Help me love this sled

[bailer]

I have a 163", 2.6. I moved from a 2013 XM 163", 2.5.

The ergonomics feel very similar, but I do like that the thin tunnel and tank are nicer to straddle.

Fit and finish is as good I think, and access is better with the quick off hood.

The climbing and sidehilling feel much the same, effortless and awesome. The engine and clutching feels to have more snap.

My only disappointment so far is the downhill maneuvers when there is any amount of bottom to the powder. I have my front standard shocks set loose, stabilizer off, and skis are set narrow.

Downhill offcambers are much harder to carve away from. As well, when turning back uphill I am really fighting with it. I can do it but it takes far more effort and I'm always having to dangle off the sled far more for simple moves which in my mind makes it less agile.

The sled handling really reminds me of my '08 XP 163, 2.5 which had the old 38" front end. The '13 XM was effortless for downhill carving and turning back uphill.

So.....tell me, do I just need to adjust my riding style more, or will a 36 or 37" front end help? I see kmod and ezryde have pivots in their skid now.....could the tmotion really have made that much difference.??

Any and all opinions are appreciated!!!

 

[xc6rider]

Have you done all your riding with the stabilizer off?

Just wondering if youre running into your uphill fss bottomed or pushed to its limits, without them being setup for running without a stabilizer?

 

[bailer]

Have you done all your riding with the stabilizer off?

Just wondering if youre running into your uphill fss bottomed or pushed to its limits, without them being setup for running without a stabilizer?

I haven't used the stabilizer at all, and the shocks are as loose as they go while still staying in the spring seats.
Just trying to get some responsiveness, that side to side wobble I'm used to...
It always feels good and predictable while sidehilling. It is just the downhill to side and up that is fighting me.

 

[TreeThrasher]

Ya they are less wiggly than an xm for sure. I have both an xm and axys in the stable..the xm is more lithe and easy to initiate. The axys will hold lines on its side with way less effort.

I have been thinking a hinge in the rear end of the ax could be a nice improvement.

Also, in an effort to make it tip side to side easier you likely have the front shock springs too loose. When you pull the sway bar you actually need to stiffen the shocks or they will go through the stroke, bottom and then all bets are off on what she might do..

 

[ullose272]

Try it with the sway bar and an inch or so of threads showing above the front shock collars. Quick turn of counter steer and i can turn back up hill on a dime

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[CO Powder]

I am not sure why people still want to pull the sway bar. I am riding mine bone stock and pulling lines my buddies with XMs are only dreaming of. The sled works, much better than the Doo from what I can see. Messing with it seems like the mistake that is being made...

 

[goforbroke]

downhill turns are where an xm shines. control on steep sidehills are where the axys shines.

when snow is soft, it is butter on the axys. If snow is hard underneath, I fight it more.

 

[Gunk]

i runnung with no sway bar, but tightened up front shocks and have had no problem, i also tightened up the front rear skid shock, to take some of the lift out of the front

 

[NoSoup4U]

downhill turns are where an xm shines. control on steep sidehills are where the axys shines.

when snow is soft, it is butter on the axys. If snow is hard underneath, I fight it more.

Having had an XM for three years I agree with that assessment. A couple things that I have found that helped on the Axys is that I need the front shocks springs a little stiffer than on an XM or Pro RMK. Seems counterintuitive, but it works better for me. Also, I need to have my feet a little further back on the Axys than the XM when initiating the turn.

 

[tdorval]

i runnung with no sway bar, but tightened up front shocks and have had no problem, i also tightened up the front rear skid shock, to take some of the lift out of the front

Tightening the center track shock adds ski lift, not reduces it. It can also increase the amount that the sled tends to trench. Tightening the rear track shock would help a bit with reducing ski lift.

To the OP wish I could help but I don't have near enough miles on mine yet. Installing a 36" front end today just because I'm so used to that width really. But as others have stated running the ski shocks that loose with out the sway bar may be creating issues for you.

 

[sledheader]

If it isn't tippy enough for you, get a 36" front end. I literally ride this thing like a dirtbike. I can do a downhill to sidehill to uphill maneuver without ever taking a foot off either running board. I'm thinking it is your style of riding. A lot of people that I see ride the axys tend to way over ride it. You don't need to "dangle" off of it like you do a pro.

 

[die hard poo]

I recommend a 36" front end if you like the playful, easy to initiate carve of the XM. Thats what the XM comes stock with. I have a 13' pro with a 36" and a stock 39" width Axys and I ride them back to back on the mountain to get a feel of which I prefer. And for me, the 36" is awesome and I will be swapping my Axys over when my budget can afford it. The 36" is just so much more playful, especially going downhill and doing carves.

 

[bailer]

Ya they are less wiggly than an xm for sure. I have both an xm and axys in the stable..the xm is more lithe and easy to initiate. The axys will hold lines on its side with way less effort.

I have been thinking a hinge in the rear end of the ax could be a nice improvement.

Also, in an effort to make it tip side to side easier you likely have the front shock springs too loose. When you pull the sway bar you actually need to stiffen the shocks or they will go through the stroke, bottom and then all bets are off on what she might do..

That makes sense, perhaps I'll try tightening up the shocks again....

 

[bailer]

I recommend a 36" front end if you like the playful, easy to initiate carve of the XM. Thats what the XM comes stock with. I have a 13' pro with a 36" and a stock 39" width Axys and I ride them back to back on the mountain to get a feel of which I prefer. And for me, the 36" is awesome and I will be swapping my Axys over when my budget can afford it. The 36" is just so much more playful, especially going downhill and doing carves.

Yeah it is definately a wider more planted feel going downhill in anything other than bottomless powder.

May have to try a 36". Can't decide between offset spindles or a-arms. Just really hoping I don't do all that and realize it is the pivot rear skid I needed.

Still think I'm gonna love it, just gotta figure out if it is me or the sled that needs adjusting!

 

[ullose272]

Yeah it is definately a wider more planted feel going downhill in anything other than bottomless powder.

May have to try a 36". Can't decide between offset spindles or a-arms. Just really hoping I don't do all that and realize it is the pivot rear skid I needed.

Still think I'm gonna love it, just gotta figure out if it is me or the sled that needs adjusting!

Try an ice age promotion. I lked it on my pro

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[FCR112]

Agree tighten the shocks, imo the swaybar hooked up is the way to go especially if you are running the stock shocks.

 

[ReTodd]

Get rid of the stock skis and get a take off set of trail skis for $100....run it on narrow and it'll be a real hooker?

 

[bailer]

Get rid of the stock skis and get a take off set of trail skis for $100....run it on narrow and it'll be a real hooker?

Funny you say that, it is one big diff. The summit skis are easy to bury the weighted ski and plant to pivot going from downhill.
The Polaris ski always stays on top, which is usually good, just maybe not in this instance.

 

[Kestrel2126]

Any of you guys that are pulling your sway bar want to sell it? I've got an Assault and am going to go to a RMK width arm. I'd like to run sway bar if I can find one for a decent price. Need the links, mounting hardware and bushings. Send me a PM


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[Perk]

I went through this on the pro - so I know exactly where you are at. Hopefully my .02 can help as I spent a lot of time figuring it out.

I did the loosen the front shock, go to the narrow setting, play with the FTS and RTS until you have the best maneuverability without trenching. My thoughts on this are you can make some gains with the shocks etc. but the issue is more related to feel/technique.

The first big breakthrough that I had was when someone here on snowest said I needed to set up the turn/maneuver by pointing the sled/shifting my weight to the downhill side - so actually point the sled downhill, then countersteer and pull it up on the ski you want to have on the uphill side. That gave me a better feel for the pro, but not really a perfect solution as you don't always have room to pull that off. But it felt a lot better and it was my first step toward learning to ride this chassis.

This fall I threw on a kmod 37" front end. Immediately, the sled felt right. For the first time, I could easily put the sled on either ski and ride it for as far as I wanted. I went from feeling like there was a very fine window for the balance point to feeling like the pro had a balance point a mile wide. The Kmod was like training wheels for the pro. I was 100% confident always staying straddled and could turn sidehill when dropping off anything and could turn and point it back uphill on almost any hill. Felt awesome and for the first time in a long time, I felt like my riding skill went to a new level. I've been riding since I was 14 (now 45) and have always considered myself to be a decent rider. When I first got on the pro, I felt less confident because of the same issue you are talking about.

4th ride out this year I jumped on a stock axys - nothing had been done to it. It felt a lot like my pro with the 37" - and I found that I could do everything on it that I could do on the pro - except the axys had more power, and the ergos were way better. After a little seat time and some climbing against an Axys, I came back to town and bought one.

Ok, so I have rambled long enough. Here are the keys that I found and I hope they will help you.

1. Sway bar stays in.
2. You are going to be riding straddled 99% of the time. The only time I get on one running board or the other is if I am in a tight spot and there isn't enough room to ride - and I want to sneak around something.
3. To get the sled up on either side, I found that it is more of a "flick" maneuver. I first put my weight on the downhill side with the bars pointing in my normal direction of travel - then I use the bars as a lever and countersteer, give a little yank with my arms and at the same time that I shift my weight onto my uphill foot - that puts me on the uphill ski immediately. In the past, on other chassis, I could just get on the uphill running board and shift my weight into the mountain with a little counter steer and I was good. With the pro, I needed to do a little less with my total body weight and a little more with my arms - and a little quicker weight shift first to the opposite side and then a quick snap back to my uphill foot.

You will find after you get a feel for this chassis that the move to your opposite foot happens so fast you don't even know that you are doing it. Its just a quick shift to the other foot, then shift back onto your uphill side while countersteering and giving it a quick yank with your arms to get it on the uphill ski. You can practice this on flat ground - I do it all of the time even riding in on the trail. The more you do it, the more confidence you will have in the transition and it won't take long before you don't even think about it.

I found that in almost every situation, I have better control if I am one step back from the footwells. But in downhill situations, I find that it works better for me (for the manuever you are talking about) to bury what will become my uphill foot all the way to the footwell stop.

And one more thing. Many riders that I have talked to say you don't want a riser anymore. I still think it is a personal preference and its all about what feels right to you. For anything I am doing on the Axys, I am good without a riser. But in the downhill situation where I am either wanting to turn it back up, or just transition and go to sidehill, thats where I want the riser. It brings the bars up closer to you and I don't feel so hunched over. I run a 2" - I am 6' tall.

Good luck - when you get the feel you will love the sled.

PS - I run my skis in the narrow setting.