When you guys are putting the head bolts back on, are you sealing them with RTV? I noticed the factory had some on and around the flanges of the heads bolts when I removed them to install a PA head.
Head Bolt Install
- Thread starter Seabass152
- Start date
I used blue Loctite on threads and pipe dope on the flange of head bolt.
yes polaris uses white sealer on their bolts.
yes polaris uses white sealer on their bolts.
hmm
Been a while since I got head, but I'd say a good seal is the way to go....
Been a while since I got head, but I'd say a good seal is the way to go....
three bond 1194...
My mechanic puts a generous dab completely around the bolt about 4 mm down from the head of the bolt on the non machined area...tighten to seat...then torque tighten to spec's (wipe off excess)
I would caution against any thread locking compound..it leaves a residue on in the cyl channels and changes the torque response over time...same problem guys get when they end up with some coolant down in those holes (heat creates expansion and massive pressure results are head bolts fail)...once again my meticulous and very talented mechanic even completely cleans the threads prior to the re-install when doing this change or work on the head.
Heat soak and test for cooling leaking and re-torque or double check your torque.
Guys also lean the sled over so the coolant bottle is on the high side or highest point on the sled. Warm it up and with the track elevated run your buggy in both forward and also in reverse. This seems to be a stop gap for getting a coolant trap bubble so that you won't get a problem when you get out riding. (feel both sides of your coolers in the back for consistent heat...that is also a sign of trouble if there is missing heat from one side or the other at the shop)
My mechanic puts a generous dab completely around the bolt about 4 mm down from the head of the bolt on the non machined area...tighten to seat...then torque tighten to spec's (wipe off excess)
I would caution against any thread locking compound..it leaves a residue on in the cyl channels and changes the torque response over time...same problem guys get when they end up with some coolant down in those holes (heat creates expansion and massive pressure results are head bolts fail)...once again my meticulous and very talented mechanic even completely cleans the threads prior to the re-install when doing this change or work on the head.
Heat soak and test for cooling leaking and re-torque or double check your torque.
Guys also lean the sled over so the coolant bottle is on the high side or highest point on the sled. Warm it up and with the track elevated run your buggy in both forward and also in reverse. This seems to be a stop gap for getting a coolant trap bubble so that you won't get a problem when you get out riding. (feel both sides of your coolers in the back for consistent heat...that is also a sign of trouble if there is missing heat from one side or the other at the shop)
I put mine back together with none, and it doesn't leak.
Raise the front end sled as high as you can.
drain the coolent from the resivoir bottle,I use a hand pump if you drain the bottle.The coolent level will be lower than the cylinders.
remove thermostat housing with hose attached, move to the side leaving it as high as possible.
remove spark plugs,det sensor,then head bolts,then head.
I clean everthing ,chase threads with tap, clean cylinders.
take a dab of grease on your finger, dab each o ring groove
in a four corner patern. the grease holds the O rings in place.
move all of your o rings over to the new head.
Set inner and outter O rings on the cylinders, set head on making sure not to move O rings. put bolts in by fingers, attach thermostsat and det sensor.
tighten bolts, torque the bolts, Fill with coolent.
run a couple heat soaks, check for leaks, and coolent moving through the cooling system. retorque all bolts.
The less coolent you drain. the less trouble you will have with air bubbles.
Hope this helps alittle
H
High Velocity
Well-known member
One thing not mentioned yet : when refilling with coolant (while front end is raised at least 2-3 ft), open small bleed screw on the thermostat housing ( 5/16" or 8 mm socket) until coolant flows out of the bleed screw. Close bleed screw and top up coolant.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
Sent from my iPhone when I should be sledding.
Called Brad ( 1200 psi & maker of the PA head ) today and asked about using a sealer on the bolts. He said that he does not use any and never has any leaks. I would think he would know and recommend it if it was necessary. I have installed 2 of his heads without any sealant and do not have any leaks. I would say that if you have not done the head yet the extra precaution would be worth it, but since mine are already done I am not going to remove them to do it. If it were necessary he would tell you to do it in his install instructions, which he does not.
