help diagnosing limp mode

[mickyd32]

I was out today for about 10 miles before my 13 RMK 800 started acting up.

First I got the yellow warning light come on,no codes. So I turned back for the yard. Sled still ran good

Got another mile or so taking it easy then the yellow light was on along with a battery icon in the lower left corner of the display.

another 2 miles or so and the sled went into a limp mode like condition. Still seems to idle fine, but at the same time the display stopped working all together. So I cant actually see if there is an error code or anything of the sort

Now the sled will idle fine, but wont rev up, seems like a limp mode condition, and no display

what are the thoughts? I am hoping its something simple like a wire rubbed through. Any help would be awesome

 

[mickyd32]

I saw Murph's post about broken wire off the stator and it was doing the same thing as my sled. I will try running it now that its cooled off and see what it does

 

[ken.gee]

Thanks for the update. Definitely interested in what you find, keep us posted!

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

[mickyd32]

I was able to start the sled up cold and warm it up a little, full range of rpm was there, display is still dead

looking more and more like a stator

 

[Murph]

I was able to start the sled up cold and warm it up a little, full range of rpm was there, display is still dead

looking more and more like a stator

Two easy ways to check:

1) backfeed mfd/ fuel pump circuit through fuel pump prime plug with a strong 12volt battery-- Fire sled up-- and either back probe connector or disconnect AC leads coming out of stator and look for output (remember to have meter set to AC power vs DC)

Or

2) De-Pin headlight/ handwarmer connector (where it comes out of stator) and connect those two AC wires to the Regulator/ Rectifier-- start sled up and see if issues go away...

 

[mickyd32]

I'm going to pull he exhaust and recoil off this afternoon. If it is a broken wire in there, can the stator be replaced on these without pulling the block out?

 

[ak]

Yes

 

[Murph]

With engine in chassis-- hardest part is removing two lower bolts from recoil housing. Do not reinstall lower bolts for reassembly

WPS distributes an SPI stator that retails for $219-- available at most all snowmobile shops/dealers.


Stator replacement

1-Pull muffler (pipe can stay on)
2-Pull recoil housing
3-Need a flywheel puller (you can rent an A/C puller from O'Reilly Auto Parts part numbe 67100-- us three bolts from stator housing)
4- three bolts hold on stator, 4 bolts hold on two pickups (pay close attention to rear pickup wire routing inside housing to avoid contact with spinning flywheel)
5- unplug stator on clutch side

 

[mickyd32]

I was able to get everything off without pulling the block

Removed the pipe and such. Then removed the piece of frame exhaust mounts to, removed exhaust side motor mount bolts, pryed up motor by motor strap and wedged there, removed recoil

Currently waiting in the right puller tube dropped off