one of the best buys i made lately.
EPI purple have good belt squeeze, and less twist force then AC green, which is a good thing on turbo Yamaha.
Any adjustable weight is good, i have Supertip from Ulmer Racing, but Heavy Hitters is as good, but if you not gone rise boost in a near future 8BU a'la T-Nytro is also most problably going to work.
 
T Nytro setup

My kit came complete with clutching installed for the T-kit. I ride at 2000' for the most part and head to the hills 3-4 times a year and ride at 6-8,000'. I change nothing except boost when I head west. One of the many benefeits of a t/c is the nominal loss of hp with altitude so I'm not sure why you would need to change the clutching a bunch. I believe there is about .5%/1,000' loss with t/c vs 3% without t/c. So that's about 2% loss in the 4,000' change in elevation from 2,000' to 6,000'. That's about 5.4hp loss if my numbers are correct. Considering the limited exposure to the higher elevation, mountain riding, is there a need to be re-clutching for less than 10hp loss on a 270hp engine?
 
My kit came complete with clutching installed for the T-kit. I ride at 2000' for the most part and head to the hills 3-4 times a year and ride at 6-8,000'. I change nothing except boost when I head west. One of the many benefeits of a t/c is the nominal loss of hp with altitude so I'm not sure why you would need to change the clutching a bunch. I believe there is about .5%/1,000' loss with t/c vs 3% without t/c. So that's about 2% loss in the 4,000' change in elevation from 2,000' to 6,000'. That's about 5.4hp loss if my numbers are correct. Considering the limited exposure to the higher elevation, mountain riding, is there a need to be re-clutching for less than 10hp loss on a 270hp engine?

Yeah that is always what I thought too! Good to hear as well seeing I will be doing the same thing, and won't have to buy two clutch setups.
 
My kit came complete with clutching installed for the T-kit. I ride at 2000' for the most part and head to the hills 3-4 times a year and ride at 6-8,000'. I change nothing except boost when I head west. One of the many benefeits of a t/c is the nominal loss of hp with altitude so I'm not sure why you would need to change the clutching a bunch. I believe there is about .5%/1,000' loss with t/c vs 3% without t/c. So that's about 2% loss in the 4,000' change in elevation from 2,000' to 6,000'. That's about 5.4hp loss if my numbers are correct. Considering the limited exposure to the higher elevation, mountain riding, is there a need to be re-clutching for less than 10hp loss on a 270hp engine?

Well give me tip to get me in the right direction.
 
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